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James Hilton

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I've a peculiar habit - nothing like that! No I mean I've a habit of revisiting older models and bringing them up to my recent standards.

 

This is most evident when I have more than one of a locomotive type - actually that's nearly all my stock (3 08/09s, 2 33s, 3 37s and just one 58). I find working on a newer model makes me re-evaluate a previous effort and look to improve it. I guess this progression is pretty natural and is a good way for a beginner to progress - so guys, don't be afraid of re-working models you thought you'd finished - it's very satisfying.

 

So what is all this waffling about?

gallery_6671_16_3812.jpg

 

Yup - my brace of 08/09s. I've a thing about the Bachmann model (although I reckon all three need tweaking mechanically to improve running a little) and it responds really well to weathering and detailing. The models were completed in the order EWS, RF Grey and most recently the Mainline liveried 09 (featured in December 2009 Model Rail :)). As I've done each model I've updated the previous versions and after completing the last of the three and adding wire handrails to my Pacer project I wondered if the small short Gibson handrail knobs I'd aquired for that project could be used on the 08s?

 

The answer - as you can see, is yes! Check out the revised foot step handrails!

gallery_6671_16_168050.jpg

 

The foot steps need modifying first (as described in the article) with plasticard to make them wider. Then you can drill 0.5mm holes at the top to fit the knobs. Once these are fitted I added 0.33mm Gibson handrail wire (easier the thread then the 0.45mm - so less fiddly). I'm really impressed - so impressed that I'm going to roll out the modification to the other pair at the same time!

I've also added improved pipework under the cab and revised the vacuum pipe. I also need to add one extra air pipe to each end - and then just touch in the details. These models are ones I'm really proud of - the humble shunter and mundane appearance of all three is perfect for my layout. I think the Bachmann model, with these small modifications really comes to life. I'm planning on fitting Brassmasters rods to all three at some point this year once I master soldering with my Judith Edge Sentinel kit in the summer.

 

gallery_6671_16_28583.jpg

 

After my recent 37 detailing I'm planning to revisit my model of 37013 next - but have a plan of attack on Paxton Road thought out for the next month or so to try and progress the warehouse area despite the cold weather.

Questions, comments etc welcome as usual - I'll keep an eye on the comments and respond as necessary. If you're interested in the weathering finishes I can elaborate as the original posts describing the work are now on RMweb 3 which as of this week is still unavailable unfortunately.

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they look fantastic james, i caught your write up in MR and found it really helpful and a great step guide, i was wondering what powders and washes etc you mainly use, i ment to ask you at chasewater last year, as i could nt get a word in with my mate chris (chris56057) around?

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Hi James,

 

Nice. So how long before you are tempted to replace all the grab handles in reduced thickness? :D The handles on this one look thinner than the ones on the steps. :O

 

 

Cheers

 

Jan

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Hi Neil - you know me and weathering, it's nothing complicated.

 

I use Humbrol paints (faves are Matt Black 33, Matt Chocolate 98 and Gunmetal 53), and Mig powders (Black Smoke mostly, with a touch of Europe Dust used to represent brake dust occasionally). The EWS and Mainline gronks have a faded varnish added - whereby you add a touch of white (or off white/sand) to the varnish before applying with an airbrush. I then added the washes and powders afterwards. The biggest piece of advice I can give is to find a prototype photo and base the fading, staining and oil fuel spills on that! Also note that sometime it's necessary to repaint to get a faded finish - the roof on 08543 is repainted from the Bachmann dark grey and is a slightly greeny grey after some well observed help from Pugsley back on RMWeb 3. Hope that helps mate! As you can see there is progression but I think the key is not being afraid to re-visit older stock and bring it up to your current abilities :)

 

They look great sat on that bullhead rail - it's a real shame I didn't know about it when I built Paxton Road otherwise I'd have definitely used it in the sidings :)

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Hi James,

 

Nice. So how long before you are tempted to replace all the grab handles in reduced thickness? :D The handles on this one look thinner than the ones on the steps. :O

 

 

Cheers

 

Jan

 

One day! I think I'd need a handrail bending jig to get all the grabs consistent - that's why I've never tried. I find the white paint makes them thicker too as the grey ones on 08543 seem thinner because they're body coloured! The great thing with modelling with this frame of mind is that you never finish! There is always just one more improvement to make :)

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cheers james, thats what im going for...not complicated...i want to revisit my 20, i still think it looks to new and clean so i think im going to top up my weathering kit with the things you have suggested, i have many proto pics for it, i thinks just a matter of being brave and bold, i feel like i should invest in a airbrush kit too ( any advice?

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One day! I think I'd need a handrail bending jig to get all the grabs consistent - that's why I've never tried. I find the white paint makes them thicker too as the grey ones on 08543 seem thinner because they're body coloured! The great thing with modelling with this frame of mind is that you never finish! There is always just one more improvement to make :)

 

So..... what you need is Bill Bedford's EO17 ....... no excuses now! I'd just like to say how what you have done with these models has raised them well beyond the usual, and your work certainly captures the worn and weary prototype; and there are still a couple that bang and clank in the early hours on ECS workings in and out of Laira shed - but a coal's throw from my back yard.

 

Having purchased a "Lion and Dartboard" version recently, I have a P4 conversion pack on order from Ultrascale ..... (I think it's the 08.... it COULD be the 57XX pack - age and the vagaries of memory dontcha know? Time will tell.)

 

 

Cheers

 

Jan

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They look good.

One word I would use would be uniformity.

They are all very different liveries but they all look as if they belong together.

No stupid differences between them. They look like they work together in the same place which is good.

 

 

Lukasz

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Excellent James- it's the less known locos like the humble shunter which do react well to some detailing and weathering. You've also now made me re look at my Gronk- I think it needs updating. Keep up the good work though mate- it's ever inspiring.

 

Chris

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maybe your next project could be a gronk stabling point with the bullhead rail?

Neil I have wondered about doing a little diarama with my Exactoscale OO track - something akin to Weston Road whereby the backscene can be formed by rakes of wagons with locos or the subject of the photos posed in the foreground... thanks for the nudge!

 

I'd just like to say how what you have done with these models has raised them well beyond the usual, and your work certainly captures the worn and weary prototype

Jan - thankyou I hope that some of the ideas and tecniques I've used over the last two years on these three will help with your model :)

 

 

One word I would use would be uniformity. They are all very different liveries but they all look as if they belong together. No stupid differences between them. They look like they work together in the same place which is good.

 

it's the less known locos like the humble shunter which do react well to some detailing and weathering.

 

Lukasz, Chris - thankyou! :D I think you've both picked up on something here - the shunter is so 'every day' that we all rush to model the big locos, the celebrities and forget what gives a model real character is really caputuring people's imagination. I hope my treatment of these shunters does that, there is nothing over the top or shouts 'look at me'. They're quietly earning there keep and the consistency in my approach and choice of materials has given them a work worn uniformity. I hadn't really appreciated how important this is until I parked these three together. They were all done and worked on at different times yet coming together still look part of the same scene. Glad to have helped/inspired/whatever! I just really enjoy modelling and sharing my techniques and results with others! :)

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Good to here that James.

They do look very good.

I have a Hornby 09 in the mail on its way to me so will let you know how it compares probably in my blog.

 

 

Lukasz

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Nice work on those James,

 

I too like the Bachmann model and like you I only own three at the moment... 08664, 09017 and 09105...

 

I'm really tempted to give these a slight reworking having seen this now.

 

 

Have any details on the revised under cab pipework you mentioned? I think there was also an article in RM about doing this mod but I'm not sure I have it.

 

 

 

 

The bachy model is good, but I think my next gronk project will be a Hornby model though...

 

 

Cheers

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Hi, I need to replace a broken handrail on a Bachmann 08, its the long horizontal handrail that sits just below the roof line. Actually I'll replace both so that they match - plus the originals are way too thick. I'm guessing that if the originals are approx 30mm thick then I need 0.40mm wire - although 0.45mm wire would be easier for me to work with, but as I need the rails to be rigid and able to withstand a gentle knock without deforming I'm not sure as to what material I should use. Brass may be too soft(?), but will be easy to solder the 3x 90 degree 'stays' along its length. Plain old steel seems ideal, however most suppliers of this fine wire are only offering brass or nickel silver. Has anyone tried fabricating these rails, and if so what wire did you use?

 

Thanks.

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I used 0.4mm nickel silver wire provided in Ratio kits as you always get a few lengths extra... you can see it on the EWS example. This was because I had a damaged handrail (like you). I only changed the side shown in the photos. I bent it to length first, then mounted the middle supports in the body, protruding by the same distance and in line. I then added the long handrail and used superglue to attach to the intermediate supports. I thought this was easier then trying to fabricate in brass, then precision drill 4 holes in line! :)

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That sounds like an excellent but simple idea, using the original holes as a jig and gluing the various pieces together in situ, cheers.

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You just need a fine drill bit (I used 0.5 and superglue to effectively gap fill) as the Bachmann handrails don't come out cleanly! Glad to help :)

 

 

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