In order to make the tracks precise standard spacing at the end of the board, I used two double track level crossings, one at either end of the piece I was constructing. The level crossings, as the track, were mounted on plywood with the softwood supports

The construction method was as follows:

1.   Make the softwood support. Drill holes and install furniture nuts on one side

2.   Bolt the supports to the jigs (the level crossing pieces)

3.       Cut the plywood for the piece constructed. Drill pilot holes (1mm) in the corners to nail the plywood to the softwood support (don’t nail in yet)

4.       Place the plywood on top of the supports (which are connected to the crossings), and lay the tracks between the two level crossings  -fix the track in place with rail joiners

5.        Nail down the track to the plywood.(you need to slide a softwood strip under very close to where you are nailing in the track pin to stop the plywood bouncing, don’t put it directly under otherwise the pin will go into it.

6.       Nail the plywood down to the softwood strips on which it sits

7.       Unbolt from the level crossings. Piece is now complete.

Take care – as the track pins sharply protrude out of the bottom of the plywood. You make wish to glue some thick cardboard over them, otherwise you may scratch your hands when trying to fit the bolt in during assembly

The above method is for settrack.

For flexitrack, I also found that the rails needed to be secured more robustly at the board ends. The was the case for curves - in order to keep the curvature (I later built 3rd and 4th radius bends, but used flexitrack for the 4th radius as I didn't have any set track and it was quite expensive to buy. It was also necessary for straights - especially short ones, as somtimes when disconnecting the board pieces, the rail joiner pulled the rail along its length (i.e. perpendicular to the sleepers, slipping through the chairs) .

Initially I fixed the rails by removing one plastic sleeper, replacing it with a thin pcb sleeper and soldering the rails. However, I discovered sometimes during assembly or dissembly the copper layer came off the (cheap low quality) PCB. So I then soldered to a nail banged in just outside the track. Neither of these were right at the board edge to allow space for the rail joiner to connect between the boards. Sometimes the nail-rail solder joints failed too (actually the metal meant the solder seldom took well to the nails). In future I will use a wider pcb strip to prevent failure, or brass plated screws into the plywood, under the rails and installed before the track is laid) to solder the rail to.

This method was to ensure that each end is a standard alignment for the bolts and the rails, in theory allowing any piece to connect to any other piece.

Will try and add some photos later