Hi Pete. That low level shot looks *really* good already, what a great building to model, and what great modelling.

The double-sided tape approach is clearly very effective, holidng a curve like that. Certainly the approach I want to use next time.

I hope the large brown paper parcel has nothing to do with the title

Looking good. You certainly know how to pick them! - ever thought of choosing a building with vertical walls and nice right-angled corners?I too have some of the new Mark 1s and very good they are too. Watch out for any on B4 bogies because they have a different axle length from the BR1 bogies.

Andy - Thanks - Yep, its a kind of punishment really as most of the buildings I design are orthogonal...am not big on curves and angular architecture - agreed about the mk I's - they are very nice - I think I saw something on the VAG recently about wheel diameters/lengths?

Very nice Pete... really starting to give a feel to the overall structure. More 37s..! Blimey pete... you'll soon have as many as I have 55s .Now.... time for bed

Jon - Thanks also - Only 4 class 37's...but as usual...far to many locos for a layout this size

I take it you are not going to block up the apertures Pete? nice internal detailing and an opportunity for some cameos methinks. Luv making suggestions as to how others can fill their time!RegsIan

Ian - Thanks - No, the apertures will remain open, as they were in the early 80's. Not sure about putting peeps inside though...pehaps a few wheel barrows lying around etc? Keep coming with the workload though

Hi Pete. That low level shot looks *really* good already, what a great building to model, and what great modelling.The double-sided tape approach is clearly very effective, holidng a curve like that. Certainly the approach I want to use next time.I hope the large brown paper parcel has nothing to do with the title

Thanks also Mikkel - I can't remember if I bought the DST in France...or Wilko...but its pretty damn strong...I usually use it to stick foamboard together too...but....it doesn't allow much repositioning though...you only get one chance...makes it more exciting to work with

Rest assured...the package came from Hattons...it's pretty safe to assume what the contents were

Good bit of work there Pete. The 4mm stone sets do seem to represent a lot of larger stonework in 2mm quite nicely. I've used it in several places. How long does the tape stick for, or has that point not yet been reached?

Good bit of work there Pete. The 4mm stone sets do seem to represent a lot of larger stonework in 2mm quite nicely. I've used it in several places. How long does the tape stick for, or has that point not yet been reached?

Thanks Kris - Good question - I intend to run a coat of MEK along the corner joints and it will get coated in paint which I hope will further bind it together. To date, I have not had the same delamination problems experienced when I did the small bridge which used contact adhesive to join the plastic sheeting to card...I guess time will tell but I feel more comfortable using this method.

As the others have already said, that is looking really good Pete. I love the gentle curve of the building and it definately adds interest. I cant wait to see it painted though.Missy

Thanks also Missy - Yes, painting it will be interesting...and then giving it a good covering with something white to represent the clay. I have heard white paint or even talc works well...the latter will certainly give the layout an interesting aroma

PeteIt certainly looks like you've got this challenging building right - I agree with Kris in that the larger stone work seems more appropriate for the structure. Also, all that open space inside is just screaming out for some interior detailing, which of course no-one will see, will cause lots of stress, but will eventually make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside :PQuick question - do you do full drawings before construction, or build 'on the fly'? I only ask as this looks like the result of some serious planning and preparation.

Thanks Steve - not sure about all the warm and fuzzy stuff from doing the interiors...please note how the loading bay openings have been proportioned on the size of jelly babies though, should the layout ever get a UK passport

To answer your question, only a certain amount of drawing is done and I guess a lot is done from photos. I would prefer to work from a good set of drawings but its quite difficult to source them.

I have some old OS type maps of moorswater which I mapped onto the board but then had to adjust the length proportions to get the mix of buildings I was after. I normally then rely on that method of counting bricks/blocks/stones etc from comparison with photographs using something for scale. The main facades I drew out on card to try and get the roof profiles, widths and heights correctly proportioned.

Rather than just model one of the dries buildings absolutely spot on in all its dimensionally accuracy, the boards sort of dictated where it was to be cropped as I felt this would be more representative of the prototype.

When finished, if people can recognise my built extract as being moorswater (from either visits there or from photos) then I will feel that I have achieved what I set out to do.

Sorry if that was a bit of a long answer

I do like that. What's the roof going to be slates or tiles?

Don

Hi Don - Thanks - Its neither...it looks like some kind of asbestos/crinkly tin roof.

Check this photo from Mark (46444) which shows what I am going to try to replicate.

I do like the contrast between the two buildings in terms of the differing materials and general condition.