I know it's been a while, but the weather has been good so gardening and mucking about with my car took priority.
Finally I have made the extended tank tops and filed them down to fit. First photo shows the tops glued together and a card template I made to help with the fitting to the much wider 9F boiler.
A large file was used to knock them down to size - not one of those tiny little things that we modellers mostly prefer. Here's a shot of the body with ta
As I've mentioned before, I bought the 9F donor knowing it was on the Mazak rot list. It was sold without the tender so there was a good chance that the tender chassis had suffered, but I might have got away with the motor fixings.
The tell tale signs were there and so I ordered a few sets from Hornby for a couple of quid each. This is what I found when I took the front one off
As I said, expected and a cheap fix thankfully. They were coming of
Once the bunker was fixed in place the underside of the loco needed to be sorted. Main problem is that the main body fixing on the 9F is through the bottom of the chassis into a boss under the cab floor. A floor that is no longer there as we are using the 4MT cab.
After a lot of thought the following pic shows what I came up with
A section of 4MT floor under the cab area with the 9F boss turned down in height and bonded on, with extra sections from the other
A class 9 loco with class 4 coal capacity was never going to work, also the twin axle rear bogie kicked out beyond the rear buffer beam. The end of the bunker was cut off where the footstep indentations were on the bunker tops and then slits cut to separate the sides from the coal load and supporting structures. Two scrap bits of plastic were cut to the right size to splay out the sides so they were parallel and more supports glued in to hold them. A steel rule clamped to one side helped to get
So, one loco drive Hornby 9F, plus two GBL 4MTs were attacked with a razor saw.
There's a lot of bits....
Here's all that is left of the 9F body
And I've cut and shut two sections of tank and cab from the two GBL Class 4s to make this
Also been experimenting with a Triang Princess bogie for the rear. If this works ill replace the wheels with larger more prototypical ones and this will set how long the bunker needs to be
A spoof photoshopped photo posted on Facebook has coincided with me having a Triang Evening Star with a disintegrated tender frame going for spares. So ladles and Jellyspoons, we have the BR Standard 9MT Tank Engine
Black outline is the stock 9F, red the 4MT Tank. Green is the extended tanks and bunker (well it is a 9F) which also moves the rear pony to a more suitable place. The blue line is where the bottom of the tank front needs to be raised to clear the weighshaft and line
This week I have been looking at a NRM Limited Edition Schools class 925 Cheltenham. It was sent to me along with several other DCC locos as a non-runner and the body fixing screw was loose. Problem being it had been packed inside its box without the inner tray, wrapped in a small amount of bubble wrap. Clearly it had moved around in the box quite a bit during postman's playtime (sent Special Delivery) and this is what I found when I unwrapped it ...
What to do when your 13 year old takes a shine to an old Atlas loco at the Mansfield Model Railway show. Prize out the Kaydees and glue in some spare NEM pockets. He likes the big old style couplings so we have standardised on them. Plenty of spare small Bachmann style ones for me
Well, you'd have thought I'd have spotted that there was a short circuit way before I got to wiring up the turntable - HND Electrical & Electronic Engineering pah!
Of course having the two entries to the turntable and the desk permanently live means a dead short when you align it to one or the other entry roads. Something had to be done, I thought about insulated joints etc but decided to remove the problem altogether by making the longer curved entry into a siding and removing t
So another damp cold Saturday allowed me to get all the track laid on the centre board. The adjustment the screws allowed for at the baseboard joints worked really well - allowing for the differences in alignment that somehow crept in between mine and Santa's workshops
Just need to wire up the centre board and then we at least have a layout for the Mansfield Show Didn't take long for George to move in though ...
The lack of power does not deter
George's train set whilst operational had it's issues. The main one was the need for the S bends on the centre board.
This was because the layout was originally just two 4 x 2 ft boards with an oval across the corners to maximise the run length. When the centre board was added by Santa it had to have the curves to make everything join up.
All those curves meant that my APT-E would not run and even the baseboard joints on curves gave the occasiona
The Hymek took a turn on Fourgig East at the Mansfield show and after a few initial hiccups performed well. I quickly learned that due to the large overhang the loco could not shunt wagons in the goods sidings - buffer lock was the order of the day. So one of the shunters took over these duties whilst the Hymek simmered next to the camping coach.
Traction was also an issue, ok on the straights but couldn't get more than two wagons and the brake van into the goods loop. It was happier on pass
Thought it was time for an update.
I've lowered the loco on it's bogies by removing material from the bogie pivot - the thickness of two washers, so about 1.5 to 2mm. These washers sit inside under the shoulder screw to compensate.
JLTRT couplings have been assembled, just need to chemically blacken them and get them fitted
Green stripe has been airbrushed on using Humbrol 36 and electrical tape for a nice clean masked edge - a trick #1 son picked up from his Nerf gun modding
As most people (me included) will spend their time looking down on the Hymek I thought that the roof deserved more attention than say the underframe. Sadly this is the weakest part of the Triang model, apart from the roof section joins everything else is either wrong or missing!
So first to the fan grille, which should be offset by quite a margin. Existing grille filled and flattened and then a card template made with a 38mm hole fixed in place to mark out the new hole
I have bought
cabs are now painted, small amount of fettling to do but basically waiting for the body to be complete then satin varnish and glazing/wipers. Here's a couple of shots of it as it stands at the moment. Must get on with that roof!
Big thanks to Paul Chetter, a parcel arrived this morning with a Zimo sound chip and a selection of speakers to try to see which sounds best in the Hymek. Liking the look of the big round one to go under the fan
Also cab roofs are getting there, vents are in place, just need the airhorns then I can get them painted
EDIT: Cab roofs fitted out and painted, couldn't resist adding the pipework to the horns ....
Progress over Christmas The main body is painted, just need to add handrails and buffers etc. Cab roofs are stripped of details and are waiting for new roof vents and air horns.
Main progress has been the bogies, pickups added and wired up so it now moves under its own power!
Wheelslip is a big issue but once I've added a couple of pounds of lead it should be fine
One thing I have been doing over the summer is making #2 son's first layout. Quite refreshing bunging down set track!
It started as a 1st and 2nd rad loop set across the corners of two 2x4 boards using my now familiar dowels and toggle clamps. Power transferred from one board to another via the clamps.
Santa is bringing him a centre board with turntable and engine shed
So he can still have the simple 2 boards for a quick play or all three on a weekend (and Dad has a te
Quick update from yesterday's progress:
Bogies have met the razor saw and the front section that carries the coupling have been removed. A strip of plastikard replicating the rib at the other end for strength.
Pickups next and a 10mm hole for access to the new roof fixings in the undriven one.
I've also cemented in small sections to the body sides where the switches used to be and cleaned, lubed and test run the original power bogie - noisy by modern standards but at the sp
Well I am steadily gathering parts together. Big thanks to Lord Flashheart for donating TWO spare drive bogies - I now have loads of possibilities should I need more traction
I've also taken delivery of some A1 Models air horns and some lovely sprung buffers from NMRS-Models.
The cleaning up of the bodyshell is continuing and I'm thinking of how to attach the roof now that the fixing holes have been filled in - I would prefer to retain the removable roof rather than bond it in place as
Been a while but here's the start of another budget loco build for Fourgig East - A Triang Big Big Hymek.
I bought a pretty good example for £39 from eBay and the process of converting it to a running O gauge loco has started.
First off the raised lettering on the side has been scraped off and the moulded handrails removed. I've also filled in the fixing holes on the roof and fixed a crack. The switch assembly has been removed ahead of filling in the body sides.
The plan is to r
One thing that has been evident from operating my O guage layout Fourgig East at shows is that my makeshift uncoupling hook for 3-link couplings is a bit, well, poor, and I only have one of them so operators have to share!
Having seen 3 Link of this parish's "key idea" ( http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/50279-o-gauge-auto-couplings/&do=findComment&comment=579380) I thought I'd have a go. I first made a plastic mock-up with 1mm sheet and a bit of tube that I squirrele
I have another 8F to do a sound fitting so I thought i'd show how I fit the excellent ABS-230 speaker in the tender
First remove the weight and prise off the plastic supports. using a razor saw cut down the rear weight fixing pillar flush. Drill some holes in front and behind the centre wheels. Cement in two small fillets of 1mm plastikard to seal the bottom of what will be the output chamber for the speaker - a couple of nicks in the corners will allow the pickup wires to pass through.
So I finally got it finished
Pretty pleased with the finish, could be better but having the drill press made the machining of the case loads easier One thing I would do different, and this goes out to anyone else who is contemplating building one of these bits of kit is that the LEDs are mounted on the track side of the pcb. This makes them very prone to being caught during subsequent handling and wiring up which cracks the pcb track!
I should have drilled a couple more holes in th