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Nice fishhhhhhhh.....


Captain Kernow

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One of the perils of adding cosmetic fishplates is that if you are using the rather nice P4 Track Co plastic ones, you need to cut them in half (unless you are putting them on an actual rail joint).

 

When laying the track on Callow Lane, I prefered to lay the track more as lengths of (made-up) flexi track, using their components, rather than actually try to lay individual 45' or 60' panels.

 

This means that I now have to cut small grooves in the tops of the rail heads at the appropriate intervals and glue fishplate halves on each side of an otherwise solid rail.

 

Apart from the extreme fiddliness of cutting the plastic items in two, you then need to square up the ends where they have come off the sprue, and cut off the remains of the tiny plastic joining piece on the back of each fishplate half, so that it will glue nice and flat against the side of the rail.

 

Of course, once it's all painted and weathered in, there could be a risk of it all disappearing into the overall scene of the layout, but I'm hoping that those on the main running lines at least will stand out a bit, as the rust colour will be fairly light (based on Humbrol No.62 Matt Leather), with the fishplates freshly oiled by the PW, and thus a darker colour.

 

That is, unless the men in the white coats don't cart me off first.... ;) :lol:

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Hi, Captain!

 

On the sole Delph board where I've got as far as cosmetic fish-plates, I only used the P4 Track Co version where I needed electrical isolation (just near the crossing on the point - even then, as you say, the moulding has to be split to fit each side of the rail). Otherwise, I used etched brass (Brassmasters) glued only to the visible side of the rails (cheating, I know - but the other side will never be seen and it halves the number needed). The exception to this was where I have fitted a buffer stop to the end of a siding where I used the P4 TC items whole, as intended, as I fixed the buffer stop after laying the track.

 

I must say, the etched versions are not quite as crisp in detail as the plastic mouldings, but I doubt that can be detected on the finished track, after weathering and at normal viewing distance. The main advantage is not having to file the pip of the rear face before attaching to the rail.

 

Dave.

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Hi Tim,

glad it's not just me that had fun with these then.. :rolleyes: I tried the same approach, wishing to keep the track as it was... cut and trimmed and rocket-maxed in place... then cut rail top with a scapel to represent join... although this is hardle visible. They're hard work and I'd think twice before doing a tandem turnout or double slip... but they're worth the effort. I think that unless you know they're there, you wont notice them... but when you do, it looks so much better adding that extra touch of realism... one set is just visible in front of Tulyar here, and one to the right: BRs... Jon

gallery_8351_978_333896.jpg

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That is, unless the men in the white coats don't cart me off first.... ;) :lol:

 

They havn't already? :D :D

 

I've got them to add to Felton Lane and Greyscroft Mine, although the ones I have are C&L they will no doubt be just as fiddly...

Thanks for the reminder that in an ideal world they should be greased, yes, this should make them more obvious and you will not have wasted your time after they blend in :huh:

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