Another one for my new scrapyard micro layout. I wanted to try and repllicate something of the effects on the loco in the prototype photo in my previous Ruston weathering blog entry, with faded paint and overall dirt.
The buffer beams were painted in parts with an orangey-red to represent patch painting of red oxide. The entire body was given a wash of the ink that I mentioned last time and this was given a couple more washes over the fuel tank. The RUSTON plate on the front is
Earlier today and elsewhere on the interwebz, I followed a link to a so-called unboxing video. In the first two minutes I had made up my mind that it was twaddle but I stuck it out for the entire length of the video in the interests of research and can now give my review of the review. This, in fact, covers every other review that I have seen in order that you can save time in your lives that you would otherwise waste.
What is the point?
Why do these people make these rev
I haven't posted a blog entry for a long time but as I have been asked how I did the weathering on my latest project I thought here was as good a place as any to answer the question and to give some of my own personal thoughts on the subject of weathering.
I don't profess to be any kind of expert on it but what I do satisfies my own feeling of adding realism to a model and if by posting this even one person who hasn't weathered a locomotive before has a go at it then it's worthwhile,
Another scratchbuild finished. Full details in the Standard Gauge Industrial section of the forum.
The workbench is currently occupied by a commission kit build that I'm not enjoying. It's taken longer to build than I thought and I have decided that I won't do any more commissions after this. It's too much hassle and for the hours put in it simply isn't worth it.
The thermometer in the shed is showing just one degree celsius, so I'm staying in the house, today.
I haven't updated this here blog for a long time and the last time I did I had just started to play with my pantograph engraver. Since then I have used it to make various odds and ends and two complete locomotives.
Hercules - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/132699-scratchbuilding-boultons-hercules-no2/ and a Class H Manning Wardle - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.
Today I happened to be in Leeds, so I took the opportunity to call in at Pantograph Services and get a new cutter, plus have a few of the old ones that I have been given re-ground.
Earlier this evening, and with a new cutter in the machine, I tried again. I have found that rather than attempting to take several shallow cuts it is better to take one at full depth and go slowly. The resulting piece is fine this time. Actually this is the third attempt now as on the second attempt the whole cut
I have now got the machine up and running but I am not ready to produce anything yet. I have just had a go at making the running plate for one of the locos that I am working toward scratchbuilding and it hasn't turned out as well as I would have liked.
Running plate, straight off the machine.
After cleaning up, several problems have come to light as a result of my first ever use of the machine.You will notice that one of the long edges is ragged and the thin bars are not of consistent t
Ok, so it's not an eagle but a quarter of a ton of metal, a Taylor Hobson Model D engraving machine, a.k.a a profile or pantograph milling machine. It was quite a game to get it off the back of a trailer and into position in the garage. A crowbar and a couple of socket set extension bars helped. "Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough and I will move the World", as some Greek bloke once said...
It came complete with a box of tools - spanners spare drive bands etc. and table cl
If you have followed any of my recent scratchbuilds you will have noticed how I have made use of pantograph milling. Up until now I have made my own patterns but a friend has cut the parts on his machine.Tomorrow I should take delivery of my own machine, which will mean I can make parts as and when I need them and not have to reply on the goodwill of my friend, nor the 60 mile round trip to his home.
It also means that I may be able to offer my services to cut parts for other people's projec
The livery is that of the fleet of Yorkshire Engine Co. Janus diesels at the UES Aldwarke works in the mid 1980s to around 2000 and it will be finished with running number 32 from that fleet.
All that remains to be done is the application of the running number on the cabsides and possibly a British Steel logo too.
The carrier for the crown wheel is done. The wheel is fixed to the carrier by 2-part epoxy glue and the carrier has been drilled and tapped to take a 14BA grub screw, with a flat milled on the axle.The set up has been tested by sticking the two wires onto a controller and it is amazingly smooth. I have also started to assemble the cylinders, slidebars etc.
The main frames are ready for the Fitting Shop. The kit frames are crude, to say the least. The front area of the kit frames consisted of two pieces of cast whitemetal with slots to take the cylinders; a quite ridiculous design, especially when the rest has been made from milled brass. My replacement version is full-length, of course, and has locating holes for seperate cylinders, with slots to locate the motion bracket, all of which will be made from scratch.
I am not going with the gearbo
I have done a little more on the bodywork - handrail added but I have used proper brass knobs and .45mm brass wire rather than the oversize plastic knobs and coil of steel wire provided. As predicted, the pipework was destroyed in attempting to remove it from the shrink-wrap, so I have made my own from copper wire, bits of brass tubing and an etched brass wheel. I have also made rims for the spectacles on the weatherboard. The holes in the weatherboard are rather large and my thick plasticard ri
I've had this one since December last year when I took in part-exchange for a draughtsman's drawing board that I obtained for a bargain price. I had ideas of producing drawings for making patterns for profile-milling but, as it turned out, the board was rather large and the stand was solid cast iron and almost killed me getting it into the back of the van. I knew I didn't have enough room in the house to permanently keep the board indoors and the idea was to keep it in the garage and move in onl
I have buil models of the Ruston & Hornsby 48DS type in 2mm,4mm, 7mm, Gauge One and now Gauge 3. This is my first build of anything in this scale and it's hard work. The nickel silver sheet that the frames and brake components are made from is so thick and hard that I have had to abandon the usual methods of removing parts from the frets and resort to a hammer and chisel!
It will be driven by a large Mashima motor/Slaters gearbox that is usually fitted into large mainline type locos in O
I have been asked to build a tractor/loader, as per the one I built for Royd Hall. After having the base tractor since the GOG Telford show, last year, I have finally got my finger out and finished it. The whole job was to weather the tractor and to construct and fit and weather the loader.
Instead of the cast iron (turned brass) wheel ballast weights that I fitted to my own version, the owner wanted a (water or concrete-filled) oil drum on the three-point linkage at the rear. All built an
At least it looks like it could be from that far back. It's certainly ancient and it's difficult to believe that modellers had to put up with this sort of thing in the dim and distant.
This Great Eastern Neilson saddletank was given to me earlier this week. There is also a complete unbuilt kit which, if anything, is even worse. The frames on the unbuilt kit are a single-piece whitemetal casting! The half-built model and the kit are by some outfit called Nu Cast.
The model is actually ve
I have just finished this build for the same chap that I built the Ruston 48DS for. The kit is sold under the Mercian name but seems to have been created by Old Originals. It's not a difficult build but would have been easier if an exploded diagram was provided in addition to pages of written instructions.
A comission build in OO gauge. CSP (ex-Agenoria) kit.
The majority of this class of engine were built for various branches of United Steel and were copies of a Robert Stephenson & Hawthorns design with small alterations, such as the smokebox, that tell the Yorkshire versions from the RSH versions.
It was supplied with a Mashima 10/20, which is a bit small for something of this size, and a Markits single-stage 38:1 gearbox. I advised the owner to bin that off and buy a High Level gea
The Black Hawthorn, the Manning Wardle and the next couple of personal projects in the pipeline are intended to go on my yet-to-be-built late Victorian/Edwardian light railway/ mineral railway. One difficulty with fictitious industrial locations set in the times of private owner wagons is that your fictitious company can't really use RTR wagons in the liveries of real companies, so I have had a go at making my own liveries using decal paper.
I bought some cheap second hand Hornby wagons to t
I have jumped forward massively and have finished it. 5050 pressed the wheels on for me on Wednesday (thanks, Paul). I was going to post a photo of the chassis but flat batteries on my camera, and RMweb being down on Wedneday meant that I didn't and just got on with it.
I have finished it with minmal weathering - just some metalcote and a bit of rust weathering powders on the cab steps and some coal dust on the footplate and around the coal bunkers. The buffing faces have been weathered the
The cab is now on, as are all fittings, pipes and castings plus the home-made block buffers. Getting sufficient weight into something this small is always a challenge and so far only the smokebox and bunkers have been filled with lead. To enable more weight to be added in the boiler space I am swapping the provided 10/24 motor for a 10/20.
One of my own projects, for my next layout.
It is the High Level kit of a Black Hawthorn 0-4-0ST. I got the bulk of the bodywork done, yesterday, but that's always the easy part, isn't it? This kit is based on Wellington (former Holwell No.3) I am going to fit disc wheels, as on Bauxite No.2, in the NRM. Although Bauxite appears to be a slightly smaller loco I just like to be different. It will also have block buffers as these will be neccesary on the new layout, where rolling stock will be
Another comission build. This is the first time I have ever built anything in Gauge One and it's quite an eye-opener. The inner chassis is made of very thick nickel silver that completely defeated my soldering iron and I had to use the RSU. In fact I ended up soldering everything with that.
The kit is from Old Originals, whom I had never heard of before but, apparently, they don't do anything smaller than Gauge One, so I I guess that's why I've never heard of them.
And just to show