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Whitechapel's Firebox LED


jamesg

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It's been a few weeks since the last entry and not much has happened on the layout. I just thought I'd share a picture of terrier 'Whitechapel' on a test track with the firebox LED lit. It's a nice novelty, but the colour isn't quite right and a flickering effect would be more realistic. It's bright enough to light some of the detail in the cab; I might add a crew as well.

 

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The next job will be rebuilding the control panel to the right of the controller. This has more controls than the one on the left, which pictured in its current state here.

 

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In addition to more 'levers', the panel on the right has a switch for selecting a programming track connected by banana plugs.

 

Here's a photograph showing how the LED was fitted.

 

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Yes, I've added it to the original post.  The decoder is hard wired and fits into the smokebox, making the shell easy to remove.  I intend to run the locomotive on DCC only, but the LED will be lit when travelling forwards on DC power.

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That's excellent thanks, I have added a lot of detail to my Terriers, including things you can't see, but have never added a firebox light I may have to try this for myself, All mine are also DCC with the decoder in the smoke box.

 

Gary

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Does your decoder for DCC use have a firebox flicker function output? Most do and that will help create the flicker. Also, try an orange LED instead of red. They look the business I reckon. DCC Concepts do a range of these LEDs I have used before and they are most satisfactory.

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The decoder is a basic Hornby X9659 4 pin decoder, chosen because I could be sure of fitting it into the locomotive.  I think it's possible to get 'candle effect' LEDs that flicker on their own, I have no idea how they work, or if they'd be anything like a decoder effect.

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I have used a candle effect LED in a station building fireplace - they can be acquired very cheaply from Poundland (other cheap available) in packs of three "flameless tealights" - they run off a 3V button cell from memory, and I blew one up while figuring out the appropriate resistor, but at £1 for 3, that wasn't the end of the world! That being said, a loco firebox tends to be a nice, big, hot fire (hopefully!) so the flickering effect is reduced, if it is there at all. Depending on how hard the loco is being worked, I would suggest that a fairly constant light from yellowy-white (not working hard) to bright "warm white" if barking up a steep hill would probably suit best.

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