Finally, I have some real frames. First I cut two pieces of copperclad pcb material to size then spray glued a copy of the frame "comic" to the top piece. These were then clamped to some 12mm mdf. Holes were bench drilled to take some 4ba screws right through the sandwich to secure everything once the clamp was removed.
1.6mm pilot holes were drilled through at the axle locations. I've done this so that I can use crankpins fitted in the mdf as a jig for setting up the coupling rods. As the f
Enough fiddling, it's ready for paint! I've shot a quick Youtube vid so you can view in it 360 degrees. At least in it's unpainted state you can see where I've been
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN_LS_eDpVc
Don't let SWMBO find out what I've been doing with her rotating spice rack
FInally got the tender pickups done. Used a whole length of EE's 0.35mm phosphor bronze wire to give me these fancy springy coiled backscratchers
They are soldered to two bus bars made from double sided copper clad PCB material (thanks JZ for the offcuts with your sleeper panels!) These were low melt soldered to the chassis frame on the underside then the pickup springs soldered to the top.
Took a lot of fiddling and repositioning to get them right, you can't see it but the en
Some of you may have seen my questions in the main forum about rear tender footsteps on this loco. Well, a couple of evening's fiddling with 3mm brass strip and a soldering iron has given me a fair representation of said steps.
Don't worry about the roughened area around the base of the step, it's where I've glassfibred away some cyano overspill
So all that's left to do is fabricate the tool tunnel and maybe open up the corresponding hole in the tender front bulkhead. Not sure ab
The main construction fo the tender is done. All the Comet bits are soldered together and the tender body is just waiting for a final fettle (adding small plasticard bits for the ladder to rest on) and fabrication of the rear steps if I decider to add them.
Here's a few shots of the chassis just wanting final fitting of the NEM pocket (and then the vac pipes etc) and pickups.
Pickups will be "backscratcher" type from above mounted on two strips of copperclad solder
Some progress on the tender. Basic chassis is soldered up and ready for pickups, dragbox and NEM pocket sorting.
I've also been detailing the body, adding wire handrails and brake handles. I've also added the brass strips on the top of the coal space and fixed in a section from a scrap tender to replace the broken corner of the top lip at the front of the coal space (see where I've sanded down etc in the second photo - the replacement bit is black plastic too)
I want to produce
Well folks, I've made a start in reality rather than just buying bits and planning. The 2-8-2 is under way
Comet tender frame soldered up and fits the Triang tender body like a dream
Keen eyes will notice the tender body has had all the moulded handrails removed and also I've removed the (damaged) lip from the top of the coal space. I'll glue 20 thou' brass strip on the top surface to sort this once the body has been stripped of all paint.
Next steps is the tender chassis whic
Over the last few days I have been putting together this for my "Missing" Standard 8F:
Basically the chinese built 5 pole tender drive was incompatible with Peco code 75 turnouts, the 3 way especially. I tried removing the centre wobbly wheels and set the b2bs to 14.4mm (which then needed the wheels shimming to maintain gear mesh!) but then I looked at the way the Crosti 9F just ran at shows without fuss and I remembered the old drive that originally came with the 9F.
It's basically
Well, ok, it's not quite finished, just need to add Brian at Shawplan's excellent etched windscreen wipers, but apart from that it's done.
Took a lot of fiddling round the edges, getting it to run round rad 2 curves, re-doing the chassis to loco fixings, shimming the fixings so that it sits level etc etc etc.
marker lights have been done by drilling them out 2mm then a slight countersink with a 3mm drill. Finally a blob of clearfix provides the lens.
Runs smooth with a Bachmann
Thanks to Ramrig for the loan of a tender drive brit (so the frames I make will fit the Hornby body) I now have a "comic" for the 2-8-2 frames.
It's a hybrid of 3 different sources, the Hornby Brit chassis, the original cox drawing of the 2-8-2 and Comet's Brit frames for the better front end and cylinder mountings.
Plan is to tidy it up and glue a copy to some PCB material and cut out 3 sets, drilling the pilot holes for the axles in one go to provide a jig (the 3rd copy) for the c
One side done, ready for handrails and varnish
Bit of a disappointment that the Fox nose plates (the ones under the fake headlamp) are too long for the Dapol body, not sure who is at fault, but I've had to trim the "The" and "Ltd" off the ends to get them to fit
Hand rails are going to be made from Hornby steel handrail wire, I'm going to have to fabricate some form of jig/gauge to make sure they are all the same length (two sizes), b ut it's getting there
EDIT: Both si
Craftsman whiskers and side stripes are starting to be applied along with some of the Fox plates
Note also the tasteful application of A1 models horns (thanks Brian at Shawplan) fitted using split pins around the rear portion of the horn and pushed though 1mm holes in the roof. Silver paint will be toned down once the matte varnish is applied
Also found the Craftsman wipers that should have been fitted to the Lima DP1, must get them painted and glued in place sometime ......
Well havn't I been busy whilst the forum was down. The Lima/Crafstman DP1 is finished and ready to find a new home
To confirm the spec:
Lima Deltic Craftsman conversion kit (minus etched whiskers and side stripes)
Fox waterslide whiskers and sidestripes (the ones with the black edging)
SE Finecast flushglaze with cab door windows using Humbrol Clearfix
Paint: Humbrol Deltic Blue and grey primer protected with Krylon Matte Coat
Pretty pleased with this one, if I can
I thought I'd get a quick update in before the server goes down ...
Both bodies are now blue, the Lima one is well on the way to getting it's Fox transfers applied. I'll post pics once we are on the new server.
Airbrushed the Dapol body today and I'm pretty pleased. Think it might do with another quick waft. My proper airbrush arrived today, don't think I'll be able to use it until my birthday in June though
Might get this loco done for the Nottingham Show yet
Whilst waiting for the deltics to turn blue I've spent some time on the "loco coal" wagon for Summat Colliery. As I said before I've followed David Spencer's article in issue 06 of Hornby Mag (loosly) and have arrived at this:
Real coal over a lot of lead make it a heavy little wagon now, so should run well at Warwick/Nottm/Mansfield shows.
I think a little bounce sprayed weather black on the underpinnings should finish it off
Who would have thought that I would have heaped s
Well, both DP1s are sat ready for their blue top coats, chassis done and running. So my mind wandered to the finishing touches..
As I used to work for a gauge company I thought it would be nice to paint the fuel level gauges at least on my Dapol/Bachmann version, then I thought of a better way.
Thanks to sir haydn for supplying me with this picture
after a bit of processing to crop out detail and adjust the exposure to take account of the reduction in scale by 1/76 gives me thes
So here it is the Dapol/Bachmann/A1 combo primed ready for painting
Love those A1 grilles. Now all I need is someone with an airbrush and lets see if they can be finished for the Warwick show, or maybe the Nottm Show
If anyone wants to take the Lima version off my hands then it will be in "Bring and Buy Corner" on Summat Colliery at a forthcoming show
Something about the Dapol/Bachmann DP1 did not look right. Only when I put the Lima body back on it's chassis did I realise that the Dapol body was far too high, buffers were a good 2mm up on what they should be Easy job to file off the ridges on top of the Bachmann chassis.
Then I looked at the bogies, they overhung the front and the steps were 2.5mm out of line with the doors. Ideally I would have liked to have moved the bogie pivots back but this would have been an almightly job not wit
Lima body is all primed and ready for the blue paint
I now need to get the Dapol/A1 body to the same state of readiness
Once the blue paint is on I have a decision to make. Should I nick the nice Craftsman etched whiskers and side stripes for my Dapol/Bachmann/A1 version and use the Fox transfers on the Lima/Craftsman one? :icon_e_confused:
Also, how am I going to stick the etches on? I could do with some kind of slow setting superglue .......
Been busy adding some of the Craftsman kit to the prepped Lima bodyshell, the main constituents are in place, grilles, nose lights etc. The "whiskers" and body stripes will be applied after painting the body.
As you can see I've started on the sandbox fillers which are very time consuming to do. First a 2x4mm hole needs making in the body then the etched part folding in a off-centre V shape. This is then inserted in the hole and glued in place. Any etch left sticking proud is filed off
Here's the Lima bodyshell stripped of all it's nose detail ready for the conversion kit bits to be added.
I've given it a quick waft of primer to make sure all is smooth, which highlighted a crack in the roof that I did not know about - EMA Plastic Weld to the rescue
Quick before and after, I've started removing the detail from the nose ends of a much played with (by me!) Lima Deltic ready for application of the Craftsman DP1 conversion kit. Note poorly applied white window surrounds that will have to be stripped back before painting and holes drilled in the headcode boxes for some long since gone home made directional lighting ....
Before
After
Anyone want a spare "Meld" nameplate, only got the one, send an SAE and I'll pop it in the p
After some more surgery with the razor saw (not a lot left of the original tanks now!)and some internal supports cemented in which were cut from sections of the Dapol floor, the body and chassis are finally joined to my satisfaction
The body is held in place really well with the "handrail" clip but I will re-use the nose end screws as a bit of belt and braces.
So, a bit of filling, fitting of the roof horns and the bodyside grilles and it's ready for a coat of primer.
I've start
Chassis matched up to the Dapol body at last
needed to nip a little bit out of the chassis sides to clear the angular webs that link the Dapol tanks to the body sides and then used a bit of Hornby handrail wire bent in a long C section inserted into two 0.6mm holes in the Dapol tanks to hold the sides in place. I will add a keeper plate over this wire secured with screws to the underside to stop the wire from dropping out in service. The fit is so good that I am minded to not bother wit
