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Wiring a Cobalt motor.

Chrislock

Entry posted by Chrislock

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Well in spite of general ignorance in such things, I think I've finally sussed out the wiring for my cobalt motor. At least the engine runs through in one switch position, but not the other - I think I need to check that current is reaching every part of the common crossing, as I have gaps in the rails at the correct points.

Here is how I think it should be done, based on what I could make out from the DCC Supplies pdf ( it did not come with instructions in the box :angry: ):

 

blogentry-5408-0-56162400-1299587734_thumb.jpg

 

Any thoughts, comments etc gratefully received, as ever!

This is the corrected diagram to avoid any confusion:

 

blogentry-5408-0-05465400-1299629483_thumb.jpg

 

Regards,

Chris

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8 Comments

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Rail-Online

Chris,

 

Well the wiring looks correct to me.

Try unclipping connections 2 & 3 and putting them in again. Also then try removing both 2& 3 and temporarily connecting one at a time to 4, with each temp copnnection the loco should work through the point with it set in one of the two settings (straight or curved) If it doesn't then one of the wires is not connected at the rails correctly.

 

Tony

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Neil Rogers

which make of point are you using?

 

because if you are using peco you will need to modify it slightly. otherwise you may get a short!

 

regards

Neil Rogers

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SNCF stephen

I found that the polarity needs switching with each throw of the switch so essentially the 8 and 1 points require some kind of switch that alternates the current with every throw.

 

However my knowledge of electronics is not huge and your set up may have taken this into account.

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  • RMweb Gold
Donw
  • RMweb Gold

Chris you don't say what problem occurs when it wont run if it just won't run then there is a disconnection somewhere. If its a short then its a connection occurring when it shouldn't . I assume that its not shorting just it won't run.

Have you made the point as shown where the blades are one piece. I would normally cut them towards the crossing end. Just switch the crossing area and permenantly bond the blades to the stock rails. This avoids any contact with the back of a wheel touching the open blade. This would show as a short. If you have wired it like this then its possible that one of the blades is not bonded to the stock rail.

 

If the blsdes are of one piece with the wing rails then if its electrically ok in one direction but not the other it would suggest either the switch in the cobalt is faulty, one of the connections to the switch is faulty or the contacts are different to how you think.

If you have a multi meter it would be quite easy to check. Unfortunately I don't have any cobalt motors to hand.

Regards Don

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Chrislock

Thanks guys.

The cobalt is indeed supposed to switch polarity automatically via the green wire.

The turnouts are built from the 2mm association easitrac system.

Tony thanks for the suggestions.

Chris

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  • RMweb Gold
Donw
  • RMweb Gold

Chris I just had a check on theeasitrac instructions they show the point blades having a break before the crossing thus the blades should be bonded to the stock rails there is an insulation gap between them and the crossing V / wing rail assembly which is the part switched. I suggest you check your bonding.

Don

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Chrislock

Thanks Don.

I have those breaks, just didn't show it on the diagram- but I will check everything suggested tomorrow anyway.

I need to sort this out before the other motors arrive.

Also I need to dig out an old 9v power supply ( mobile phone for eg) to powee them all.

Chris

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bcnPete
  • RMweb Gold

Chris,

 

am no sparks so can't help I am afraid.

 

that's why I do 'wire in tube'...it makes less noise too :lol:

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