I have to say sorry yet again for delay in posting; this time it’s down to illness, - I’ve been hammering the NHS stock of medication and doctors time! However I’m now in recovery mode and getting some time in ‘The Tank’.

The J10 is now at the frame assembly stage but getting to grips with all the gubbins associated with a CSB chassis, and a split-frame one to boot, has tested not only the little grey cells but also the deteriorating hand-eye coordination.

For years now, I have started on a chassis by first making a chassis assembly jig. My jig is very much cheaper than either of those available from our traders. It’s also very much simpler, but follows the same principles i.e. holding temporary axles parallel to each other, holding them square and on the correct wheelbase centres. The chassis is then assembled on those temporary axles and the coupling rods are built up on similar axles. The pictures will explain it all better than words.

The problem for many other modellers is that they do not have access to machine tools. I have a dedicated workshop and I’m able to make my jig on a milling machine which, rather than my skill, is what keeps holes square, parallel and with controlled depth. If you are skilful with a vertical drill you can get similar results, and if you are a truly skilled user of a power, or even a hand drill, you can make an accurate assembly jig; unfortunately most of us are not so skilled!

Picture A

This jig is made from 1.25” x 1.25” bright mild steel and is about 5” long. Two axles are shown and one coupling rod ‘axle’. Those three lengths of 1/8” dia. silver-steel are in holes ½” deep, and on exact centres for a J10 chassis. You can also see a set of four holes, and above them, with white paint over stamped numbers, the wheelbase dimensions for that set. They are the holes used to assemble my O4 chassis and will be used again with my next loco, a Q4 which had same wheelbase as the O4.

Picture B

Here the J10 frames are assembled but shown on the jig. The top face of the jig has another set of four holes, these having been used for my O6 which was an LNER built version of the Stanier designed 8F. This picture shows much colour coding, the colour being from cheap nail varnish and helping to ensure that axle boxes (bearings if you prefer!) are fitted in their correct horn block.

Picture C

A different view to ‘B’, but still the J10. Here the colour coding on the axle boxes shows up; the black blob indicates left hand side ~(red used for RH)~ and then blue, green white respectively for front, middle, rear axles. The three small holes below the chassis were used with 1/16” temporary axles to assemble a J94 chassis some 15 years ago.

Picture D

Same again but a differing view-point, the O4/Q4 holes showing perhaps more clearly.

This same bit of steel bar was also used to assemble my B1, my J11 and my K3 and I think I can find space for a V2 chassis in the future. Oh!, the steel bar came out of a scrap bin so it cost nowt!!!!