The promotional coaches made by Graham Farish and peddled by Shredded Wheat actually came with hook and eye couplings. I bought a few off eBay a number of years back. Once repainted they are in all other respects, as far as I could tell, the same as the 'proper' offerings at a much lower cost!.

If you don't find a better use for the building at the entrance to the goods yard it would probably make a lot of sense to have a weighbridge and hut.

That B+W shot looks very nice Chris...

Thanks Pete. Its interesting to take sme in B+w to compare with old photos of the prototype. It can give an idea as to whether the shade of Midland Lake is in the right area, for example.

The promotional coaches made by Graham Farish and peddled by Shredded Wheat actually came with hook and eye couplings. I bought a few off eBay a number of years back. Once repainted they are in all other respects, as far as I could tell, the same as the 'proper' offerings at a much lower cost!. If you don't find a better use for the building at the entrance to the goods yard it would probably make a lot of sense to have a weighbridge and hut.

Yes I've seen those Rich - in fact I saw a box of them at a toy fair last Sunday, but I bought 6 of these off ebay quite cheaply. So far I've touched up and repainted roofs on these 3.

I do have some 1:152 6 wheelers to make up ( with Clemenson chassis) which will ultimately replace these anyway.

A weighbridge is definitely needed, but the building(s) look quite substantial - like a workshop/ house/ stable sort of size. I have considered cheating and relocating the Railway Inn there, as it isn't on the limited area I'm modelling!

Careful Chris.

Your comment about comparing shading in B&W... Different photographic technics give different shdaes of grey!

The old plates (Circa 19th Century) were red sensitive so tended to make this colour darker.

HI brightspark - I didn't know they were red sensitive, though I used to do a lot of B+W myself, so have used filters and so on and appreciate the dangers of taking such analysis too seriously!.

But surely red sensitive plates would mean denser areas where red light occurred on the negative and therefore lighter tones on the reversed print?

In which case the engines would look lighter and green foliage etc darker...

or have I got my chemistry wrong?

Your're right Chris, I guess that was a typo by brightspark. They were insensitive to red! Hence all reds appear to be dark grey or black, and much darker than our perception of the tone. It's been discussed here many times, often when people do a simple conversion to greyscale in photowhatsit, or when us GWR types get started on indian red frames...

Nick