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Urie S15 - achieving the right ride height (or not)


Barry Ten

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Previously on S15..,

 

I'd struggled to get the chassis and body to play nicely together, with a whopping gap between the top of the cylinders and the underside of the footplate. After much examination of various photos - of both the prototype and other DJH models - I decided that the cylinders are correct(ish) but that body has to be lowered by about 1mm. The only problem with that is that something - either brass or white metal has to go.,,

 

Anyway, on with today's installment:

 

After a gargantuan session of filing, hacking, grinding and more swearing than Al Swearengen on a bad day, I've reached the point where the footplate of the S15 is sitting in an improved relationship with the chassis, although I still reckon it could do with being at least half a mm lower. But I think this is as far as I'll take it, as I don't want to carve away any more white metal from the underside of the footplate (thereby weakening it), or file much more out of the chassis. Sitting next to Hornby's exquisite N15, the match between footplate, boiler top and the top of the spectacle plate is acceptably close for my purposes.

 

blogentry-6720-0-40270800-1425680039.jpg

 

Perhaps the biggest aid was achieving a better fit of the motion bracket. There are shallow notches in the chassis sides to enable it to sit flush with the top of the chassis, but they're far too shallow, so if you're not careful the bracket will sit too high, forcing the footplate up at that point. I had to file much deeper notches, no easy task given the thickness of the brass.

 

The good news is that despite all this brutal ironmongery, the chassis is still performing beautifully, so I'm rapidly running out of excuses not to tackle the valve gear.

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  • RMweb Gold

Cylinders and slidebars fully assembled, and test mounted - no clearance issues with front bogie. But now I've hit the next snag, in that the crosshead assembly requires an M1 screw to go through the full thickness of the white metal crosshead, plus two additional layers of etch - and the supplied screws are at least an "etch" thickness too short. Bah! If you're going to supply something, why not check it's the right specification for the job? If the M1 screw had been supplied over-length, the modeller could always trim it slightly, but now I'll have to source my own screws.

 

If loco kit building is in decline, it won't be because people aren;'t prepared to have a go - it's because of this kind of half-hearted approach to supplying the right parts. Another bugbear is to supply exactly the right number of small, fiddly nuts and bolts and no spares, whereas adding one or two to the pack surely wouldn't impact measurably on the price.

 

I'll give DJH the benefit of the doubt again because this is a very old production run of the S15, and they may have improved the parts since this example was boxed.

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After years of struggling with kits, I gave up. I was convinced that the problem was with me, "I must be useless" I thought. It was when I dabbled with some Japanese RC buggies that I realised the problem. For some reason Japan, the land that developed quality (see Deeming, Ishikawa et al) had worked out that it was better to put everything you need into the kit. In other words a "Kit" is everything you need, including screws, nuts and perhaps the screw driver and spanner. Even Ikea have worked this out.

 

Since then I have regarded model railway "kits" as scratch-builders aids. In that here is a collection of bits that maybe useful for building a model of something. Since then I have been quite happy as I assume that not will the kit be incomplete but also quite often inaccurate, I have now managed to produce several locomotives that work.

 

I agree with you, some kit manufacturers need a kick up the jacsky. Kits should be easy, logical, go together like a .... radio control buggy from Japan, or a chair from Ikea.

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  • RMweb Gold

In my case, it's dabbling with Far Eastern plastic model aircraft kits, which just exude quality, and go together like a charm. No need to improvise parts, puzzle over instructions, fill the swear box - just crack on and build the bl**dy thing.

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