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A CR 323 class part 3, chassis


Dave John

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Next step is to get on with some chassis building.

 

 

Drummond designed these engines with a 7’6 + 8’9 wheelbase. This layout proved successful and was repeated on a number of subsequent designs. I therefore started with a set of Gibson milled frames for the 782 class, these are solid and of a heavier brass than normally found in etch kits.

 

 

First things first. A set of coupling rods. These are the Gibson universal etch, soldered up so that the fluted parts go to the inside creating plain rods.

 

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Basic frames made up. The spacers are double sided copperclad, the strong glass fibre type. I didn’t include a vertical spacer, solder it all up vertical and it stays like that, one advantage of the thicker Gibson frames. The 323s were long at the rear, 8’ 8 3/4 “ from rear axle cl to buffer face.  These frames have been extended to suit, a bit more than needed so I can trim them to the rear of the buffer beam when the footplate is made up. Brake hangers are 1 mm od brass tube, makes the brakes an easier fit later.

 

I have given it a coat of black, I know a lot will come off but so long as the areas behind the wheels stay on I’ll be happy.

 

 

 

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A running chassis. All very conventional with a simple compensation beam. The plunger pickups are 1mm brass rod in a brass tube with a 9 thou guitar string spring. I have had issues with the Gibson style plungers in the past and if they go wrong its a devil of a job getting at them. This way they can be removed and replaced easily. Carbon brushes might be better, if I could think of a way of making them. High level gearbox and a Chinese motor, final position to be worked out later.

 

 

 

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Of course the question is does it run? A bit of video of it scuttling back and forth through pointwork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Footplate next.

Edited by Dave John
pics replaced

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3 Comments


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Very nice work and thanks very much for the guitar string tip - don't know why I haven't thought of that myself. (Ernie Ball ?)

 

Snitzl

Edited by snitzl
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Yep, its the Ernie Ball ones I am using. They are plated ( nickel ?) so they take solder better and are less prone to rust than basic spring steel. 

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Thanks for showing these different steps of the build, Dave, it's useful for those of us not experienced with chassis building. 

 

I understand why the porter looks worried towards the end of the video!

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