Greetings.
This afternoon was first opportunity to get on with this board in some time.
I have been doing a bit of this and that, mainly tinkering with my Single trying to improve the pickup and running, and taking the usual 2 steps backwards and 1 forward in the process!
I have also been waiting to add some flock powder to the landscape of my latest shunting board, to cover some of that brown paint which resembles rock too much...
I decided to take a couple of photos to show how th
Hi.
A little has been taking place on the new plank since my last entry.
I have been looking for examples of platform architecture on small wayside type stations/ halts, and have in the end tried to render some of the ideas from different areas of the Midland and its predecessors in Derbyshire stone.
One of the advantages of halts, is that they were often privately built and taken over by the main railway companies.
I am reasonably happy with the outcome, which is part waiting shelter and pa
Nowt to do with Cadbury ( for those old enough to remember that rather iffy advert), more to do with building and fitting a couple of canal bridges and trying to achieve that Derbyshire stone look. Once the sculptamold is painted in and a earth coloured powder is brushed onto the stonework, I think it will look ok.
Yesterday I had my grandsons round. I handed my eldest, Jake, 7, the Power Cab, showed him how the point changed and left him to run the 24 with a wagon back and forth over
A short and rather truncated clip of my 24 running through the three wayer.
Also showing the browning of the land ready for scatters etc.
.
Next up though are the painting of the canal bed and making those canal bridges...
wharfs end v3.wmv
Chris
and with it time to complete the ballasting and adding some sculptamold to flat bits and slopey bits alike, with the opportunity of getting in some good quality drying time.
Ballasting.
Aaarrgg!! What IS it about Easitrac and getting effective ballasting!
i know now, I've worked it out. The sleepers at an accurate 0.82mm are too shallow to hold the ballast well.
By comparison, Code 55 is easy to get to look good., being a whopping overscale 1 foot 6 inches deep - and so holds the bal
Greetings.
Last night I installed two electromagnets and wired them to two push to make switches, which Have been added to the front switch plate. I have had these for a while in my box, and was looking for an opportunity to try them out.
I also have an unused memory wire kit, so might have a play and use this for the signal.
Installing the magnets was fairly straightforward - or it was until I realised I didn't need to drill right through the baseboard and sleepers to install them. A
Well sculptamold - eventually!
Work since last blog:
- Levelling the area between the lowered level of the siding and the wharf area. There is still a slight gradient trackside, but not really obvious. I used polyfilla and have rough painted this with brown acrylic.
- Adding a foamboard backscene, using formas and reverse knife cuts to curve it and glue-gunned it in place.
- Infilling the siding with polyfilla to represent ash and clinker. Stippling lightly with a brush while st
HI.
I thought I'd add a brief post and photo to show how this micro-layout is going.
I suppose the annotation says it all at this stage.
I am largely making this up as I go along - it's quite good fun, actually, after the rigorous research required by the Glenfield model..
Also I am following suggestions from Chris Nevard's articles- where I can. The foamboardin the construction has worked very well.
Cheers,
Chris
Evenin' all.
I have been busy the past week wiring up the little layout board and installing connectors and switches.
Even a simple , one turnout layout seems to involve a lot of wire stripping and soldering.
Power is now running through the rails and 3-way - the latter after I traced a short down to a sleeper which was not quite cut through in one place..
However, and frustratingly,onto the loco used to test it out in DC ( both my blue diesels are DCC ready now), a Johnson class 2
Hi.
I have managed to do a little modelling this week on the micro layout.
The buses, feed wires and point motors are connected up, and today I cycled over to Maplins for a couple of point switches, a 3.5 jack socket for the 12v supply ( I'll borrow the one off Glenfield) and a din plug for the DCC controller input.
I have some aluminium sheet lying around and I am wondering what I would need to do to use these for fascia plates for the switches and sockets, as aluminium is a conductor
I'm not sure who will still follow this blog as it has been sadly neglected for some time.
This has been partly due to the death of my father and all that that entailed; but also down to a disappearing work ethic, then a number of side-tracking issues, ranging from Swiss mountain railways (!) to dabbling with that( lovely) OO Bachmann Robinson 04 - choo choo!
Anyway, try as I might to readjust, the draw of 2mm is just too strong..
I like the "small club" feel of belonging to the 2mm ass
G'Day.
Since the resolution of certain pressing family matters back in March/ April, I have turned back to the renovation programme for the improvement of some of my Midland engines.
First out was the little class 480 goods engine, which is now running reasonably well after some minor tweaks.
Next up is the very first engine I built and described on the thread below, the Johnson bogie single, which on paper, should be the easiest of them to get runing well, as there is no quartering to
I have returned to a little 2mm scale modelling.
I need to add some more stuff to the Glenfield layout as it is looking very neglected, so have been soldering together a station seat and a hand barrow from Shirescenes. Hard on the eyes but I managed to do it ok.
I also gave the track a good wipe along to try to get some of the dirt off and improve running, in the process of which I managed to remove the sign ( again) from the Gents.
I don't think now that the track on this little layout is t
Greetings.
I have not been doing a lot in the way of modelling lately, although I have been rebuilding the chassis of my 2mm loco 0-4-4T. I am really struggling with this, in particular actually seeing what I am doing. Fiddly does not enter into it!
By contrast, I 've also been casting around ( excuse pun) for a loco crew for my Bachman 04.
I sent off for figures from Aiden Campbell, Langley, Dart and Springside.
The best in my opinion, were the Dart castings, (which I've also used in 2mm
My last entry perhaps came over a bit more glum than I intended, giving the impression that I was abandoning 2mm rather than just having a break for a while to give my eyes a rest! So am adding this one to balance things out a little!
Firstly, as I indicated I have been tweaking my little 2mm goods engine and am pleased to report that it is now running more smoothly, having traced the cause of the intermittent the short to a frame catching a crank.
I also mentioned that I have been having a
Greetings.
Since I set up my OO Bachman 04 with sound like an executive toy on my windowsill, my attention has turned back to my 2mm endeavours and I have been through a reflective period; trying to decide whether in fact I should continue with 2mm.
My declining eyesight is one serious consideration.
The Little Glenfield layout has required some TLC as it has been neglected for some months.
I have had the engines out on parade and find that some of them just don't work reliably enough
Well, I've done it.
For some time, ever since I bought into the potential of DCC in fact, I've been hankering after having sound in a loco. I have never been really taken thus far with the quality of steam recordings I’ve heard, so have been tempted more towards a throaty Sulzer on a class 24.
The problem is, 2mm just doesn't lend itself. Even if you could crank the sound up loud enough, it would somehow be disproportionate to the size of the models in the general context of the landsc
Greetings.
Just a few extra details added this evening, before quitting to watch Whitechapel.
This is a very detailed kit - far too so for me, personally, as it requires soldering under magnification of some very fiddly detail. My eyes are just not that good anymore!
The etches though are astonishing in terms of quality.
I found the tiny (.3mm) holes in the chassis for the brake wire too close to the driving wheels. When I tried slotting a piece through it actually rotated with the whe
I finally got around to starting this Twommlocomotives kit.
The bulk of the chassis has been kindly built for me by the owner, leaving blackening and some detail to add, some of which will be difficult because it has been assembled.
Anyway, this afternoon I worked on the footplate,
Greetings,
Just finished rewheeling and recoupling this loco and what a straightforward and easy job it proved!
Compared to the Class 25, everything about this retooled loco makes it easy to work on:
Now just need to dirty it up some more...
Chris
Well not at all about LT, except like those fabled red buses, I post no blogs for ages and then two come along at once, haha.
After a period of very low ouput ( and interest, if I'm honest), a few things have been happening this week, so I thought I would blog them. if only to fill up some space!
The experiments with more complex track has already been documented, and any further assistance with getting the wiring and operation will be gratefully received ( see last entry).
This week
Greetings.
I have been inspired to have a go at a 3 way point by some of the excellent work in the 2FS forum of late. I took the template from Templot ( I am very much a beginner but managed to cob a solution together).
I constructed the turnout from code 40 and pcb strip using my usual easy method of construction: there are no chairs used. It took a couple of evenings from start to finish, and my test wagon rolls through all roads nicely.
The photo shows how I planned to isolate parts electr
Had the most odd thing happen....
Feeling suitably enthused by a couple of beers, I decided to remove the rapidos from my class 25, in the process of which I somehow managed to break those little tags at the front of the bogie frame ( which hold it on!) and loosen one of the bogies from the chassis block...
I managed to find an exploded drawing and so it was not a difficult job to separate the two halves and return the bogie to its previous connected state.
That is, until I applied pow
For comparison with those exquisite figures on Mikkel's blog..
What 2mm modellers have..!!
L to R: Dart castings, Pendraken wargame figure (WW1), Langley x2 ( funeral set!)
The painted chap on the end has a top hat turned down to a bowler.
