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37403 'Ben Cruachan' detailing 2


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Goodevening

working from top to bottom , the next bit to describe on 37403 I guess - will be the noses and bufferbeams.

On the noses ive replaced the Bachmann lamp brackets with vitrains versions - a little work with a new scalpel blade tidies up the vitrains brackets nicely (they sometimes have a little 'flash' on them' , and they're a bit finer than bachmanns own - plus being moulded in bendy plastic - theyre harder to breakrolleyes.gif Like most small fittings I secure them to the body using PVA. The brackets either side of the headcode box are again vitrains parts , thinned down using wet n dry - again chosen these for the same reasons, theyre robust and look good . These are also fixed with PVA.

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The ETH fitting on the nose is the original Bachmann part - but the multiple working jumper is Vitrains - this is the only bit im not happy with , it doesnt look like the real thing , so i'll change it for a modified Bachmann part - when I can source some. It seemed like a good idea at the time. The cables for both the ETH and multiple working jumpers are strands from knicker elastic - simply glued into the fittings (at one end only , so the body can still come off) with a drop of Devcon epoxy. Ive found that superglue makes the elastic brittle over time and it breaks off - Epoxy or PVA is much kinder.

 

The ETH fitting mounted on the bufferbeam is scratchbuilt from plastic rod. Obscured by the buffer - at the other end of the Multiple working jumper , i've used a vitrains class 47 multiple working socket - known as the 'elephants trunk' this vitrains part is a little underscale for what its intended to represent - but is just ideal for the fitting on the bufferbeam end of the cable. For the actual multiple working sockets , I've replaced bachmanns moulding with Heljan class 47 parts. The easiest way to remove the moulded-on version is with a very narrow chisel - which avoils damaging the vac pipe.

The pastic used on Heljan detailing parts is hard to glue - so to stick the sockets on the bufferbeam I always drill and glue in a small piece of wire - then glue into a small hole drilled in the bufferbeam . Vacuum pipes are also Heljans- the narrow air control pipes are Hornbys - the other pipes are vitrains , as i had them in stock - theyre not quite as detailed as Hornby pipes - but they do have a representation of the taps on them.

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The shot above shows the ETH socket - another vitrains part - that does the job quite well - also Hornby class 31 buffers have been added - and , easy to spot - Heljan snowploughs. I'll have to get the camera out again later , as the ploughs have been modified quite a bit to improve thier look , and to fit them easily. Its hard to explain whats been done on them - much easier to take a pic of them smile.gif

One last note about modelling ETH fitted 37s - to mount the ETH fittings on the bufferbeams correctly you need to file , or cut away the lower half of the outer extrememties of the bufferbeams - ie , the sections outside of the buffer mounting plates. The ETH fittings then sit in these cut outs. On the real locos, they were retro-fitted quite crudely - part of the bufferbeam was cut into , then bent up through 90 degrees , and the fittings were 'hung' off it.

 

I still have the paintwork around the noses/bufferbeams to tidy up a bit - paint the bufferheads and fit some screw couplings - but the hard work is mostly complete. Ill most likely fit Hornbys screw couplings , as they dont need to work - the loco will just be sitting in a box on in my little cabinet.

 

phew , that was tiring !

 

tomorrow - the bogies and all the underframe - and some better photos hopefully

 

tfn

 

Jon

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Id be interest to see the underframe mods Jon, Having just got back to detailing my model of 37425, having visited Crewe hertiage centre on bank Holiday last month, seems theres plenty to do, but got some good pictures of all of the sanding gear etc around the fuel tanks etc ... Heljans' ETH sockets arnt the easiest of things to glue on, but the Alradite won in the end :)

 

NL

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Jon, thanks for the walk through. I like the idea of knicker elastic, probably more forgiving than the brass wire I use, and more realistic looking. Will look forward to the bogies bit because I'm interested in what you used for the brake chains... as I could do with adding these (identical) to my 55s.

Enjoying watching and loving the explanations.... Jon H

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Stunning Jon - and thank you for describing everything - will definitely look into Vi-Trains bits when I get around to doing some 37/4s.

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Oh, and the Bachmann ETH looks the same as on the 55s (those that have it). I found it much better to paint the base yellow and leave the connector bit orange... although I completely scratch built the units on my Nimbus and Tulyar as the Bachmann model didn't (wrongly) have it.

Sourcing spares can be troublesome... I tend to browse Howes occsssionally. Where do you get yours?

And yes... I use the Hornby screw link coupling, although I used a Bachmann 47 one on one of the 55s just done and I think that this looked better... Jon

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Goodevening - yes Heljan plastic does put up a good fight when it wants to biggrin.gif

 

For the handbrake chains I use shawplan brackets - the chain itself is from A-Line - its about 40 links per inch from memory.

I ordered it in bulk from the states - I think Backwoods also do simialr here in the UK.

 

tfn

 

Jon

 

 

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That A-line chain is nigh on impossible to source in the UK I've found! I've got a back order at MG Sharps (and have had for 3 months I think).

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Thats the problem Ive had with MG sharp, they send you through back orders which never arrive! I ve had several, am not counting on them turning up though!

 

For the ETH head on mine, Ive been thinking of mouting on a plate, as per the real thing, The problem with the Bachmann moulding is it looks just to be mouted on a square plate, compare them and youll see what I mean ;)

 

NL

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Goodevening Nick - the mounting plate for the ETH would look better being " [ " shaped - ans not a solid block like Bachmann have moulded - looking through my piccies the real things seem to be bodged out of whatever was lying around - no two are quite the same rolleyes.gif The Bachmann ETH mouldings are sometimes covered with such a thick layour of orance paint , that they just look like orange blobs - its well worth dunking them in superstrip , as what lies underneath is a very nice detailed little moulding. Well worth stripping it and painting it properly. Unfortunatelty the ones on '403 wont budge - i dont want to damage anything trying to get em off.

 

 

Perhaps a certain extreme etcher may be able to do us a nice little etched mounting plate ...

 

 

tfn

 

jon

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Ive placed backorders with MG sharp several times, and although sometimes theres been quite a wait , everything I've ordered has turned up - so im happy- I do try and factor in the sometimes long delivery periods every time i order OOS stuff from MGshap -

 

tfn

 

jon

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Craftsman(?) did an ecthed mouting for thier 37/4 , which I used recently, Im probably gonna use plasticard to mount mine, but shall go into further detail when I post up my report on my blog thingie B)

 

NL

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