I've had considerable problems with posting photos but when I posted them to the test area they came up ok [ called Murphy's law] or something like that.
Right in part 5 you'll see 12345 listed where the photo's should be here they are in that order:-
1
2
3
4
5
Shhh it seems to have worked.
Conclusions drawn? I talk to 'kin much!!
TTFN
In my last post I showed how I constructed the connecting rods, they looked a shade too heavy so I slimmed them down a bit. Next came the tricky bit, how to secure them on the crank pins. I sought advice on the questions page and have received some very sound advice, thanks to all who contributed.
Here's a picture of the rods on one side set up with oiled cigarette papers in place ready for the 'quick dab' with the new Antex 25 watt iron.
Once the soldering was sucessfully completed I
I've fitted the Shawplan etched brass window frames, these are a replacement for the ones on the Lima version which I gather are a little on the thick side, Some of you may have encountered this at some time!
Surprisingly these fitted almost exactly into the space between the corner stanchions, I guess the drawing I worked from must have been replicated from a Lima model because the chassis I've used is a Lima one and that fitted, or rather the sides cut from the drawing fitted the Lima chassis
As I was browsing the internet one day I came across an article written by someone on the subject of locomotive wheel configurations which featured a photo of a Double Fairlie and I was quite taken by it as I'd never seen or heard of one before. I decided I'd like to try to make a model that represented the prototype in the article.
Here is one of the many pictures I subsequently found on researching the project, it's very atmospheric I think. It shows a Double Fairlie back in the days when the
I had a choice of three BR blue liveries all blue of course but they vary in the yellow panels. One type is with a small yellow end panel only, one has full yellow ends wrapping right round to include the cab door, but with black round the windscreens and thirdly the one I chose full yellow ends wrapping round but with a blue panel beneath the side windows and yellow round the front windows too.
I was a little concerned that if the doors were yellow and had to be rubbed down it would be near im
phew! I've just finished digging my way out from 10 pages down the lists. well although a lot has been happening on the house renovation front, not a lot has happened as far as model making is concerned, but here is a brief update just to dust off the shelves so to speak.
In my last post you will maybe recall (or maybe not) I had designed and cut the parts for a covered wagon using plastic card cut in a Silhouette Portrait cutter which I had assembled and more or less awaited painting. I think
With the 1308 Lady Margaret on hold awaiting nameplates I thought I'd get my next project underway. For some time I've been researching the Foxfield Railway's preserved crane tank loco.
Affectionately known throughout its life as "Dubsy" but never actually named, this locomotive was built by Dubs and Co of Glasgow in 1901 and delivered to the Shelton Iron & Steel Works in Stoke-on-Trent. It remained at Shelton Bar throughout its life. "Dubsy" was originally coal fired but was converted t
I made and fitted the buffer beams, generally filled and cleaned up the body, finally giving it a coat of primer to highlight any faults. These were rectified and the primer coat proper was applied
Well that pretty well brings this blog up to date, The loco is now in the paint shop. It was coated with 2 coats of Railmatch GWR Loco Green but that didn't look too clever so I rubbed it all down with wet and dry and resprayed it again with Humbrol #3 Brunswick Green and it no
I bought a rather dilapidated castle arts/ Gaiety GWR 57xx pannier tank model for about £4. It was in quite a sad state, the drive gear on the axle had come loose so although I got the motor to turn it couldn't transmit any power to the wheels.
The body for this model was sold at one time on its own so that it could be matched up with a RTR [Triang/Hornby chassis. After a lot of faffing around I eventually acquired a suitable chassis for it and I modified it to accept the same method for fixing
I first saw this loco on Google images, its character appealed to me together with its somewhat unusual wheel configuration, only found in locomotives built in the late 19th early 20th centuries, indeed this one being designed and built in 1902 by Andrew Barclay sons &Co.
On doing further research I found out it was built for use on the Liskeard and Looe Railway which was taken over by the GWR in 1905 where upon 1308 was transferred to Oswestry and latterly worked from Machynlleth shed from
It was as I suspected, the superglue had bonded to the poly glue and pulled it away from the plastic of the chassis. I cleaned up the surfaces with a scalpel and then filed them flat with a needle file and re-applied the superglue and they bonded . Just to make certain I stuck a square of 2mm thick plastic card across the join to reinforce the join. (1st photo)
I did a trial cut of one of the design pages using 0.5mm white card (2nd photo) mainly to check it fitted against the modified chass
I bought 3 damaged body shells on Ebay one was a dock authority shunter, one a Hornby detailed Castle [Neath Abbey] which I repaired and fitted with minimal alteration on to a 4-6-0 Hornby chassis. The third one was a cheapo Lima 0-4-0 'international' loco, they come in a train set. So this is how it started out :-
This is what I was aiming to represent :-
These USA class engines were ordered through the US Army Transport Corps during the 2nd World War from the Vulcan Ironworks
Hi,
I stumbled upon a very interesting thread here on RMweb a couple of weeks ago. The name of it was 'A guide to using the Silhouette Cameo cutter, by JCL. For those who don't know of these machines they're similar to an inkjet printer but instead of a print head they have a tiny blade which cuts designs out of a sheet of thin material which has been fed into it.
Primarily they're designed for cutting shapes out of thin card, vinyl, or paper for things like scrap booking etc, but some of the
Some time ago I bought a brake van body because i could see a certain resemblance to 'Toby the Tram' hence the title of this blog. I did some research on steam trams, gathering together a collection of images and articles on the subject. here's a photo of what I broadly wanted to achieve
I don't have a photo of the original body but here's one soon after I started mucking around with it some time last year
I fitted some half panels to the doors, filled in the place where the duckets would
Next I attached the boiler, smokebox, built up the tanks etc despite ordering a white metal chimney I made one from 5.5mm plastic tube with a drawing pin head [ pin removed] filed to size, upturned and glued on top with superglue, topped with a sliver of 5.5mm tube. The bell shape made with Squadron Green filler as per DF. I made the dome from plastic wrapped tube and filler. The safety valve cover was a plastic one from a Hornby detail pack mounted on a base fashioned from plasticard filed to c
Hi everyone,
I've been at it again although nothing much seems to change, I painted the inside of the cab where it would be difficult to access when the back and roof were on. I've added the buffer beams and square buffers, cab roof, water tank filler cap. the shaft and flywheel are to drive the crane turntable, this is driven by a cylinder and con rod situated in the right corner of the cab (see previous entry). In one photo I found online it looked like coal hadspilled out onto the cab floor
Not too much has happened since part 2, the crane is now complete and painted ready for mounting on the locomotive when it's built. I'm just in the process of making out the orders from Mainly Traiins for the various detail parts such as Alan Gibson wheels and universal coupling rods, Mashima 1220D motor and a suitable gearbox yet to be determined.
I have no experience of chassis building or fitting motors and gearboxes, this is a complete learning curve for me so it's fingers and toes crossed
Well at last it's finished, well as near as. It has now been painted in GWR freight grey and weathered to what I think it might have looked like. On checking online I had a lot of guidance on the state of some wagons when in service, on refering to some of Paul Bartletts work some wagons were virtually falling apart, I didn't want to overdo the weathering to that extent though.
See what you think,
I've ordered a sillhouette portrait vinyl cutter from Amazon which is due
I got my tin of Humbrol Matt varnish out today to dull down the smokebox and cab roof on 1308. On opening the said tin I found it had separated, the same as my Humbrol Satin varnish had done previously, rendering it as 'dodgy' to use in the airbrush.
I applied it with a brush instead and when it dried it looked somewhat streaky, so not good. Afterwards I applied 3 coats of Johnson's Kleer or Klir as it's called here in France.
Today I thought I'd try experimenting with Klir Matt a la Sleeper.
Hi everyone,
Some time has passed since my last entry mainly due to waiting for replacement wheels, the arrival of which proved too much for my computer which sadly passed away despite desperate attempts to revive it. I now have a new little notebook, I chose this because hopefully being much smaller dimension wise might follow through on the problems front, wishful thinking I'm sure.
The said notebook is French of course as that's where I'm based, French computers don't have qwerty keyboar
I've made some more progress on this model, one step forward and two steps back though.
I had almost finished this model and had it trapped between my knees while working on it and somehow it slipped out and fell nose first onto the tiled floor. This didn't do it any good, the cardboard sprung back into shape ok but the paint layer was badly cracked (see in third photo).
I made a fine file by gluing a strip of 400 grade wet and dry paper to a 5mm wide strip of plastic and fil
Well at last it's finished. After the paint had time to harden off I gave the transfer areas a coat of Kleer and then applied the transfers using HMRS sheet 15 BR blue for the inter-city arrows and the numbers too, then I applied a waterslide data panel from Replica Railways under each number and finally the overhead flash signs also waterslide, from Precision Decals, no connections etc.
This was followed by a spray coat of Humbrol satin varnish.
Once the varnish had hardened sufficiently I w
I've been researching a Southern Railway diesel electric locomotive from the years immediately prior to nationalisation in 1948 and the subsequent birth of British Railways. The loco was designated D16/2, the original design was by O V Bulleid and was built at the Ashford works in Kent.
Only 3 were ever built, sadly they were all retired in the late 60s and cut up soon after, meaning none survived into preservation.
My search for information hasn't brought much up but fortunately I found an il
I refitted the bogies to the shortened cl45 chassis to which I'd fitted some 3mm channel to form the solebar and to this I added a representation of the brackets to which the lifting lugs were attached, this was given a coat of Tamiya nato black. I cut a length of plastic tube and glued this to the underside of the roof with epoxy. This lined up with a hole drilled in the chassis through which I inserted a 12ba brass screw that tapped its own thread in the tube and held the body in place, the 3m
While I overwintered in Wales I took with me some modelling stuff, well quite a large cardboard boxful to be more precise, along with the silhouette cutter, laptop, etc. While I was there I went to the O gauge society expo in Reading and was tempted into buying a Parkside LMS brake van kit, mainly to get a feel of working in this gauge in preparation for the forthcoming CC1 mentioned in an earlier entry's comments. I was impressed by the contents of the box, although the price is a bit on the he
