Hello again

Just to prove that I am still alive, here's my first post to my new blog - here's hoping that it's all working as it should. I have to confess a certain aura of the Luddite when learning how to conform to the new order; I find it quite complex compared to the previous RMWeb but I'm sure that I'll get used to it in time.

I've decided to blog my "locomotives" thread and "layout" thread separately; "Southwich" is still very much alive but somewhat denuded since I decided that my modelling skills have improved since building Phase 1, deciding that I couldn't live with what I'd already built and tearing some of it back to the boards. I'll start the "layout" blog, er, when I start the layout again

Right, back to traction then My current project is 37 100 in early-to-mid-1980s condition in Rail Blue with deleted water tank and rebuilt No.2 nose end. I'm using a Lima splitty 37 shell as a basis (a personal challenge, deciding that I wanted to see if the Lima offering could be fettled to stand alongside my Gen-2 Bachmann 37/0 without being outclassed). It will be mounted on a much-modified ViTrains chassis with customised lighting and - hopefully - lowered on its bogies by 1.5mm. Current progress has seen much filler, Microstrip and Shawplan etched detail added; the unique No.2 end (with non-standard marker lamp positions) currently looks like this (cruelly enlarged and not yet finish-sanded or cleaned-up):

37 100 was an oddball in a number of ways, for a number of years; it carried Rail Blue into late-1990 (with the late-80s addition of an orange cantrail stripe), and also managed to avoid being fitted with HI headlights until it was repainted Triple Grey.

Thanks to Brian Hanson for his Fotopic album of images of 37 100, taken at Barrow Hill prior to the HNRC 973xx rebuild - it has been of much help.

Finally (for now), I highly recommend Squadron Green Putty, a model filler sold ready-mixed in a tube. It has an almost perfect consistency, dries completely in about 30mins and sands beautifully. It's not really strong enough to fill deep gaps and holes (although I got away with filling the original lamp apertures on the Lima shell with it) - I'd still recommend Milliput Superfine White for those areas.