Entry posted by Jon020
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Well, it’s been a while since my last proper update on this project... which is now into its 2nd year, so I’ll try to address this omission. The 47 project has been tackled bit by bit; the bogie frames were a task tackled after some consideration as to how to improve on the offerings provided by Bachmann. I picked up some Heljan bogie sideframes (suggested by Jim SW) and whilst these looked nice, I thought that they still lacked form fidelity and fixing them to the Bachmann bogies might be troublesome... although I was sure I’d be able to work something out. The ViTrains bogies looked nice too, but I didn’t see any available as spares. Lima’s ones look good too, but I decided that the Bachmann one could possibly be reworked to remove the erroneous elements and improve on the detail provided. Most of the work was blogged in my last update (part 5) so I’ll not go into what I covered already... but I’ll fill in some bits that I missed, or that I just feel like adding to.
With the second bogie modified by removing all incorrect pipework and “lean” springs, the fabricated springs were fitted (as before) and further refinement tackled. The brake mechanism seems to run through the bogie casting, so representative openings were needed. These were drilled out of the frame using a 0.6mm drill bit carefully held with a pin vice.
Once drilled, a broach was used to elongate the hole to give the correct proportions... and then this repeated for each side and end.
The sideframe pipework is represented using 0.25mm nickel wire, onto which sections of evergreen “microrod” (that’s what I’ll call it) were added. The rod is carefully drilled out with a 0.3mm drill to form a tube section, and once the eyesight has recovered, these can be cut into sections of the correct length, bit by bit and slid onto the wire.
The two main sections of pipework can then be attached to the bogie side frame (one side only) using zap-a-gap pink to secure each plastic tube “union” or clip to the bogie frame, bending the wire at the determined-to-be correct point and working outwards from the centre. This is a task to enjoy looking back at and I’m happy not to need to repeat this again anytime soon. Here, both completed bogies show slight variation in pipe run; whether this matters or not is probably irrelevant as the pipe runs will not both be visible simultaneously. It’ll do.
The bogie was then finished with the brake mechanism manufactured as previously reported (although I’m sure my eyes were more strained this time) and the refined fitting of the PHDesigns steps (which need refinement to fit over the top of the new pipework. This simple refinement just involves small slithers of microstrip added to the step brackets to “lift” them away from the sideframes by about 0.5mm. Once finished, I took a breather.
Underframe.
The next task to tackle, after some slight distractions through repainting the ends of the Craven DMU that’s also vying for my attention (Railmatch yellow rather than Bachmann yellow is less orangey), and a re-badging of a 3-rail Hornby Dublo West Country... I decided that it was time to tackle the underframe tanks. I’d seen some photos previously of how these could be corrected, but I was dammed if I could find them.
After a busy weekend that involved a day in London for a wedding banquet ... with a trip to the East end first... and a quick “grab” shot as we passed through Liverpool St Stn... (Mrs Jon020 tolerating this... although I had to explain that it was a “loco”
... much nicer than our boring units)
... and a "drive" the DLR
... and then all the snowy weather had finished its fatherly distractions such as path/driveway/road clearing of snow, and the mandatory sledging supervision... and of course the sledge-test, to make sure the slope was safe 
,
...attention could be returned to more mundane workbench activities. To this end I did a search on google images to find some suitable reference material and finally, through the pages of the old RMWeb, I found a thread covering this subject. The problem here is that because I’m depicting an early generator in 1974 condition, the full tanks would be represented; I’d taken some shots of 47401 at Swanwick last year, but this has lost most of the tanks so wasn't much help. However, the RMWeb thread assisted and I had some material to work from.
Wow... these tanks were going to need more work than I’d bargained on. However, after an hour or so in contemplation looking at the photos and the plastic lump that is the Bachmann offering, I made a start.
The first thing that strikes me, having reworked the Class 55 tanks previously (thanks Brian) was the need to remove the unnecessary webbing between the frame and tanks/batt boxes... phew no Lithium Cobalt Oxide on these babies ;-). I attacked one end of the moulding with a fine saw and then drilled/cut out the material between the two... this first step looking reasonable and not resulting in too many broken drills or sliced finger tips. The frame/bracket lightening holes were also opened out using a 0.4mm drill and broach... sanded clean after with some 1000 grade paper.
Then I cut the “wrong” end mouldings off, again with the saw blade to leave a workable shape. The end seen on the right here was cut vertically and horizontally to leave the upper face and bracket in place; the left hand end was just sliced off with a vertical cut.
On one side, there is a small panel with two hose fittings or unions at the bottom of the tanks (drains or fillers?) and to provision for these, I cut away a corner of both “lumps” using a combination of drill/file, cut and an abrader (dremel type thingy).
I then closed the gap between the two tanks, inserting two strips of evergreen strip to each side, trimmed to shape, effectively closing the gap nicely. Two extra thin pieces were added as bases for the panel.
Inside these were blanked off with two small quadrant shaped pieces of the same material... all affixed with pink zap-a-gap.
The base plate was filed flush with the tank sides and a back piece attached across the gap (per prototype photo references)
The unions were made from plastic rod, drilled out with a 0.6mm drill, superglued in place. A 0.4mm drill was used to put a hole through the base and a length of short 0.4mm wire inserted for the pipework. A slither of plastic cut to shape made the centre cover.
I then took my thinnest sheet of plastic card and with some 120 grade paper thinned a piece if it down further... to the extent that light passed through it and allowed a measure of where the thin material was.
From this I cut a rectangular section and affixed it to below the panel for the lower cover.
I then carried on removing the rest of the material from above the other tank/batt box,
....extended the brackets with thinned micro strip (holes drilled with 0.3mm drill) and with two pieces of micro strip, corrected the shape of the battery boxes.
One important task was the replacement of the fuel gauges which are too big and, slightly more importantly, in the wrong place. I cut/filled/sanded the existing ones off, polishing with 1000 grade paper, and then set about working out how to fit new ones. I thought about using the spare “test” etch deltic fuel gauges that Brian had given me... they’re very nice but a bit big for the old 47. So... I drilled a largish hole in approximately the right place, inserted a length of plastic rod thinned to give an interference fit, recessed (not flush) with the outer face, drilled a hole through the centre of this... about 1mm I think... and inserted another length of thin rod through this. This was then filed flush and a recess drilled (cut) into its face to represent the dial face. It’s not brillian, but with some paint hopefully it’ll look reasonable. After repeating the same process for all the items with the other side (without the additional panel as it’s not there), I added the new end “shapes” with a laminate of thicker plastic card cut to shape. I closed out the cut outs at one end with an angle piece of strip and then added a thick T piece to represent the continuation of the attachment bracing... superglued in place with a mix of zap-a-gap green and pink.
A similar, shorter section was added at the other end... for the same reason... and inspected thoroughly.
Then it was just a case of referring to numerous photos and adding various small items such as blocks, unions on brackets (tube on micro strip) taps (0.4mm wire and micro rod and micro strip) and those big rectangular blocks that hang near the bogie (plastic card with micro strip framing.
All pipe runs were added using a mix of 0.6, 0.4 and 0.25mm wire, drilled and glued in place accordingly.
Finally, a few test-fits to the chassis frame and body were used. I’ve a Bachmann 57 to hand, which I keep looking at to see where the bogie sits and I think I’ll have enough clearance, although that big pipe will foul the bogie of it turn too far – it’ll will not have to then will it!
I think that the end result is quite reasonable, and that with a little primer to blend it all in it should look half decent. I still need to get the knack of using the new Daylight LED spot lights that came with my mini photo studio (although I changed the “hot” bulbs with the LED daylights)... because the white bits in the photo are over exposed... I’ll grab some better ones at some point.
This project has turned into a bit of another mammoth exercise, and I would like to continue to thank all who have helped my sanity with suggestions of where to look for details ... and especially to those on the Class 47 group on here... the hosts of the Class47.co.uk website and the new 47 group on facebook (yes the social network can have its uses)
That’s all for now... hope it’s enough to be getting on with 
Jon
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