I think what you have said there is a very sensible approach. If you start in 2mm then an engine would suit you I think, although I would probably start with something a little simpler like a 0-6-0 pannier tank or similar. It would be a good way to 'test the water' and learn the techniques frequently used.

You could easily put together a short length of track using Easitrac to test it with and maybe even buy a couple of wagon chassis etches to make a couple of wagons for it. That or purchase some replacement wheels to upgrade some of your existing rolling stock.

I was in the same position as you a while back and now I model in 2mm FS I will never look back. The 2mm FS folks are really friendly and there are also quite a few here on RMWeb so there is support for you if you need it.

As I mentioned in reply to your question about motion pins I feel you are getting frustrated with the lack of parts for modifying engines in N Gauge which in 2mm FS is the norm rather than the exception. I think you would be foolish not at least to try then if it satisfies your desire to make things than fantastic, if not then at least you have what you are doing now to fall back on.

I hope that helps.

Missy

Although I'm not a 2mm modeller (yet...) if I was in your position I would at least have a go with it, staring with a wagon perhaps then a small 0-6-0. I think that you'll soon decide whether its for you or not.

All the 2mm layouts that I've seen have looked fantastic and run well. One day...

You never know until you try... Theres is a proverb (I think) that says ' The hardest part of any journey of discovery is the first step'.

That said - this is a hobby, intended to give us stress relief and FUN. Have a go - but don't make yourself a slave to it...

Regs

Ian

Building easitrack is easy - points are a bit more challenging, but you can just build a couple of feet of plain track for testing of your models.

Although it's probably of little interest to you, drop-in wheel replacement is now available to convert many diesel models from N to 2mm.

Replacement wheels for rolling stock to convert from N to 2mm are readily available (you just need to ensure you get the ones with the appropriate axle length).

There is a highly-regarded wheel-turning service, though I've heard that it's difficult to satisfactorily turn down the wheels on some steam locomotives for various reasons.

I'm building a few wagons at present to improve my skills (and confidence), then I will be building a simple 0-6-0 tender engine.

General recommendation I received was to build one of Bob Jones' Jinty 0-6-0 tanks for my first venture - that didn't suit my preference for GWR, and unfortunately I don't think the pannier that missy suggests is generally available yet, so I went for the second choice, the 0-6-0 and tender - I chose the Bob Jones chassis, though I don't think its wheelbase quite matches any of the prototypes I want to copy.

I think it is certainly worth joining the 2mm Association - that gives you access to their components, and links to various independent suppliers. I'm sure you have found their web site by now, but for the benefit of other interested readers it is http://www.2mm.org.uk/

You might also like to look at the experience of John Birkett-Smith who has a couple of N layouts using largely handbuilt or heavily modified locomotive stock. I understand that he finds it difficult to obtain components for scratchbuilding in N, and appears to use some from the 2mm Association. His blog is at

http://small-but-perfectly-formed.blogspot.com/

Good luck with it!

David

It all depends on what you enjoy doing - 2mm is not for everyone. If you like building things (and judging from the content of your blog, I think you do) then give 2mm a go. If you like running trains and have loads of N gauge stock, but aren't keen on kitbuilding/scratchbuilding then it probably isn't for you.

I'd start with a length of Easitrac and a wagon kit (and don't demolish the track on your N gauge layout until you're sure which way you want to go). That will give you an idea of the size of the bits you're dealing with and the general principles. Have a look at the website and the links to the blogs on there and see what you think. The 2mm Roadshow attends many exhibitions (I spent yesterday helping on it at the Doncaster BRM show) and the starter kits and booklets are available from there, along with on-the-spot membership. It goes to various shows and the guys and gals who man it are always willing to have a chat and offer advice!

As for the locos, I'd recommend the Bob Jones Jinty or the 0-6-0 chassis (which are based on NER prototypes). The 42xx and A8 have both been built in 2mm so it is possible (and I'm sure Missy can offer you plenty of hints, tips and the benefit of her experience with the 42xx), but they will involve designing a gearbox/motor mount, so are probably best tackled once you've got a bit of experience under your belt.

There are also quite a few 2mm area groups dotted around the country which are well worth attending - most of the 2mm modellers on here are members of one or more.

Hope this helps.

Andy

Well, first of all, thank you to everybody who's replied. You've given me a lot to think about... Well, more precisely, you've given me quite a few ideas as to where to look next.

The first step is going to be to print out the application form for the 2mm Association, and then probably troddle along to the Nottingham model railway exhibition.

I think a Jinty was the second model I made in O gauge, and the first one with an etched brass boiler... [The first was a BR Standard 4MT tank engine...] and I could certainly do with one. I'm also drawn to the J39...[i've not had an 0-6-0 tender engine... ever] Come to think of it, maybe I could get the universal 0-6-0 chassis and stick a Farish 4F under it... I'm guessing I'd put a Farish body on the Jinty chassis... Or else maybe make my own.

Sorry that wasn't very clear.

So yes, probably either go for a Jinty chassis, or a universal 0-6-0 + tender chassis... and then think what to put on top. Or else... given it's likely to be a while before I'm ready to do it, possibly the J39.

To change to 2mm FS would be a major leap for you - and probably require a complete change in philosophy.

It seems to me that very few people in 2FS have built a substantial number of locos - and those that have will be mainly conversions of N gauge items. Conversion wheelsets are available for Farish diesels and DMUs, but not yet for steam locos, so even a steam loco conversion is quite a challenge. There are a few etched chassis kits and a small number of complete kits available, but these by no means cover the range of locos most people would want.

If you want to scratchbuild locos, then remember that 2mm components are not cheap. By the time you have paid for wheels, gears, motor and other accessories you are fast approaching the cost of some of the N gauge RTR locos. Add to that the time and cost of all the other things you will need like track jigs, rail, easitrack sleepers, replacement wheels for your rolling stock etc. plus all the extra time involved - and the decision of moving to 2mm scale becomes a very serious issue. You also need to consider that 2mm layouts generally run on much wider radius curves than N gauge, so you may get far less in the same space.

Do at least seriously consider the alternatives. If an N gauge loco has the right wheels for your scratchbuilt locos, buying the loco for its wheel, gears and motor might well end up cheaper and quicker than going over to 2mm scale ( especially when all the other costs and conversions are taken into account). As an alternative, I have heard of one or two people using 2mm FS wheels on N gauge track by adding a thin washer to the backs of the wheels to bring the flanges up to the same thickness as on Farish wheels.

When done properly, a 2mm FS layout and stock will look nicer than an N gauge layout - especially when looked at closely. In theory, having all the components available means that you can build pretty well anything you want. The extra work involved and cost are a major issue though. To my knowledge, (though I would be happy to be corrected if I am wrong), very few individual 2mm modellers have ever produced more than a very small number of scratch-built or converted steam locos - and I suspect all but a few do little more than convert RTR diesels and rolling stock, if anything at all. There are few large, complex 2mm FS layouts - and those that have been built are almost all group efforts.

If you do convert to 2mm FS you will almost certainly end up drastically limiting your ambitions. A fairly small fleet of locos and a relatively unambitious layout are the very most that you are ever likely to achieve - at least unless your determination and energy is exceptionally high.

Another alternative would be to completely separate your scratchbuilding activity from your layout. If you want to scratchbuild a loco, then why not try a larger scale? There are many more components available in 4mm scale, for example.

Well, Weekday Cross, you've certainly opened a large can of worms there. [i'd rather have tuna, by the way. Actually, I did, they had tuna steaks at half price when I went to Sainsbury's yesterday...]

At the moment, my layout - I'll have to post some pictures some time - has curves of 18" radius. Apart from possibly the points, I can't remember what the radius of a medium code 80 point is.

You know, I should have, perhaps, thought about the possible increase in radius. I've never done EM or P4, but I've heard that they need bigger radii... If 18" is too small, then I need to think really hard.

Let's look at the options for the A.J. Powell 2-8-4 tank. Again, as with the Garratt, I'm assuming this would have become a BR standard type, so we can keep some of the valve gear from the 3MT tank we'll be nicking the wheels from. Of course, we can't keep all of it, because the cylinders drive the third set of drivers, not the second. [Like most 8 coupled locos, I think...]

So, we need two 3MTs at £60 a time, and then we need to chuck pretty much everything away except the wheels from both, and the motor from one. (we would have a spare motor). We'd have to make a new chassis because the wheel spacing is all wrong. So we can't use the coupling rods... And we'd need to replace the eccentric rod, and... the main one. On the bright side, we can use a 4MT body with only a small extension... So that's £120, plus the stuff to build a chassis.

Or we could go to 2mmFS. The cost will be wheels, motor, and gears rather than the 2 3MTs.

Of course, on the gripping hand, I do have a... number of steam locos that would need to be converted.

As for separating things out, and doing my scratchbuilding in OO... The problem is, that I wouldn't be able to run them.