I've left the roof for now and have done some work on the underframe. The truss rods are from NNK and are much better than the kit's crude plastic mouldings or trying to make these out of L section brass. They are preformed and solder up in a couple of minutes.
They are designed as a complete unit (presumably to fit the chassis of their own EMU kits), but as this made tem too wide for my chassis I removed the central section before glueing them in place.
The underframe castings I'
...actually, I've never been but, it seems, there is a growing following for Irish N Gauge. I have had a few requests in the past to produce overlays for IR coaches and thought "why not?"
Given that a lot of IR stock is of UK design, such as the Mark 2 and Mark 3 coaches, these have been fairly easy to replicate, thanks to some superb web resources like Fotopic. As I already produce the Class 442, modifying the artwork for the hauled IR Mark 3s is fairly easy and the finished coach really lo
It's slowly taking shape. The underframe is now fitted and the various white metal bits hung off it barring the dynamo. The roof has its vents and I've put the handrails on. That leaves the end gangways and some spots of filling to sort out.
The buffers are fun as they have to be held in a pin vice and filed to give the Gresley style flat top.
Had another burst of enthusiasm on the work bench today.
I have been playing with the Scale Hardware parts that I received a while back.
Along with finding a drill bit that was perfect for drilling the hole in the eccentric rod for the oil corks, I have added the fake nut and bolt heads to the expansion link, and another piece dunked in the chemical black.
I don't know if you agree, but I think this chemical black on nickel gives the perfect look for rarely looked after rods... migh
I am most grateful to all the readers who took the trouble to respond to my previous blog entry, 'Is anybody reading any of this?'. Thank you all......I have some answers to the questions you posed (Further down the page, indicated by a sub-heading).
To readers who have not previously stumbled upon this blog, I would suggest that you read the comments to the aforementioned previous entry, in order to make sense of the rest of this missive!
Some general questions now. Anyone who has not b
Just had to use that lovely word lacuna!
I've just had some 1:2500 map sections courtesy of West Sussex CC archives, unfortunately there is nothing between 1910 and the 1970s so more research needed to verify the 1950s condition.
Well finally I have got around to building myself a layout....only taken the best part fo 20 years....!
The orginal plan to run my O gauge in the garden is going to be mothballed (especially during the winter months), while I concentrate on building an Somerset and Dorset themed depot (circa late 1950's, early 60's) in the garage.
I'm not going to model a specific location, but there will be influences from Bath and Templecombe MPDs no doubt. Modellers Licence will definatly be involved
Sliced a big piece of 5mm foamboard into a 90 degree curved board today. Used Evo-Stik wood glue - worked in the past - and small veneer pins to hold it together. I will remove the pins and encase the sides and ends in thin ply when its all set solid. This is to create low walls to stop things diving to the floor as well as to add to the stiffness. The track should probably go on an underlay of some sort. I'm thinking that the neoprene route is probably better than cork as the latter is quite he
Whilst musing on the Cement Shed boxfile, and doing some modelling on Wheal Tiny, I've been thinking about another concept - a harbour in a crate.
Sounds daft (so it must be one of mine), but consider this...
Take a crate, similar to that used by Marc Smith for Bracty Bridge , and cut out one side and the front. Make these pieces hinge from their bottom edge, so when laid flat the layout forms an L shape. Leave the back and other side in place, to retain strength and provide a back/side sce
These are the coaches after the first visit to the paint shop, lining and numbering to be done. Have you noticed they don't give you enough "W"s on the transfer sheets. I'm gonna be left with tons of left over lettering and numbering from these transfer sheets. I wonder if I can sell partly used sheets on ebay .
Just being having a look around this new site and must say am impressed with it.
Im just going to continue were we left off with the old site, there has been no work so far on track laying but I have got the boards sorted finally.
with regards Chris
By way of a comparison here is the original mineral wagon I built before I kicked off my etching project.
Palatine models baseplate
Bill Bedford w-irons
Masokits brake gear parts
Masokits door springs
Here is one I completed last night using my etched bits. Note its all a bit finer and I just need to add safety loop between push-rods and bottom door operating catch
Finally the original build, 3rd test wagon and final wagon.
The Mark 2 BFK now has an interior - unpainted so far, and the roof mostly done (needs another coat and some weathering/matting). One mystery remains first. Presumably the BFK has a periscope - but where does it go ?
Meanwhile I've also been putting together the test build of the Ultima Thompson matchboard full brake. Usefully the N gauge society has produced the rather less usual 8ft Gresley bogies this needs, as part of the rather excellent Gresley brake kit.
The only trouble
I see Coachman has started this subject in his coach blog. Not to be outdone, here's a couple of photos of an ex-LNWR push-pull diagram M15 driving trailer with a BR conversion of an ex-LMS Period II open third and a Lees breadvan (Fowler 3MT 2-6-2 tank) in charge. By all accounts, the coaches might have done better on their own! The prototype photo is by H Casserley and the model photo by me. Can you spot which is which?
The M15 is one of a series made for me by Coachman (and without which a r
Designing the cab floor attached to the frames allows the roof to be soldered on from the inside and still gives access for painting and glazing later.
The roof  is supplied as that 4th fret and is half-etched across most of its surface leaving only the rain strips on each side. I am so used to having to add rain strips from flattened wire this seems a nice touch.
However, the roof does need to be rolled/formed into shape. This is done by forming the large radius curve first by roll
Well, that is the question going through my head today. Its something that has been bugging me for quite a while now. I really wanted to do point rodding on Highclere and the stools were kinda like the 'missing link'. I managed to persuade Ivan of Southwark Bridge Models to reduce an etch of his point rodding stools down to 2mm scale and as they arrived today through the post I couldnt wait to have a go...
I think they look great but will anyone notice them? Let me know
Have been having a little play around with some basic publicity material, before our club's maestro in this department works his magic...
This attachment is just a standard word document, nothing flash...
The well known layout Manor lane came north of the border last weekend i have posted some pics on the layout topic bpard but thought i would give this a try so please bear with me, although it is a private layout it will be availible for shows under the ospices of Bonnybridge model railway club. I will add some photos and try and keep this blog uptodate. I will post some pics for your comments.As you can see DRS have taken over from EWS but will make some occasional visits to the manor for stabe
Many thanks badger. I'm afraid the building storage is very basic stuff. Each layout simply has a box (shoebox or bigger) where all the buildings "live" when a layout is not in use. A bit of bubble wrap avoids scratching. The only exception so far is the goods depot, which is permanently fixed inside the Ikea box that forms the basis for the micro layout. The boxes are stored in a large closet, and are close when I bring out a layout.
On the subject of stock sto
I've followed the developement of your layout(s) and the very informative articles you do from time to time. A while back you did one on figure storage. Could possibly do a storage article or give advice, for the rest of your buildings and any tips for ease of packing and unpacking?