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A Very British Bulldog - pass the soldering Iron


scanman

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As usual I start with the tender. This is the 3000 gal variant - and thanks to CraigW on ths site I now have a very nice image of the loco & tender. Coupled with the images & drawing in 'Russell' and kind contributions from other lists (GWRSG & GWR- E-list) I now have quite an amount of information! The one thouht that occurs to me is - when a loco went to Swindon for (say) a heavy overhaul - did she come out with the same tender? seems inconceivable that the tender would sit around (sometimes for several months)... Anyway, thanks to Craig I have photo evidence bang on period!

 

This shows a 3000 gal tender fitted with tie bars rather than tie-rods - so on with the chassis..

 

This is a Finney kit - just follow the instructions! Okay, I didn't... Section 1 'fold up the side frames, then impress the rivet detail'

 

'Ahh - if I do that I won't get the rivetting tool in'. So I did the first side rivets first - and spent some time 'tweaking out' the inevitable distortion. It then occurred to me that the setting of my rivetting tool (basically an M6 rod with a hardened tip and adjustable nuts controlling the travel of the slug could be adjusted! The other sideframe followed the instructions to the letter - bingo! No distortion.

 

So after 4.5 hours work -

 

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Work stopped when I hit a slight snag - a missing part. Or rather a missing fret... At 11.00pm I guessed it would be politic to drop Mr Finney an e-mail rather than 'phoning him! Shouldn't delay the buid too much - I need the wheels next to set up the chassis.

 

Having said I would follow the instructions, there is one 'mod' I am considering... The side frames are 'temporarily' located by 10BA bolts passed through the holes visibll in the plan view. I'm thinking about making that arrangement permanent, allowing an element of disassembly. It will depend on other construction elements yet to come!

 

Hopefully I can make some progress tommorrow, as the tender body is not dependent on competion of the chasis. However with three of us involved in hospital visits tommorrow, time may be somewhat short!

 

Regs

 

Ian

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Looking good, Ian. I seem to remember being caught out with the rivets on the side frames as well :rolleyes: Your idea of keeping the bolts in place rather than soldering may be a good idea. On my 2500 gallon version I followed the instructions and soldered it all together but I doubt if it would be easy to remove the wheels if I ever needed to.

 

Nick

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Hi Nick -

 

I will admit the idea is not new - I built a 7mm 3,500 gal from the same stable - it was only once I'd done all the chassis work that I thought 'B...er, how do I paint it?'. So I gave it back to the client & let him work it out...

 

Regs

 

Ian

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G'day Ian. Show some photos on how you fit the bolts if you decide to go that way because i think you will have to modify the body to retain them.

 

What motor and mount are you looking at using?

 

Had a look around and I think the only one who does plates for Kingfisher is 247 Developments.

 

regards,

 

Craig

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Hmm... Martin got back to me pretty quickly. The 'missing' small etched sheet is in fact included in one of the larger sheets. Just appeared separate on the photocopy.. Normally I would have checked all the parts against the sheet, but I was impatient to start. I've sent Martin an apology!

 

Also the wheelsets arrived today - great service from 'Alan Gibson'.

 

 

Craig -

 

There's been a bit of 'chat' on the 'small suppliers forum' re 247 Developments... I need to contact him anyway - need a backhead for a '5700' & the 'Metro'. Fortunately he's trading at ExpoEM! If/when I've worked how to de-mount the wheelsets/chassis etc I will describe it here. The other route would be to open the ends of the hornblocks & iether use some form of 'keeper plate' (pretty difficult bearing in mind the water scoop & other gubbins that sits under there, or use keepers across the mouth of the hornblocks. I'll investigate!

 

Regs

 

Ian

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