Back to the Big Bagnall
After something of a hiatus, I've returned to the Bagnall which has now reached the rolling chassis stage. Having replaced the slidebars with a set which actually reach the motion brackets and adapted the motion brackets so that there is actually something for the slide bars to attach to. The slidebars are made from some of the fret which held the frames, some nice, chunky - but probably still underscale - nickel silver. I think the modifications to the original kit design are now complete!
To anyone else out there with one of these kits, I'll describe (briefly) the motion bracket mod's, since they are not all that clear in the pictures. The bracket is tabbed into the chassis and has the usual 'C' shaped cut-out to allow the connecting rod to reach the wheels. Unless you are modelling in P4, a small amount of the bracket which protrudes from the frames will need to be removed to provide clearance for the flanges of the front pair of drivers. The depth of the 'C' will also need to be reduced in size to provide support for the slidebars. I used a small piece of scrap etch, filed to size after the slidebars were fitted.
That done, a couple of coats of paint followed and the usual round of fiddling and adjustment ensued to make sure that the thing actually runs. I have never understood the logic behind making everything run well and then taking it all apart to paint and having to re-make half the adjustments. Barring one stiff hornguide which needed easing, for reasons which are not entirely clear: it was fine a couple of months ago, this was not, in fact, too painful though a notch had to be filed in the motion bracket all the way to the rear of the slidebar.
I had ascertained early on that the coupling rod bosses needed a certain amount of thinning and the second layer of boss - the rods are laminated from two layers of nickel-silver - behind the crossheads was removed altogether (a common ploy). There is sufficient clearance (in EM), however, that the actual crankpin only needs to be filed flush with the nut while the nut itself can retain it's full thickness. I should have worked out that drastic thinning of the 'big end' of the connecting rods was also needed, but one learns through experience!
The next job is to apply some blackening solution to that gearbox...
Adam
Source: Preston Docks Bagnalls
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