Your P4 track looks very good Dave. But I'm more interested in those little pots you have used for holding the track down. I use them for paint indoors so if you have a couple spare, please bring them with you next time!

Certainly a masterclass in track formations there in what you have laid so far! Nice diamond, 3-way and slip.

Out of curiosity which PVA make did you go for? I must admit I like the Early Learning Centre kids pva! Useful tip with the pins aligning things.

Waay to go, Dave, but I hope you've got the height of the flexi and that ply'n'rivet aligned...

Your P4 track looks very good Dave. But I'm more interested in those little pots you have used for holding the track down. I use them for paint indoors so if you have a couple spare, please bring them with you next time!

Coach, I also use them for paint, but I'll see if there's a few spare!

Waay to go, Dave, but I hope you've got the height of the flexi and that ply'n'rivet aligned...

Good point. According to my measurements there's a 0.1 mm difference in height, with the flexi-track being the higher. You may notice the strips of masking tape across the formation in some places. This is where ply pointwork meets plastic plain track and by chance is 0.1 mm thick. Hopefully this will overcome the problem and result in a nice smooth transition. (I've checked with some loose track and it does appear to work.)

Dave.

No-one's commented on the red hatched areas visible on the underlay. In case you're wondering - they mark the position of obstructions under the boards (Tortoise motor mounting plates, etc.) to be avoided when fitting droppers to the track.

Dave.

No-one's commented on the red hatched areas visible on the underlay. In case you're wondering - they mark the position of obstructions under the boards (Tortoise motor mounting plates, etc.) to be avoided when fitting droppers to the track.

We took such design aspects as granted, Dave....

Are you fishplating 'as you go' (Exacto) or later?

Dave,

Its a relief to know you have opted for the plywood sleeper type for your pointwork formations,

I used C+L plastic chairs but had to build the formation onto cork cut to shape so that i could permanantly fix in place then transfare it to the baseboard.

The reasoning here being that if i aproached it the way you have done the sleepers would curl up at the ends resulting in gauge narrowing but this won't happen with plywood.

Back in the early days i would construct the pointwork on the table top firstly by temporarily fixing polethene over the template and using prit stick to fix in place the sleepers and away you go fixing the chairs in place and to thread the rail and by the time you transfare to the baseboard the pointwork has gone out of gauge.

I wonder how many people have been down that rd.

cheers Dave, keep up the good work,its looking superb,my common sense prevail.

We took such design aspects as granted, Dave....

 

Are you fishplating 'as you go' (Exacto) or later?

All fishplates will be purely cosmetic and I plan to add them later, It looks like if the Exacto one are cut in half thet can be fitted where there are rail gaps. Otherwise I think etched brass ones soldered or glued in place should do.

Dave.

Its a relief to know you have opted for the plywood sleeper type for your pointwork formations,

I used C+L plastic chairs but had to build the formation onto cork cut to shape so that i could permanantly fix in place then transfare it to the baseboard.

The reasoning here being that if i aproached it the way you have done the sleepers would curl up at the ends resulting in gauge narrowing but this won't happen with plywood.

Interesting to hear of that, it would explain why Exactoscale went for full height sleepering in their kits perhaps? I know the C+L flexitrack has a tenancy to be a little narrow to gauge even if you do try and lay it flat.

You can compromise with plastic chairs and ply sleepers quite nicely but the rivets do allow tweaking of complex formations.