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Roxey Summers Iron Ore Hopper part 3 - Chassis 1.


halfwit

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The first stage in putting the chassis together is to bend up the stiffening ribs and bufferbeams on the top chassis plate. Then another pair of stiffening ribs can be cut from the etch, ends folded over, and soldered in place (the outermost ribs). Before the solebars can be fitted to the chassis there are half-etched overlays to be sweated in place, I left the solebars on the etch whilst I did this and used my RSU and 188 degree solder paint. The completed solebars could then be trimmed to length with a few file strokes and then tacked in place, at the ends only to start with. Here's a pic of one solebar tacked in place;

 

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To make sure that the solebars are correctly spaced I gently placed the chassis bottom plate on the chassis whilst tacking the solebars at the mid point of the chassis (the lower part of the solebars slot into the bottom plate);

 

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After checking the assembly on a flat surface (mirror) I soldered the assembly up. Then the dragbox and the angled ribs can the soldered in place, the instructions ask you to modify the ribs by cutting a section off, for wheel clearance. I did but I'm not convinced that it was necessary. Time will tell.

A pic with the dragbox and one rib in place, unmodified angle rib in the foreground;

 

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The assembly as it stands now;

 

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Again all soldering, apart from the solebar overlays, done with 188 degree solder, Eileen's Strong Flux (12% rather than the usual 9% phosphoric acid), and my trusty Antex XS25.

 

Paul.

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More work done this morning, and I should get more done on it tomorrow. Much swearing involved...

Expect another blog update by the end of the weekend.

 

Paul.

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Hya buddy, sounds good and i knew there would be some swearing involved!:) will check in for the next pic update soon.

 

Rich.

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