Returning to the previous instalment, there's something worth mentioning (in case you've not read the comments):

Normal practice is for 90 degree bends to be bent towards the half-etch, but 180 degree bends to be bent away from the half-etch. In this kit, the V-hangers are bent 180 degrees towards the half-etch, thus passing inside the solebar, rather than outside it.

After fitting the brake gear, the next step that I tackled was the solebars.

I cut out the four plain solebars, leaving the half-etched outer solebars for now, cleaned them up, and reamed out the holes to fit fairly loosely over the top-hat bearings. I snipped off the four small steps from two of the solebars, then carefully put them on one side for use later (only two of them will be needed, the other two will probably escape to the floor anyway...).

I tinned both sides of each solebar, and the corresponding sides of the underframe, then reamed out the holes again, as some of the solder had run into them.

Holding one pair of solebars firmly against the side of the underframe, with the top-hat bearings through the holes, I ran some solder paint along the joins near the point where they are held together, then applied a hot soldering iron. Not having the recommended asbestos fingers, I generally use a spring loaded pair of tweezers to hold them together - alternatively some small bulldog clips, and I've also seen ladies' hairclips suggested. This was repeated until the entire length is firmly fixed.

Alternatively you can attach the solebars one at a time - each is easier and quicker, but you need to do twice as many, which is probably a nett loss.

The final (half-etched) solebars need much more care:

1) There's no longer any alignment aid from the top-hat bearings, so you will need to position and hold them yourself manually.

2) There are two rows of small tabs - to hold up the steps (two tabs) and the running board (five tabs). You need to be careful not to cut off these tabs when cutting from the etch, or cleaning up afterwards, then to fold them up at some point (so make sure you don't solder them in place now...)

3) There's a "right" and a "wrong" way round, which isn't immediately obvious - the end with the two tabs for the steps corresponds to the verandah, and the two holes at underframe end are guides to the non-verandah end of the body, so you want the step tab end of the solebar at the non-two-hole end of the underframe.

The basic process is the same - tin the surfaces, hold them together, add solder paint/flux, apply soldering iron, apart from the much-increased difficulty of holding it in the right place.

Then I bent up the lower tabs, and soldered the footboard in place. With my first toad I also solded the steps in place, but for the second one I am leaving the steps until later, so that they align correctly with the verandah door - i.e. after the verandah sides are in place.

Next I tackled the sides of the body.

I cut out the block of six pieces - two main sides, two inner overlays and two outer overlays. There are large tabs attached with holes for alignment - first time through I used a couple of top-hat bearings in through the holes to ensure correct alignment, second time I omitted this and merely checked by eye. Alternatively wire or drill shafts through the holes have been suggested by others in similar cases.

After tinning all relevant surfaces, I folded up inner overlays onto the main sides, and soldered them in place - initially just with a few small tacks. Following the example of the photograph I am using for reference, I wanted to add the frame (at the opposite end to the verandah), which according to RWA was used for diagramming letters. Two alternatives are available - three-sided which appears better size, but very flimsy, and four sided which appears a little too large. I used three sided on the first model, four-sided on the second. So after soldering the inner side in place I carefully positioned these tiny frames onto the sides, added tiny dabs of solder paste, applied the soldering iron, and they stayed in place (none lost to the carpet - no doubt if there had been no spares available, one or two would have escaped).

I folded over the outer overlays, and tacked them in place. Then I snipped off the alignment tabs, and proceeded to run along all the edges and most of the interior bars, soldering the sides more firmly together.

If you don't intend to fit the small frames, it's probably better to fold over all three levels and solder them together in one run.