Back from Grime Streets first outing, pretty happy overall, everything ran reasonably well, the major problem being it's operator-yours truly!
Trying to operate and answer questions was not that easy, the planned use of cars went out of the window, less being used but swapped over more frequently, I think I may alter the hidden storage at some stage to ease this. Other lessons learned, Halling mechanisms are superb in operation and the Grime Street fleet may shrink in number for a while as a
Well after the success that iv had with Pilot Road ( which is available for shows and exhibitions) i thought its about time i started a new project, i decided to go a little bigger than the box file and went for a 4ft x 1ft plank which i had laying around.
the basis is really just something to shunt a little and hopefully develop my scratchbuilding skills and start making a move into dcc and eventually explore a little sound.
ok the plan, sorry its a kinda mess but its all i could forge
Good evening - finally I have time to migrate from the old to the new forum so I will give a 10 slide refresher on my Coombe Junction 2mmFS project.
Originally, the idea to build this layout had been floating around in my head for 20 years or so but 18 months ago, it was time to stop being a 'paper modeller' and start it. Upon commencement, shortly after the 2mm Scale Association announced the Golden Jubilee Layout Competition scheduled for the July 2010 Expo and I realised that my three boa
Since I'm out of "W"s I decided to finish off the Cornish Riviera kitchen car that I'd been renovating. This was originally bought off ebay some years ago, together with a brass toplight composite and a Centenary brake third. I stripped it and the toplight down using Nitromors which proved highly effective, so much so that anything that had been superglued on fell off (the kitchen car disintegrated into its constituent parts).
I had to take the soldering iron to the toplight to remove exces
In the past few weeks I have been adding in a few smaller pieces of details as well as construcing different types of trees. I did have a go at making my own armatures and although it was relatively successful I think my technique could do with being refined (don't panic I did not use any of those trees covered with sea moss...). However I was very pleased with the Woodland Scenics range of tree kits that are available. I purchased a pack of the smaller sized trees and found it to be relatively
well at this point I finally figured out what I wanted to do with the track layout. Once again the list of parameters came into effect:
1) It had to have a means of running locos round.
2) It had to have sidings to do some shunting.
3) It had to have at least a loco siding. Narrow gauge US tends to have uncovered loco yards on logging lines, and I wanted somewhere to display locos not running.
4) I had to be able to store more than one complete train on the layout at one time.
5) NO Ho
Over the past couple of days I have made a concerted effort to make a start on the second On30 module that needs to be ready for the January 2010 CRM Exhibition in Crewe. The first step was to dig the 2 modules out from under the workbench and store the 45mm stuff out of the way for a while.
The turntable module is a at a detailing stage and has taken up its place on the left bench of the garden shed. The Orange Growers module is somewhat further behind and has taken up reidence on the right
Never my favourite job, a bit like patio laying I never seem to get it quite right. Tried a method new to me which was to put the glue down then add the the ballast. Used a small syringe with some thinned PVA and it seemed to work quite well. Ballast is fine Woodland scenics and looks OK.
On the sidings tried the method the Chris Nevard used and filled in the gaps with modelling clay. It does seem to be a lot less messy than plaster though my application was considerably more heavy handed than
My attention has now turned to the tender. There are 2 things that I want to do with it which are 1. Change the motor to something better, and 2. Change the wheels to 2mm standards.
As nothing really exists for the tender wheels I thought that this was an ideal oppertunity to have a go at machining some N Gauge wheels to 2mm SA standards so armed with a drawing of the wheels and my little lathe I managed the following..
Its kinda cool that they s
original page on Old RMweb
Imported from original thread on RMWeb.
??? posted on Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:17 pm
This started off as a design that I made up on Hugh Flynn's "Layout Plans" topic (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=24472&start=733)
Basically, Shortliner made a comment about why not use two 2x3 boards to make a 4x3 board instea
With TFMP being out for the day, I've been able to crack on with this little project all afternoon. I go through phases with this, sometimes I really get into it and can achieve a lot in a what feels like a short length of time. Other times I don't really 'feel it' so get distracted, and don't achieve much at all.
The second side is just about there now, I think. I've highlighted the panel lines with dark grime washes, and added the rust underneath the door hinges with powders - a mix of
Hello everyone, after the period a few weeks ago where i was going hell for leather with the moddeling, i have slowed down slightly and have been taking stock! But since the last blog entry there has been alot of change on Dearnford! The hill that can be seen is a lump of polystyrene in the last blog entry is now complete and i have chaged the trackplan to accomodate the new TMD which will soon reside on the layout. Track is now down and wired in for thenew TMD and i have alos been doing various
Further to last night's ponderings, I've decided that the crate will be replaced by a 3ft x 2ft bespoke box. I've also had a play-about in XtrackCAD and come up with this.
The blue represents the modelled water, the thick brown lines the edges of the opened out side/front. The hinges are represented by the red lines and the grey blocks are the lift out sections of quay, to allow the side/front to fold up. I may adjust the edges of the water to co-incide with the quay walls.
This working for a living lark certainly gets in the way of a bit of decent modelling time. Anyway, I have cleaned up the OLE today and made the small repairs needed to some of the masts. I have taken away all of the old contact wire and everything is now set for rewiring.
Drawing on experience now gained I intend to try out a new way of tensioning the wires. I am building a small pulley tower from Meccanno which will take the contact wire's free end and run over a couple of pulleys to a bal
A little more, much the same as before. The tank spillage needs a bit more work, I'm not entirely happy with that bit yet, but everything else is coming on nicely. The underframe has been done in much the same way as before, but this time I tried using raw umber gouache to tint the Tamiya Smoke for the oily bits on the underframe, instead of using the gloss tan.
It's worked rather nicely, so that's another combination of materials added to the arsenal!
Next stage is putting a bit
well christmas 07 came and went, and left me with a bright yellow Bachmann Mogul and matching Rio Grande wagons, and a lovely set of mine tippers. The whole lot was sent belting round an oval of track loosely laid on the board and a lot of fun was had.
The loco is actually not a D&RGW (Denver & Rio Grande Western) loco but is the generic loco Bachmann use in their sets. Its actually a pretty accurate model of a Colorado and Southern mogul with a few bits altered to make it more lik
I think I need to change the title of my 'blog, I'm still a little unsure of whether this will continue or go back to the old format now 'tis available. There are alot of ways in which I like the 'blog format but it seems that in general, people are not prepared to embrace the opportunity, preferring to stick with what is familiar.
One thing I've just realised with the 'blogs is that your 'blog has to cover all your contributions, whereas you can have seperate threads for each different int
well hello there, my names Matt, a 20 year old modeller from the South near London. I noted a distinct lack of On30 type stuff on the forum (or at least I haven't stumbled onto it yet!) and thought I would rectify the situation. As a lot of my layout is already built, I shall cheat a bit and let you have snippits of info at a time to keep things interesting. Fortunately I take pictures of everything as I do things so I shall have plenty of archive to fall back on. As its twenty to one at nig
As the motive power here is both of the prototype and a bit varied, I thought I would create a sort of spotters list of what can be seen around, and hopefully justify its appearance.Mainstay of the line are the BLACK FIVES.
There are currently five of them, three new Hornby ones and two hybrids with modified old tender drive bodies and new loco drive chassis- its a long story- and they run most of the services.
Station pilot duties are shared between two engines- a Caley 0-6-0T
I've finished the two tracks that run through the Shillingstone module. They're lightly tacked down since I want to tweak the alignment a bit but the wiring is done and tested. Since I don't envisage ever wanting to operate two locomotives at once, I've only used on-off switches, so a train can be parked in the station while another passes. I do want to run DCC-equipped locos on the layout occasionally, though, so there's a DPDT switch to select between analog and digital. Screwed to the undersi
I have no idea what I'm doing here, so will probably be a bit of a learning curve as i go , anyhow here goes, sorry if dont work first time.
Hopefully this entry will be a step by step article about modelling the BR unfitted grain hopper wagon, using the Dapol model as the basis of my project. For prototypical shots the first obvious place is Paul Bartlett's excellent site http://gallery6801.fotopic.net/c1477752.html which is a modellers heaven for people who like their wagons, t
I just received two packets from DCC concepts, via Bromsgrove Models. The first is a sample pack of their FlickerFree lights and the second a packet of 6 working guards van lamps, in 4mm. After a little messing around with resistor values to get the reds the same brightness as a normal 1.8mm LED this is what I've achieved today:
The white lights stay on for about 10 minutes after removing the track power and the reds are still on over an hour later.
Phosphor bronze pickups are
Many thanks badger. I'm afraid the building storage is very basic stuff. Each layout simply has a box (shoebox or bigger) where all the buildings "live" when a layout is not in use. A bit of bubble wrap avoids scratching. The only exception so far is the goods depot, which is permanently fixed inside the Ikea box that forms the basis for the micro layout. The boxes are stored in a large closet, and are close when I bring out a layout.
On the subject of stock sto
I've followed the developement of your layout(s) and the very informative articles you do from time to time. A while back you did one on figure storage. Could possibly do a storage article or give advice, for the rest of your buildings and any tips for ease of packing and unpacking?