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A good reason for hating painting


Dad-1

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Often when I say I hate painting I get a reply saying they like it as it starts to bring a model to life. Well I STILL

hate painting !! All that work, making, modifying, sits there with great promise ...... and can be ruined with a

poor application of paint. Such a happening simply knocks the enthusiasm out of me as is happening today.

Here was/is my Parkside Dundas Southern BY Utility van, sitting in it's malachite green (Humbrol 2 with added

blue)

blogentry-7874-0-39935300-1442587186_thumb.jpg

 

Having kept the guards chimney I needed to add orangy panels to each top corner and guards entrance door.

Well a new tin of Humbrol Matt 82 orange was opened - the new sludge variety. Stirred very thoroughly and then

some more, but the sludge contents didn't mellow into a paint.

I tried using a nice small brush, but the paint wouldn't flow, didn't cover well & dried as I looked at it !!. Believe me

it looks much worse in real life than the picture shows.

blogentry-7874-0-41732600-1442587574_thumb.jpg

 

What to do !! I hate Humbrol current quality, or should I say lack off. This is not the first trouble I've had in the last few

years. Like just putting a matt varnish on plasticard, it was a thick sludge when opened & stirred. It only took a short

while to realise it just wasn't going to work, so I stopped & have yet to return to this building. Back 20-30 years ago I

had few if any problems with Humbrol paints used on my exhibition quality aircraft models.

blogentry-7874-0-24382600-1442587928_thumb.jpg

 

Dad-1

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I agree that Humbrol ain't what it was, but I don't have problems with the stuff myself. If a new tin is "sludge", then it has to be stirred until it is broken up and dissolved completely. I then add a small weight of some kind (a spare screw or nut or similar), replace the lid and then shake for a minuter or two. The theory behind this is that if it works for aerosols, then it should work for Humbrol - and it does! It may also be necessary to add a drop or two of thinners - cheap white spirit will do. All of this does take a bit of time, but no more than 3 -4 minutes or so.

 

You could try other paints - Phoenix/Precision or whatever they are called now are quite good. Revell is pretty awful - I avoid it like the plague - and I don't like acrylics very much either. I haven't tried the expensive stuff like Vallejo or Citadel.

 

You should be able to redeem your orange patches by subjecting your tin to the above treatment and applying a new coat over the old. 

 

Hope this is of use.

 

Regards

 

David C

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Hi David C

 

I do stir to excess but I'm thinking of adding a touch of IPA to the tin, if it dosen't work then I can always bin it. My stirring

implement is a small electrical screwdriver that has a ring worn into the shaft where it's rubbed it's way around 100's

of tins of paint, even the blade is showing signs of wear, a wonder I've not worn a hole through some tins !!

 

I'd not thought about adding a heavy agitator to rattle around inside. I wonder if this paint is thin enough to allow

enough movement to work, when I said sludge I really meant sludge. One tin I was working with I dipped the tip

of my brush into my thinners cleaning pot to thin the next brush full, just touched the paint top which was touched

as I could see the reflection change, yet the brush didn't pick up any paint. The stuff simply won't flow. Another example of non-flow is I have needed to rotate a brush as I worked otherwise a deposit (blob) on the side wouldn't

flow into the bristles.

 

This orange is going on thick, the only way to cover anything is to stipple, a brush stroke just moves paint off the surface. I could sand back, but in such a small sunken corner between wagon frames & roof that is going to be

difficult !!

 

I'm used to painting by brush, mostly aircraft, here is an example :-

 

A Varsity T.1 made from a Vacformed kit

 

Dad-1

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