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BGM - 4


KH1

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blog-0431515001417901772.jpgFinished the last bits of detailing so it was time for a bit of paint which was pretty easy as this kit splits into really useful sections. After a coat of grey primer, I started with the frames, a tin of Humbrol track dirt, an old stiff brush and plenty of talcum powder. Being rather taken by the results I carried on but swapped to some olive green. For someone who has been proudly spraying locos for quite some time going back to a brush was quite a shock for me but really pleased with the results. The technique is more akin to dry brushing really with a small amount of paint being taken up from a palette then dunked in talc and then sort of stippled onto the model. No brush marks result just a lovely, almost pre weathered matt finish. See for yourself;

 

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After a not terribly necessary coat of matt varnish couplings were fitted and I ran up some USA letters and numbers. 'Ran up on the computer' - these are words that normally cause an impending sense of doom in me when I read it in articles. All to often the results are bland and just look completely wrong with just a standard font which is completely inappropriate. Well not here (I hope!). I used the example at the lovely Tacot des Lacs in France as a guide, found a font that looked promising and then spent ages squishing, squashing, adding bits, and removing bits in PhotoShop. Final touch were some cab curtains made from paint soaked tissue and held up with paper straps. There were some etched straps in the kit but found these impossible to use. So here we have a rather fine model;

 

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No there is just one problem - the bloody thing ( can I say bloody? Yes I think I can. Bloody, Bloody, Bloody!), just doesn't work!. It rolled along just fine with the wheels connected and even when I fitted the jack shaft rods but when I fitted the motor it keeps going out of quarter and jamming. The problem seems to be that the cranks are rotating on the axles and in act one has not fallen off completely. They are meant to be a push fit and I have been really careful and they have only been put on once so pretty annoying. I did try to fix the one that came off with some Loctite 603 I have but this has not done the trick at all and just came off again. Am considering tying to pack out the axles by super gluing some thin paper around the ends in an attempt to get more grip. Has anyone got any other suggestions? Am going to put it down for a bit to cool off and have a look at something else.

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  • RMweb Premium

Ah, the last photo is just to show another attempt to get a bit more weight into the body with lead shot looking a lot like caviar! Have also noticed that on the final shots of the completed loco the cranks are all over the place. This is effect and not cause of the poor running as the rear crank on the other side is hanging off which also explains why you have pictures of just the one side!

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Unfortunately, I don't think there is enough meat on them to drill through sideways which otherwise would be a good solution. I have thought about cutting a slot in the end of the axle and then making a saw cut across the crank into which a bit of metal rod would fit. Other more drastic solution would be to make up a pair of cranks in brass, replace the axle with a brass rod and solder them on. Two problems though, is that this would mean disturbing the main gearwheel and the wheels which so far have behaved nicely, and secondly, I am not sure I could make the cranks accurately enough.

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I've just built this kit, and ran into precisely the same problem - the cranks don't hold the axles tightly enough, especially the crankshaft cranks, which take a lot of torque from the driven axle cranks.

 

I think I have found a solution - the one CA glue that will stick most anything, including Delrin gears to metal! It's from the USA, and is called Dr. Mike's. It's amazing stuff, you can leave the bottle open on the workbench for at least 6 months!

 

It's available in the UK from Paul at EDM, www.ngtrains.com (usual disclaimer).

 

I've used it on all six cranks on the BGM. Although it sticks pretty well instantly, I left it 24 hours to cure, and so far so good, it runs nicely. I haven't yet run it for more than a few minutes, tho' :-)

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Well I am glad it is not just me! Thanks for the tip, have heard of this glue but never met it as yet. One thing that I have decided to do is to  turn the jack shaft into two independent stubs - will saw in two then solder a washer behind the frames to secure them. Am thinking that there is no reason they need to be connected and any discrepancy in the quartering here is just putting extra strain on the rear crank. Will  update in due course.

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That's a thought, although I've noticed that with only one crankshaft rod connected there is a crucial point where the rod has to decide whether to follow the coupling rod or reverse, and it's not always the one you want! Might be worth checking with only one crankshaft rod connected before you start sawing

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  • RMweb Premium

Sounds like you've had the same problem as me, with the cranks actually splitting and loosing their grip. Mine were a very tight fit and certainly didn't need any Loctite assistance!

A quick call/email to Neil Sayer is the way to go, he is very helpful, and quickly sent me some replacement cranks.

Cheers, Dave.

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I did, in fact, send that Email a couple of weeks ago and a new set of cranks arrived very speedily - Thank You, Neil! I have to shamefully admit that I have done nothing with them as yet but it is well up there on my to do list.

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