After a long hiatus for the summer progress has continued a little. The engine shed has been largely finished for some time but I put the internal white washed bricks in this week to finish the job. The engine shed will be adjacent to the coaling stage, to which I am adding coal now!
It is not modelled on a prototype. It is however in the GWR style with similarities to Tetbury without the water tower, or a shorter version of Wallingford.
A view looking insi
Not much time to progress over the last few days but before I did too much more I wanted to get some lighting in to ensure I could cover up the wiring fairly easily.
My first go at the high masts was with a yellow LED to represent a sodium bulb. Unfortunately having tried it out there wasn't enough light coming out of it for the effect I wanted and I didn't have enough room in my brass rod to get any more LEDs.
Initial trial with a yellow bulb. Can you spot the li
I wanted to embed some of the narrow gauge rails in cobbles, but unusually for the internet i couldn't find a method which seemed to provide an effective end-result. The most common ways are either to use embossed sheet or modelling clay to fill between the sleepers. As far as i could see neither method provides a clean edge to the gap that the wheel flanges run in and often leave the sleepers visible, which breaks the illusion of a buried rail.
Therefore, i wanted to add an additio
With the LED now fixed in the lamp, the leads got fed down the post. I half expected them to get caught up on the rod providing the pivot for the counter balance, but all went swimmingly. Twisting them together may have helped. The camera's really struggling close-ups today, wrong phase of the moon or something.
And then the lamp was glued on, making sure it lines up with the spectacle lens holes.
Followed by the track circuit plaque. I placed this as
The part of the instructions, which have only a couple of sketches and reminded me today of Airfix instructions back in the day when they purely text, is to add either a signal wire pulley, or a crank arm (cosmetic). This is different from the other kit I did which just offered a crank, so naturally I've gone with the pulley - though this is I suspect not prototypical for the period. It uses the same part as the bracket on the post and folds up with a pulley on another short bit of rod. This is
A minor digression into drawbars, here.
Hornby's Rebuilt West Country/Battle of Britain models are nice products, with a couple of annoying quirks. The first and worst of these is that
they're prone to gear failures, at least the ones produced in the early batches. I ended up with three, and after a few years two of them were
both non-runners due to various issues. Hornby's repair department was no help at all, which I found very disappointing as they are by no means
4 new points were added to the board - two mixed gauge points and two narrow gauge. The board is like a swan, it looks pretty calm on top, but all hell breaks loose underneath with a maze of multicolored wiring. So far the running reliability is good, but with the stay-alive in the loco's its hard to tell if it's down to my track and wiring or not...maybe i need a 'normal' loco for fault detection?
The Tillig track has been interesting to use and the transition from standard gauge t
On the way to the workbench I passed a flock of newly arrived tail lamps making their way towards their traditional nesting habitat; to whit some buffer stops. Beautiful plumage.
And so session number 2 with the signal kit. The next step in the instructions is to make the arm. All quite straightforward, but in the absence of any non-soldery pins to hold things square I did this by lying it face down on a bit of wood with a hole drilled for end of the pivot wire. Then looking do
This weekend was a chance to finish off painting the asphalt and to make a start on getting all the road lining and decals down. Ferry terminals seem to be covered with white yellow and red lining of different sorts so out with the acrylic pens and bendy ruler to start marking it all on.
(marking on the top road lines first using the bendy ruler for the corners.)
(I then marked out a chevron where the two routes split before marking the lines down the ramp.)
Whilst painting and decorating, fitting fishplates and the final bits of rodding and signal wires proceeds in stops and starts (they aren't my favourite activities) I decided building a nice kit would be a pleasant diversion. Though I'm itching to build the 43two1 Models BR 20T brake van kit (I built one a few years ago, a delightful kit) reason suggested making the MSE signal kit for the platform would be more practical.
Those of the tidy workshop persuasion might like to go and hav
Life moves on, and I’ve now joined the ranks of the Working From Home. A directional drilling contractor I’ve worked for in the past approached me a while ago, about looking after the documentation for some new projects they expected in 2020. I was certainly open to suggestions; my attempts at re-entering civil engineering had rather turned out as a reminder of why I’d left the industry in the 90s, and we’d had a good relationship in our previous dealings.
I’d seen this as a possibl
So how to covert a DB V200 shell to something a bit more like the CC65000?
So far I've altered the cab-side windows at both ends, including the plated-over windows above the cab doors to represent a loco towards the end of their life with SNCF.
I've also cut the V200 nose off at one end, and made a start on re-shaping the windscreens. The CC65000 has windscreens that are straight at the bottom, while the V200 screens have a curved bottom edge.
Fingers crossed it all goes togethe
The D38 Glass well wagon has given me a challenge but I’m reasonably happy with the overall result.
The support frame has a slight lean, but it is only really noticeable in closeup and square on photos. As specials I think the wagon would be in good condition for the Edwardian era, it is in its first decade in service. I therefore just gave it some very light weathering.
If someone has any transfers a scale 1” high that say “OIL” then I’ll buy some. those 3 dots above the
Who hangs on to old tins of paint, wherein gloopy remains stick to the bottom? I have an old tin of Humbrol 27004 Metalcote Gunmetal, most of which was used for airbrushing onto wheels and smokeboxes in a black/gunmetal mixture. During a search for suitable buffer head grease I found that the otherwise unusable pigment that remained in the bottom of an improperly closed tinlet had an interesting property. A lump of this goo was attached to a buffer head, smeared about a bit and left to dry. Once
I found The Gimp to have quite a learning curve. I still sometimes have to refer back to references and get online help when I come back to it after a break. I use it because it gives me pretty much the power of a full copy of Photoshop which I believe is currently £238 per year. It even includes features like nested layers which I use a lot in designing buildings for printing. The redeeming factors of The Gimp for me are:
It is very powerful
It is free
You can become very
Thanks for that, very useful! That black and white set goes directly on my christmas wishlist
Ah, the Gimp. I would so prefer to use it as a matter of principle - but must admit I struggle with it. The interface doesn't seem very intuitive to me. Perhaps it's just because I have become used to other programmes.
Thank you Mike, we modellers are good at re-purposing products, but it's important to know what we are dealing with.
Especially at a time where 3D printing is advancing. I found myself needing to lightly sand one such product today, but realised yet again that I didn't know what particular printing material had been used, and what extent of safety precautions were required. I ended up doing it outside on our tiny balcony, wearing a proper respiratory protection mask. May have been ov