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Class 50 scratchbuild 6

sleeper

Entry posted by sleeper

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I've fitted the Shawplan etched brass window frames, these are a replacement for the ones on the Lima version which I gather are a little on the thick side, Some of you may have encountered this at some time!

Surprisingly these fitted almost exactly into the space between the corner stanchions, I guess the drawing I worked from must have been replicated from a Lima model because the chassis I've used is a Lima one and that fitted, or rather the sides cut from the drawing fitted the Lima chassis too.

 

blogentry-15272-0-21974700-1437566527.jpg

 

So I've spent some time fettling various bits, one mistake I made right at the start but which didn't become obvious until now is that one end was attached to the sides lower down than the other end, by some 1.5mm, the resultant gap under the windscreen frames has had to be built up with strips of card and then reshaped.

It wasn't possible to remove a corresponding amount of material from the bottom of the panel as that would have made the lights too low, so it has had to remain, it's not like anyone would view it from both ends, it's just that I know it's there.

I have attached the roof to the body, after careful consideration to make sure I wasn't restricting my access anywhere. I used a contact adhesive for this to make sure it was firmly bonded because the joint between has to be filled as the sides and roof on this loco are all in one and I didn't want any cracks appearing in the future.

Some way back in this post there was some discussion as to what treatment to give the card to firm it up, well I was somewhat concerned that the Halfords red primer I intended to use might act on the various glues I'd used and soften them to the point where the whole thing fell apart. I used one of the sides I'd previously stuck together and painted to test for reactions. The layers separated! I'd used a pritt stick type of glue to bond these and consequently it broke down when in contact with the Halfords paint, which I suspect might be water bound as there's no real solvent fumes when sprayed. So I coated the painted side of the test piece with a hair lacquer spray, no reaction, then I sprayed it with primer, no reaction, bingo! that's the way to go.

A few coats of hair lacquer and a good coat of primer, produced this.

 

blogentry-15272-0-84438900-1437566545.jpg

 

I'm now filling and rubbing down ready for the top coat. Sorry this post has been all gabble and few photos but this stage is a lot of labour with little to show for it.

 

More soon

 

Roly

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Horsetan

Horsetan 19,216

Posted

I had a look at the front view of the headcode box here: http://www.enuii.com/vulcan_foundry/photographs/diesel_survivors/50044.jpg

 

Might the one on your model be a bit low in the sense that it needs a deeper "face", or is that just the camera angle?

 

The roof has quite a bit of a "hump" throughout its length too, and looks like its apex is higher than the top of the headcode box, rather than the other way round: http://www.docbrown.info/docspics/southwest/OxfordTrip/P7036054.jpg

sleeper

sleeper 251

Posted

yes you're right, the headcode box should be deeper,  there are still a couple of layers to be added to the face so that the box face ends slightly in front of the roof front edge, this will make it look deeper.too.

I haven't got the roof quite right, it too should be slightly deeper, although from all the photos I've studied it is pretty straight along it's length, with no 'hump' in the middle.

When I was sanding it to shape I stuck two halves of a lolly stick type wooden spatula on to the face of a length of batten to butt the side of the roof blank to, the idea being that I then couldn't get carried away and take too much material off the width because the sanding block was running along the edge of the batten. Eventually though this also proved to be too wide,

I had glued hand cut spacers across the inside the body to brace the structure, I'd made these too wide, forcing the sides out slightly, so after removing them the roof was 2mm wider than the sides, it also looked too high so I cut a couple of layers away from the base of the roof, but unfortunately about four came away in the levelling up process and so the result is as you now see it.

The roof will be left as it is, it's too late to change it now, but thanks for the observations, they serve to make you sit up and think, regrettably there have been too few comments throughout this blog

Horsetan

Horsetan 19,216

Posted

By "hump", I meant the apex of the roof. The high point is above the top of the headcode box.

 

Your "50" hasn't elicited much comment, probably because everyone else is happy with their Lima or Hornby one and don't see the need to build one out of card....

sleeper

sleeper 251

Posted

yeah got your meaning now, yes, the roof does have a pronounced 'hump' along it's length. Looking square on mine has that too but not so pronounced. Because of the unfortunate loss of two of the layers when I reduced the height of the roof it's maybe not so evident as on the Hornby or Lima ones.

I've been working from rather inaccurate drawings and corner view photos and having never seen a RTR version I don't know how much 'out' my roof is compared to the prototype. The profile I made for shaping it was taken from the drawing I had and apart from the lack of depth it has followed the contour fairly accurately.

My camera isn't the best at close ups so I doubt a close up, side on, shot would be clear enough to show the roof"s profile. The body's in the paint shop at the moment but when it's done I'll see if I can get a good image. 

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