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brian335

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I'm currently building an O Gauge David Andrew kit of a Castle Class loco, having decided to go for 4078 Pembroke Castle which just happens to be near where I used to live. This may be a bit ambitious as this is my first major kit building project. I don't happen to know much about trains or kit building (or this forum for that matter - should this be a blog or just a series of questions on the forum?) so I'm hoping for some constructive advice/ comments as I go.

 

On the advice of friends, I am building the tender first, a Hawksworth 4,000 gallon tender which was allocated to the engine on 23/12/1955.

 

I have already run into a couple of problems - mainly to do with soldering. I am using a Weller 40W but the tip keeps turning black. I then file it back to the copper and the process repeats. I have now wired it though a dimmer switch, thinking that maybe it was getting too hot (I could set fire to things with it!) and that seems to have reduced the problem. My other soldering irons are an 18 W and a temperature controlled one, both fine for electrical soldering but not much use for this game. Any suggestions as to alternatives gratefully received - is a resistance soldering unit a good idea?

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"should this be a blog or just a series of questions on the forum?"

 

I had the same question when I started and I think the answer is - do both!

 

Your question about soldering will probably get more responses, if you post it in the 'Skills and Knowledge Centre' part of the forums under 'Kits and Scratchbuilding'

 

On the other hand, it will be interesting to watch your model develop through a series of Blog entries.  I always enjoy seeing how other people find solutions to the various problems that arise.

 

Re. your tip problem - it's not a good idea to file tips, as they are usually iron coated.  The main thing is to keep a fresh coating of solder on the tip (tinned) at all times.  Reducing the temperature, when not actually in use, does help reduce oxidation.  

 

I use a temperature controlled iron (60W) and find it good for modelling.  You need the power to transfer heat to the component quickly without 'cooking' everything.  I set to about 350C for working and drop to 200C (just enough to keep the tinning melted) between use.  This keeps the tip in good condition for a long time.

 

Mike 

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For cleaning the tip don't forget the little sponge pad that comes with lots of soldering iron sets. Soak this in water and just rub the tip on it - makes a lovely noise, lots of steam (sound familiar?), but does the job. My other extremely naughty habit is to dip the tip into the pot of flux which works a treat!

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Thanks guys,

 

Mike,

The 60W temperature controlled iron sounds interesting, what make is it please?

 

KH1,

Thanks, the sponge is always wet but dipping the iron in the flux sounds very naughty. Just the thought of breating in vapourised phosphoric acid brings tears to my eyes.

 

I must get some pictures up here.

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Mike,

Thanks, my temperature controlled iron is a less powerful Maplins effort and while it still works, it has on occasion not done so. I think for the moment I have now all the info / opinions I need on soldering from here and the forum, so I will move on with some photos of progress so far.

 

Ok, hit a brick wall on that one. Do I put them in a gallery first and link from / to there?

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Doesn't brass look beautiful - seems such a pity to paint these models!

 

Of course, in 0-gauge you have so much more metal to heat when soldering - twice the linear dimensions means 8 times the volume.  Even in 00, I sometimes resort to using a small 'cook's' blowtorch, to add a little extra heat for soldering seams.

 

Not sure why you had a problem loading pics - I put them straight into my blog.  The uploader does, however, seem to cause problem occasionally.

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