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Phoenix rises from the ashes


scots region

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Hello all again. If you have been reading my previous entires then you know of the snag upon which my project had caught, a buffer had broken off the shunter making replacement impossible, worse still I had removed the remaining buffers. This threatened to throw the whole idea into disarray. After weeks of staring at it, an email to the inspiration and a blog entry, both of which went unanswered, I honestly thought that my brief foray into modeling had ended in abysmal failure and that I had ruined a model for no result. Then a very old and dear friend of mine pointed out the obvious solution and its a sign of inexperience that I didn't think of it.

 

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this is the former mount for the coupling, I've since filed it out. above this a pallet of plasticard squares each about 2MM thick will be glued to the body, through this a bore will be drilled and tapped and thus serve as a new connection. the front end will receive similar treatment, belt and braces and what have you.

 

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The new bufferbeam, fore

 

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The new bufferbeam, aft

 

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Removed Bufferblock, fore

 

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Removed Bufferblock, aft

 

There you have it, apologies for the appalling quality of photography. the resident photographer has been fired... out of a cannon.

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Good to see you back on track with this one SR, I did suggest something similar in my last post on here.

If your going to wasp stripe the ends drill the buffer and coupling holes first then apply stripes before gluing the buffers in place.

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Good to see you back on track with this one SR, I did suggest something similar in my last post on here.

If your going to wasp stripe the ends drill the buffer and coupling holes first then apply stripes before gluing the buffers in place.

 

right should I cut holes in the transfer before application. Oh and GLAD TO BE BACK

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right should I cut holes in the transfer before application. Oh and GLAD TO BE BACK

 

I didn't bother when I wasp striped my Steelman Royale recently. I applied the transfer, let it set, varnished then gently opened out the transfer where the holes are with a sharp scalpel. Gloss varnish the area where the transfer is going first to help the transfer slide in place. Be gentle and you wont tear the transfer. Then the buffers can then be glued (epoxy or superglue) in place.

If you look at the first pic. on here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/428/entry-4855-paint-shop-progress-2/ you can see that the transfer covers the holes (buffers, couplings and hoses) in the bufferbeam.

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