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Feeble Footsteps


josh993

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As you may remember I started a blog a month or so ago about my new project in 2mm Finescale, in which some of you may be wondering how it is progressing.

 

Well apart from a few small purchases, not to much has happened. Some more thought has gone into the baseboard design and construction, along with how to model the gradient.

 

Anyway, I recently purchased a LNER J39 kit on eBay, the model had been built out of a combination of whitemetal and brass, and includes one of the latest Farish 0-6-0 chassis's.

 

Now as I have not been able to find a suitable LNER/M&GN loco kit to dip my toes with (With the funding I want to spend on my first attempts), I thought this might be an ideal alternative to my first proper footsteps in the scale.

 

So the small package arrived a couple of days ago in which this was concealed this:

 

blogentry-1986-0-71544400-1343761439.jpg

 

Upon closer inspection, the kit has not been built to a bad standard. I presume that it is a BH Enterprise kit or something similar. However, with the addition of some handrails, reversing gear, Westing house pump, turned buffers and different safety valve arrangement, In my opinion it won't be to far from looking like a half reasonable model.

 

So the next step was to take the chassis apart and assess the modifications that would be needed to get it to 2mm Finescale standards.

 

After 10 minutes or so I had managed to remove the wheels & coupling rods - The actual loco chassis appears to have been 'built' into the chassis which looks like it would cause trouble/unwanted stress to remove it completely.

 

After assessing the removed wheels, the drivers (excluding their thickness) do not appear to be to far off the standard when taking the flange size into account, so I am unsure what modifications could be made to these without completely rebuilding the chassis with a brass alternative.

 

blogentry-1986-0-07226500-1343761258_thumb.jpg

 

I therefore propose to put the chassis back together with the addition of the associations back to back gauge, conrods and crankpins.

 

As for the tender wheels, these really do show the signs of the huge unwanted flange, I therefore had planned to post these off and have them turned down to the correct size (however, I believe that they can not be thinned as they are spoked wheels?)

 

blogentry-1986-0-72818600-1343761344_thumb.jpg

 

I would appreciate and bodies comments or ideas on the Farish chassis and what I have mentioned above, as mentioned and suggested; these are my very first steps into converting/doing something in the scale so a point/nudge in the right direction maybe needed . . .

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Send the wheels off for turning by the wheel turning service. Put them back in. Robert's your Mother's Brother. that is the cheapest easiest route to conversion. You are right that spoked wheels cannot be thinned, but the wheels should fit just fine re-gauged with the proper flange and work without problem.

 

If you want M&GN stuff you should call David Eveleigh. AFAIK he's the only person who has kits available for this company. His number is in the Yearbook.

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I would go with Rich's comments. Although it might not be your first choice you will learn a lot and have a decent model at the end. If you are a 2mmSA member join the VAG it will give you access to the photo albums. You should find David Eveleigh's work on Framsden and Goldhanger interesting along with much else.

Don

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Thanks for your comments guys - I have had several conversations with David, and am waiting his latest set of etches for the M&GN D class loco, so I can start with a 0-6-0 rather than a 4-4-2 or 4-4-0, as I feel this would be more practical step into the scale.

 

In regards to turning the wheels down - The drivers look like they have a farily small flange as it is, so would there be any need to send them off for turning?

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I don't know. They might be RP25, which is pretty fine but iirc not the same as the 2mm standard. There are people around that know more about modern wheel standards. If I were you I would send them off for turning anyway.

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You're probably right to wait. A 4-4-0 is meant to be more difficult to get working right because of balancing the weight to achieve good running and load hauling abilities. A 4-4-2 might make things easier in this respect.

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if I recall RP25 are 0.5mm wide flange 2mm are 0.3mm wide so RP25 will be very tight on checkrails

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