As you all know, in my other blog, I found a previously unfinished 4mm version of a Johnson 1P in the attic stored away and decided to finish it......

Now that I`ve moved into 7mm modelling, but entirely GWR, I had been bitten with an LMS bug and decided to investigate the Slaters 7mm version. There were no real negative comments about such a kit that I could find, and so, I sold some stock to fund the purchase.

The Slaters 7mm Johnson 1P kit dates from the mid 1980`s. so it is`nt a, so called, state of the art kit. Having said that, it is supplied as a `complete kit` so no extras are needed.
It`s not supplied with a Belpair boilered option , but I`m happy to build her as an LMS 1930`s push-pull version in beautiful all black with intermediate passenger livery and a few polished brass bits!!!!

She will be No 1260 based at Bedford , my home town.

Way back in the early 1980`s I discovered for myself at least that sprung hornblocks provided a most reliable way of improving loco performance whereby all wheels are on the track despite any track irregularities. I think it also maximises electrical pickup provided the right type of pickups are fitted. I have carried this preference forward into 7mm construction. I also like the idea of using the loco coupling rods as a jig for establishing accurate axle and hornblock alignment at all times which in turn eliminates all those hours wasted trying to find out why a chassis binds or works in one direction better than the other.....for me at least it means I can get it right everytime.....

With this slaters kit,however, I was unable to follow this tried and tested method in full. The kit makes up into a fully sprung system, but the hornblocks are etched foldup tabs as part of the chassis etchings and do not have any form of screw adjustment to ride height either....... so new territory for me ......

I decided to begin with making the rear bogie as a way of assessing the kits accuracy and also discover any failings on my part in making up the Slaters hornblocks

The bogie hornblocks differ from the main chassis as the hornblocks are assembled by soldering on the axle box guides as seperate units

However, if you take your time at each stage and read the instructions making sure everything moves freely with NO SLOP, you will find few problems that can`t be solved with a minimum of fettling.

I think it makes up into a very clever designed sprung bogie mechanism. with both axles at 90degrees to the chassis with no lateral axle movement. A very free running set up.

I opted for black foam between the two brass washers instead of the plasticard provided as an extra level of adjustment.

The only problem encountered was a wrong drill size written in the instructions.

So... on to the main chassis fret..............

As already mentioned, the hornguides are attached to the chassis etch and the instructions suggested folding and soldering these first before bending the main chassis into its U shape.

I did`nt feel this suited me at all and chose another way..........

I opted to fold the chassis sides first and then fold up the hornblocks as there is plenty of room between the frames to solder easily. I had also at this stage made up the coupling rods to check on the accuracy by lining them up with the fixed spring stop etch...... all looked to be accurate.....

After reaming the axle boxes and preparing the main drivers I assembled the coupling rods and was amazed and pleased that the chassis ran absolutely faultlessly with no fettling of the rods required. No slop at all and a very free running design.

Still plenty of detail to be added later on but now I have a solid chassis to work with I will now proceed with the loco body and make sure every thing lines up.......

These are my preferred sprung hornblocks, although the plastic Slaters have been upgraded and are not adjustable...

I prefer to make coupling rods first and then after cutting out the frames use them with a Metalsmiths axle jig to solder everything in place........