Some progress on the tender. Basic chassis is soldered up and ready for pickups, dragbox and NEM pocket sorting.
I've also been detailing the body, adding wire handrails and brake handles. I've also added the brass strips on the top of the coal space and fixed in a section from a scrap tender to replace the broken corner of the top lip at the front of the coal space (see where I've sanded down etc in the second photo - the replacement bit is black plastic too)
I want to produce
Final few shots of the DJH Duke before it goes back to it's owner ready for Xmas day
Pretty pleased with the finish and the Narrow Planet plates look as good as ever. That's the workbench cleared (nearly) ready for the two Golden Arrow Crosti 9Fs to be finished in the new year
A spoof photoshopped photo posted on Facebook has coincided with me having a Triang Evening Star with a disintegrated tender frame going for spares. So ladles and Jellyspoons, we have the BR Standard 9MT Tank Engine
Black outline is the stock 9F, red the 4MT Tank. Green is the extended tanks and bunker (well it is a 9F) which also moves the rear pony to a more suitable place. The blue line is where the bottom of the tank front needs to be raised to clear the weighshaft and line
Following a delivery of nuts and screws from EE's yesterday much progress ensued last night
We have rear pony soldered up and installed, axle bearings soldered in place, all frame spacers fixed, motion bracket test fitted and cylinder framing screwed in place.
Here's a photo of the loco sitting on the drawing, which pleasingly seems to have everything lining up so far
and here's a front 3/4 view
Keen observers will see that the drivers cannot be fitted at axle #2 pos
So, the little coach has made another step towards completion. All the HMRS transfers have been applied and the end strapping has been painted black.
Some pipework to attend to, all the brasswork (handles etc) to add then it should be ready for varnish
OK, new year's eve and a package arrived from Mainly Trains today, complete with these beauties
21mm drivers, 13mm tender and rear pony wheelsets and a 12mm wheelset for the front bogie. I have just about all the components to hand now to start the chassis construction. Ramrig is lending me a tender drive brit so I can trace the chassis - I need to make sure my scratchbuilt one will fit the bodyshell
Took a few moments whilst waiting for our chinese meal to arrivew to fit the whee
Here's a quick snap of the Sentinel as it stands this lunchtime
All I need to add is the "RA 1" lettering (will have a dig around in the transfers box tonight) and then it's varnish time
I am going to have a go at oil finishing the steel buffers, not done this since school, but I have a blowtorch and some nice dirty engine oil - what can possibly go wrong
I've been dropping a few status updates about this build and have been talking to Wenlock of this parish about the kit and some of the shortfall in the instructions. Pictures were requested so I thought I'd better get a blog entry going
So the chassis is more or less done, footboards are waiting for a delivery from Eileens as the 8" Hold and Fold does not come with a centre screw and does not hold the full length of the etch well enough as it stands. Buffer housings will complete the job p
Basic rivetting is complete on the 7mm Sentinel and sealed under satin black. I am going to add the extra detail on the cab and tank sides but not today
Next step I suppose is to start to get to grips with that Bob Moore lining pen or wimp out and use HMRS pressfix ...
Loco body all lined out and I've picked out some of the pipework in very much the same way as Hornby do on their current Britannias - although I've used a light grey for the lagging rather than white. I think this looks more subtle.
Yes, this is the deflector that got superglue over it and needed rubbing back and respraying as revealed on one of my status updates Those Narrow Planet plates do look the dogs
And finally, a quick shot of the cab showing the cream roof a
The Class 3 tank engine sitting on my shelf gathering dust has been bugging me for some time. A somewhat impulse buy when I happened across Trains4U whilst around Peterborough with work.
I didn't need it to complete the collection, I have my old faithful Triang/Hornby example that was really what got me "into" BR Standards.
So, about that gap in my collection - the Class 3 Mogul 77xxx. Recent eBay bargains brought me an Airfix 76xxx kit and a Bachmann BR2 tender for less than 20 quid. S
OK, the decision seems to have been made. The Airfix kit and Bachmann tender appeared yesterday and last night I offered up various bits of kit to the chassis and boiler.
There is a difference in mould quality, I had hoped that by using an original airfix kit the plastic might be crisper than the Dapol kit, oh well.
A few issues to consider:
The motor is wider than the outside dimensions of the firebox lower/ashpan
The nice painted backhead does not fit the airfix footplate - and t
I've finally got round to finishing the lining on the Duke of Gloucester - prompted by Narrow Planet sending me the proof for the plates which have now been paid for and will be away at the etchers soon.
As soon as the plates are painted and in place the whole loco will be varnished then I can get it back together for an ex-works photo shoot. It will probably get a "2 weeks into service" weathering after that.
I also have a DJH example in for refurbish, well, rebuild chassis wis
I've been making a few postings over the forum over the last few days asking for help with horn sounds etc for the class 15 and thanks to the preservation society's voutube channel I have managed to capture and chop around using Audacity to give me a couple of horn sounds. These were added to a standard ESU 16 cylinder diesel project.
I know that it will not sound anything like the real thing, apart from the fact it's a disesel but hey, until the real thing is restoreed to running this is t
Thanks to Dave Holt for pointing out a glaring error that resulted in a massive gap between the rear driver and the firebox/ashpan. Turns out that I made a last minute change to the frame drawing when I compared the tracing with that of a Comet Britannia chassis. This threw the whole chassis forwards by approx 2mm (6" in the real world), but meant that the cylinders were at least in the correct place on the chassis.
So last night I unsoldered the rear mounting from the frames and repositione
well, for now at least.
All the main components are in place and plumbed up
Handrails and the regulator linkages next then it's probably deflectors.
The chassis needs revisiting as the lubricator supports are still missing and I'd like to add the sandbox filler tubes and possible a sandbox or two between the frames - all fixed to the boiler lower. I've plenty of exhaust steam pipe left to add a representation of it emerging from between the frames up to the running plate
Ok, there wasn't really any doubt that I would have to shorten the body of the 2-8-2 was there?
so, after some careful marking out with my trusty Rotring compass/dividers, having worked out the cut width of the razor saw, two vertical cuts were made in the smokebox between the chimney and boiler join (note slight over cut with the saw marking the running plate )
The cuts were made here to preserve the rivet detail and superheater at the boiler join. Further cuts through the runnin
As I mentioned in the comments of the last entry the cylinders got soldered up the other night. Well now they are fitted to the chassis
I had to add a small amount of packing to the front edge to get the correct angle for them. The original chassis design was based on a Comet Britannia front end so the angle was not quite right. A single strip of scrap etch from the cylinders kit was perfect.
Here's a shot of the loco with the body on
Note the cylinders are slightly too far
A few productive evenings has the coach up to the point of paint (nearly!)
just got the gas control gear to add to the non-step end and that's about it until it's painted. I hope to get to the Derby Show to pick up some paint, so progress will halt at this point for a few weeks. I'd better get on with the layout
I've added the luggage racks but as yet have not raided my wife's wardrobe for some "mesh" as alluded to in the instructions! Some cheap seated figures are on their wa
Quick snap of '023 in an almost state of readiness for the paint shop.
Just got the undercab footstep to fabricate - I've ordered some Evergreen 1.5mm angle which should arrive next week. The fiddly bits have served as a good practice for the other one I am building for a member and '023 will wait in this condition until I have worked the commission one up to a similar point.
The plan is to deliver both to Dave Roome at the Doncaster Show for weathering, so I'd better get my finger
Thought it was time for an update.
I've lowered the loco on it's bogies by removing material from the bogie pivot - the thickness of two washers, so about 1.5 to 2mm. These washers sit inside under the shoulder screw to compensate.
JLTRT couplings have been assembled, just need to chemically blacken them and get them fitted
Green stripe has been airbrushed on using Humbrol 36 and electrical tape for a nice clean masked edge - a trick #1 son picked up from his Nerf gun modding
Am I glad I fitted the return crank/eccentric rod before anything else.
It doesn't connect to the expansion link too well at all, in fact by 2mm
Looking again at the drawing (a lot!) leads me to the conclusion that the motion bracket/weighshaft needs to move back. The weight drawing of course shows a Britannia type bracket and I'm using a 9F one and there are differences.
One advantage of all this rework is that the valve rod will not need shortening and clearances underneath the
Finally, I have some real frames. First I cut two pieces of copperclad pcb material to size then spray glued a copy of the frame "comic" to the top piece. These were then clamped to some 12mm mdf. Holes were bench drilled to take some 4ba screws right through the sandwich to secure everything once the clamp was removed.
1.6mm pilot holes were drilled through at the axle locations. I've done this so that I can use crankpins fitted in the mdf as a jig for setting up the coupling rods. As the f