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About this blog

A record of weathering work, intended to show both good and bad results, including explanations of what is used and how.

Entries in this blog

Set 732. Step 1.

A rigger brush, a thin wash and capillary action are all used to get dirt into all the edges and corners of panels, doors and windows. By dipping the brush into clean thinners (white spirit) and then into the wash (MIG Productions Dark Wash), a good volume of fluid is ready to be transferred onto the model. The inevitable large blob on the end of the brush is removed by touching the tip against the rim of the bottle and the tip is then gently touched to a corner of a panel or junction of door sh

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

A Land Rover Series 1 of indeterminate length. Step 3. Tidy Up.

Once the model has been left to dry for a short while (15 to 20 minutes) the cleaning up can begin. For models to 4mm and below scales I normally use the rigger brush slightly dampened with thinners for this operation, but with models as large as this, with larger areas to clean up, I use a very tightly bound cotton bud (intended for make-up rather than babies) without thinners. If I need to get into tight corners (such as the small panels on the cab roof on this model) then I will use the rigge

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

A Land Rover Series 1 of indeterminate length. Bonus Photograph.

Subsequent to the decision to weather a Land Rover, it occurred to me that it could be incorporated into a diorama. The vehicle operator states that Massey Ferguson tractors are sold and serviced, so a situation that incorporated a Land Rover and a Massey Ferguson tractor was envisaged.   The weathering process for the tractor was no different to that for the Land Rover, except for a little bit of glossy stuff here and there.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Peckett W4 No. 883. Step 8.

To represent soot and other associated grime that falls on horizontal surfaces, I have used Mig Productions Black Smoke pigment, applied with a filbert brush, where appropriate. This means cab roof, top of boiler, running plate, tool boxes, etc. The previous layer of Black Night PLW has helped this pigment to 'stick' to these surfaces.     I have also applied a small amount of Black Night to enhance the dirt buildup on the buffer beams.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Peckett W4 No. 883. Step 7.

Areas like the chimney, cab roof, firebox door, pipes and running plate will be dirty to some degree, even on a well-maintained locomotive. For this subject I have prepared these surfaces with some brush-on AMMO by mig Panel Line Wash (PLW) Black Night. This fluid is a very thin enamel paint, basically, and has a very small content of pigment compared with carrier. I have used it here to introduce a small build-up of dirt around the chimney top and base, the cab roof, the pipework and the runnin

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Peckett W4 No. 883. Step 3.

Further paint is removed so that the wheels can be shown as relatively clean but oily. The brush was dipped in white spirit and the wheels turned by faithful PP9 battery.   At a later stage the wheels and motion will be treated with a fluid that gives a wet, oily appearance, but the white spirit needs to be given time to evaporate completely.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Peckett W4 No. 883. More preamble.

After searching at least 10 books for usable photographs I have managed to find a few that allow me to establish which parts of a cared for locomotive are cleaner than the rest. I thought that Gordon Edgar's wonderful books would help, but subsequently realised that a lot of the photographs that might have helped were re-touched black and white ones. Note that this is not a criticism! I have found many other photographs of small industrial locomotives that have provided clues about colour and pl

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Set 732. Summary.

A coat or two of Railmatch Frame Dirt mixed with Weathered Black has been airbrushed over the ends of each coach, graduating the colour from darker at the top to lighter at the bottom. No tiger stripes, just a gradual change of tone.   All but finished now, just remains to add some lighter colouring to the footboards where feet fall. I'll use MIG Productions Rubbel (sic) Dust for that - just a touch applied with a filbert brush.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Set 732. Step 6.

The roof has been airbrushed with a mixture of Railmatch Weathered Black and Roof Dirt to represent a well-used example. Care was taken to avoid paintless shadows behind the torpedo vents by painting those areas first. Only once the vents and surrounding roof were painted did the process move on to the remainder of the roof.   If airbrushing the roof of a ready-to-run coach, when the roof is not easily removed, a card mask can be used to protect the sides from overspray while this is b

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Set 732. Step 5.

When the whole underframe had been airbrushed it looked too pale, so I added some Railmatch Weathered Black to the mixture and airbrushed a thin coat of the new colour combination over the top of the previous layer. In this photograph you ought to be able to see that the left hand end of the chassis looks a bit darker than the right hand end, which has yet to be completed.   The roof has been removed for painting, something which is not usually possible with ready to run coaches. With

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Set 732. Step 4

A recycled piece of protective foam strip from a worktop is used while airbrushing the underframe. This helps access to the inside underframe details on the opposite side of the coach to the one I'm painting.   The whole of the underframe will now be treated to a thin coat of Railmatch Sleeper Grime, starting with the bogies. The air flow from the airbrush is used to turn the wheels and paint is then ejected for long enough to coat the whole wheel as it turns.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Set 732. Step 3.

The application of dark wash to panel edges has been allowed to dry for at least 15 minutes. You can see from the photographs below that the colour has lightened and the white spirit has evaporated.   To remove blobs and other unwanted paint after application surpluses, I use the rigger brush dipped in clean white spirit and gently lay the bristles as flat as I can against the areas to be treated. By moving the tip of the brush around, I can absorb the only-just-dry paint from the appr

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

Set 732. Step 2.

The process continues. When hardly any fluid transfers from the brush to the panel corner, it is time to replenish the brush with thinner and wash. However hard you try there will inevitably be blobs appearing in some of the panel corners. Leave them! They can be dealt with later - at least 15 minutes later. Don't worry (at this stage) about uneven application, either, it will all be sorted in a subsequent step.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 4.

Getting tools prepared. As already mentioned, the airbrush to be used is an Iwata HP SB Plus, with a 0.2mm nozzle for fine control when working close up. I'll be utilising this airbrush's ability to come in close and only cover small areas at a time.   The glass dish contains clean white spirit, as does the plastic bottle to the left. The former is used during the mixing of paint to achieve the necessary consistency and the latter will be used to keep the internals of the airbrush clea

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 22.

To increase the level of accumulated dirt around the bodyside doors, some more pigment (MIG Productions Black Smoke) has been added with the filbert brush. By using small quantities again, the effect has been kept to a minimum. A little has been dragged downwards from the cab window and from the sloping top of the fuel tank. The cab roof has been treated and so has the area around the bottom of the oil filters. In all cases it has been just enough to disturb the even surface produced by using th

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 21.

The oily locations need to be made oily.   I have used AK Interactive Fresh Engine Oil through the airbrush to add the oily shine to appropriate areas - axle boxes, bodyside filters and chassis areas. The photograph shows the application while still wet - it will lose some of the shine by the time it dries.      

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 20.

I felt that more discolouration was needed around the bodyside filters and the axle box areas. More pigment has been applied to these areas to achieve this, and the same method used as before.   MIG Productions pigments (shown in this blog) are now out of production, but the same colours are available from Abteilung 502 in the same shaped pots but with different labels.      

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 18.

The main work has been done, and the airbrush can be set aside for a few steps.   Weathering powders, or pigments as I tend to call them, come in a great variety of textures and colours. The ones that work best for me are from military modelling ranges and are exceedingly finely ground. This enables the particles to fall into the lower reaches of the matt surface's layer(s) and stay there beyond the reach of fingers and other abrasive effects. In this case I'm using MIG Productions col

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 17.

The roof has been fixed. Not quite the same shade of dirt as the rest of the roof, but that is not a problem, because another layer will be applied at a later stage to tie it all together.   This view of the other side shows up the effects of darkening areas affected by oily spillage (around axleboxes) and not controlling overspray to simulate dirt accumulation (areas just above the running plate).  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 14.

Holiday over and back to work.   The airbrush has been loaded with a small quantity of AK Interactive Engine Oil in order to replicate the oily residue at the bottom of the filters. I have masked off the underframe while doing the filter area, just a piece of card laid against the running plate. Only a very small area has been thus affected on this particular locomotive.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 11.

The next step is to randomly remove some of the paint to portray a buildup of grime around things like coupling hook, bolt heads and pipe connectors. This is achieved by using a slightly damp brush, and by that I mean a couple of drops of thinner placed on the bristles rather than dipping the brush into the thinners. The brush is then used in a stabbing motion, rather than a stroking motion, to slowly and gently remove the paint. If it all comes off straight away, your brush is too wet!  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 10.

Buffer beams get very dirty, even on slow moving stock, so this needs to be portrayed on a model for it to look right. This build-up of grime is portrayed by several coats of (in this case) frame dirt, added a little at a time and manipulated before it gets too dry. These photographs show the first coat to be applied - just a thin application that barely shows up.    

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 8.

The frame dirt has now been airbrushed onto the frames as well, taking some care not to get overspray onto the body. This is not critical, but it helps to keep extra work to a minimum if I decide to spray the bodywork a significantly different shade of filth. With the locomotive upside down in the cradle, it is quite easy to ensure that the underneath of the running plate is covered. The accuracy of the airbrush also helps to keep unwanted paint off the wheel treads.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 6.

Round to the other side of the chassis now. Same process, but you can see where the last rotation of the wheel has yet to be sprayed. Still no masking, and the small spray area resulting from coming up close has kept the overspray off of most of the frames. Turning the wheels with the battery is still keeping the backs of the wheels clear because the wiping action of the pickups is removing the still wet paint.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 5.

The first few coats of paint have been applied. Each coat consists of a pass across the chassis to apply a very light coat of paint. This only results in a very slight discolouration of the wheels, or at least those parts of the wheels that show above the frames. The wheels are then turned a quarter of a turn using the battery and the exercise is repeated.   You can see in the accompanying picture that there is still one small area on each wheel that needs to be covered. You can also s

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick


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