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Roxey Summers Iron Ore Hopper part 5 - Hopper 1.


halfwit

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The hopper body is etched in one piece;

 

blogentry-6749-0-80260300-1330873484_thumb.jpg

 

There is a problem and it is that the base is too wide. The solution is to cut the etch into four pieces leaving the base attached to one side;

 

blogentry-6749-0-62507100-1330873496_thumb.jpg

 

I used a piercing saw, which followed the half etched fold lines beautifully.

 

This is all in the instructions. The instructions also suggest punching out the rivets before folding, however I did this after folding figuring that the folded panels would be stronger and less likely to deform on being riveted and so that the raised rivets woudn't be squashed in my Hold & Fold. I use a drop hammer type rivetting tool and a 5.5 inch Hold & Fold.

Tabs and slots are used to locate the panels together.

All folded up and riveted;

 

blogentry-6749-0-70377300-1330873513_thumb.jpg

 

And thats how things stand at the moment. I now need to spend time examining the parts and figure out the best way to hold them together whilst being soldered.

 

Apologies for the shorter than usual blog entry but I feel that this is a significant stage in the build, one mistake now could create huge problems later on.

 

Paul.

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Hi Paul. I've built a couple of the 7mm versions. (I take it these are a reduced version of the Warren Sheppard kit?) The hopper was a ****** to get square and my first attempt wasn't quite!

Looking at your excellent work so far, I'm sure you've got it sussed but it's just something to watch out for. When I came to fit my first hopper to the chassis, even though it looked square (as did my chassis) it pulled the chassis out of line and a slight "compromise" had to be accepted (grrr).

JF

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Hi John.

It is a reduced version of the Warren Shephard kit as you say. Does the hopper body on the 7mm version need sectioning as the 4mm one does?

I'll be taking my time and doing a lot of checking and rechecking before soldering the hopper up solid!

 

Paul.

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Hi John.It is a reduced version of the Warren Shephard kit as you say. Does the hopper body on the 7mm version need sectioning as the 4mm one does?I'll be taking my time and doing a lot of checking and rechecking before soldering the hopper up solid!Paul.

I didn't cut it but maybe that was part of the problem!! I have 2 more to build so I'll make more investigations as to why it didn't square up so easily.

JF

JF

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Looking good chap, good luck with the hopper and i forgot the rivets needed doing not the best of jobs i suppose:( anyway keep up the good work liking how the wagon is developing now:)

 

Cheers

 

Rich.

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Rivetting etched kits is very straightforward really, just locate the tip of the drop hammer in the half etched hole, raise the weight and let it drop! I rest the workpiece on a bit of .040" plasticard. You do need to make sure that the upper limit nuts are set correctly so you only punch out a rivet, not bend the workpiece. Start low and move the limit nuts upwards until you get the desired effect. Gets a bit boring after a while though...

The tool can be seen in the top of the last photo.

 

Paul.

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