To recap, the object of this exercise was to check platform clearances before finally fixing them down. The County is one of only 2 outside cylinder locos that will run my pre-WW1 layout so it was the prime candidate for the job.
The good news is that it clears, just, with about a fag paper to spare. It does hit on leaving the fiddle yard on the down line but as this is under the bridge clearance can easily be remedied by some filing in what is not a visible scenic area
A centre spacer got in the way of the compensation beams that are supplied on the etch so I replaced this with one I fettled from a Comet P4 spacer which was the correct width.
I also removed some of the lower spacer (that's there to attached the pickup working) in order to make a bit more space for the gearbox.
Latest status is that High Level hornguides fitted and the beams now in place with a suitable pivot. Gearbox has been swapped out for a High Level R
The current situation, whilst I stay at home for the duration, has given me the opportunity to progress with many outstanding layout based projects. One of the things that has been bugging me for some time has been the issue of clearances which I really need to resolve before I fixed platform and overbridge in place. The most likely risks might be Great Western outside cylinder locos. As my layout is pre WW1 one of the main candidates is the 4-4-0 Churchward County which were reputedly introd
On the workbench is a Great Western Barnum which I am building from an old Mallard kit. It will be in the BR0 raised firebox without dome format which 3222 sported around early 1910. The Mallard kit features the extended smokebox which a couple of the engines received shortly thereafter. I do not find the extended smokebox attractive so I had to chop a certain amount off the front of all the frames and footplate. This is quite a bold move as complete kits of these fetch large sums on eBay.
There has been progress on things other than GWR too. This Special DX featured early in the blog but stalled. The London Road instructions highlight an error when building in P4 in that the valance can foul the wheel crankpins. One recommended course of action is spacing out the valance further with spare fret from the etch. It also suggests slimming down the Alan Gibson wheels at the boss. I did both and still it fouled! I resorted in drastic filing just to get it running which resulted i
Chassis and wheels painted.
I am using components from the Finney Dean Goods to build this one which was designed to take a Portscap 1219 motor. I have used the Brassmasters proposed replacement of a Mashima 1220 and High Level Road Runner plus with drive extender. There is not much room to get this in particularly once you wire the motor! (I have since used thinner wire):
As mentioned in the previous blog, the next project is to try out a sprung chassis. This is partly due to my objective of achieving optimum running. This is the Comet chassis with their hornblocks and springs that I've had in the kit pile for years. It requires a massive leap of faith that the rods will line up with the wheelbase as there is no means of adjusting this unlike with soldered in hornblocks, such as High Level, that I used on the previous 2 Dean Goods. Despite this, I set the cha
It's been over 6 years since my first blog on the subject so here finally is an update on the Dean Goods situation.
Two have been seen testing goods trains on my track as I needed tender engines for the job. Both have recently acquired tenders. They are in the fiddle yards awaiting the next task.
The first, number 2306, features the rods from the initial blog, on a compensated Comet chassis. It's mainly an old Mallard kit with a narrowed footplate and some alternative parts surplus to re
Despite my good intentions of building things straight from the box, I just can't stop myself from kit bashing. So in parallel to building an LNWR Coal Engine, I am working on Coal Tanks as the plumbing is the same. Also the painting and lining should be relatively easier before I paint and line the Coal Engine.
This started out as a K's whitemetal kit but uses a London Road chassis. I have already made one chassis that works well and is my slowest runner which is probably down to th
The Coal Engine chassis is at a stage where it is ready for painting before the wheels are fitted.
I put some scrap 5" wheels on to see what size spacer I would need to eliminate side play. I also thought I would have to reposition the holes for the stretchers for the brake hangers because the frames are out. But surprisingly they are in the correct position all lying close to these oversize wheels. So the brake stretchers are correct to the rods!
My best performing loco has no side
For reference, here's an example of a drawing image I have scanned and scaled using a combination of Illustrator and Photoshop. I know the wheelbase so drew a line to that dimension and scaled the drawing to fit.
On the pasteboard above this profile of the loco is another drawing from a different source but showing the other side of the loco. That is scaled the same way and hopefully both match (well at least the wheelbase will, which is fundamental)
I like to build the running plate along with the chassis to help check for clearance. It might not be so obvious from this shot but it shows how the guard irons hold the front buffer beam in place. There is not much else to hold it. The instructions say leave 1/2 mm over on the valance at the front to fit into the slots in the buffer beam. But there are not such slots! My objective was to try to build something straight from the box. The valances are over scale. At the moment they are hold
For those who may have been missing a shot of my coupling rods, here's another set, this time for a Coal Engine from the LRM kit that's underway:
Both sets are shown mounted on my chassis jig. They matched and fitted first time. Result, or so I thought?
The guard irons on some LRM kits are designed to attach to the bodywork rather than the chassis. I guess this helps get them the correct width for OO modellers but as I model in P4, less of a problem for me. The problem I fou
Well today I have completed putting together a set of Dean Goods coupling rods which is the first job completed after an abscence of 26 or so years. These were a trial run for a set for the Special DX which is up next. Will put some images up when I have got far enough and worked out how to do it.