So here it is again, I've just painted the motor and it blends in pretty well. I still might make some fill panels sometime if the small amount of daylight visible bugs me too much ....
Here's the underside showing the "gearbox"
I've also refreshed the couplings, a few have commented in the past that the 3 links were out of scale so I had a few links left over from the Ivor build which have been put to good use
I did a test run yesterday of just the chassis on a bit of
All ready for use on Fourgig East at this weekend's Mansfield Show the pug now sits in it's BR black livery. Transfers are HMRS pressfix and my usual several coats of Precision satin varnish.
Windows have been glazed using Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze, used it for the first time since buying it at the BRM show Doncaster and am very happy with the result, works way better than Humbrol ClearFix which is now in the bin
It will have a light "preserved" weathering at some point and I
Seems to be the time for painting this week, thanks to all the advice from Buckjumper (on here and in his mag article) the O gauge Pug body is prepped for primer. I bought some "Bar Keepers Friend" from Amazon (other internet retailers available) and with a cheapo kids electric toothbrush (spiderman) and some work with scrapers, fibreglass brush and wet-or-dry stuck to coffee stirrers we have this:
Next step a few coats of primer, then see if any filling etc needs doing. I'll get some f
And lo the primer was warmed on the radiator and applied to the shiny brass
There's one or two bits that could do with a touch of filler, so will wait until next week now until after the BRM SHow at Doncaster (see you all there!)
It won't do any harm for the primer to harden off over the weekend anyway
I managed a few hours over Christmas to get the chassis painted and over the last two evenings I've got it running again!
Pretty pleased with the neat phosphor bronze pickups which should blend in pretty well with some black paint later. The rods are VERY sloppy and there is a bit of a stick due to this. To get an idea of the problem the crankpins (threaded screws) have an outside diameter of 1.6mm. The holes in the rods are 2.2mm! I've found some 1.6mm i/d tube with an o/d of 2.4mm so
Even though it was originally green when I bought it, the Pug is now resplendent in it's BR black livery
Bit of touching up needed around the red buffer beams and the cab interior. Whistle needs to be "brass" and then it's ready for varnish. Must get on with the DCC decoder/StayAlive ready for the Mansfield Show next month
Following on from a help topic here the O gauge pug has progressed to the point where the chassis is ready for paint after a bit of a clean up
Now all the paint is off the loco body I think this is an etch, although the chimney is hand made. The chassis is scratchbuilt, you could see the marking out for the axles on one chassis plate and not on the other. The chassis has been detailed with some PH Designs etched brakes left over from the Sentinel project and I've added the brake pull ro
Loco body all lined out and I've picked out some of the pipework in very much the same way as Hornby do on their current Britannias - although I've used a light grey for the lagging rather than white. I think this looks more subtle.
Yes, this is the deflector that got superglue over it and needed rubbing back and respraying as revealed on one of my status updates Those Narrow Planet plates do look the dogs
And finally, a quick shot of the cab showing the cream roof a
A spoof photoshopped photo posted on Facebook has coincided with me having a Triang Evening Star with a disintegrated tender frame going for spares. So ladles and Jellyspoons, we have the BR Standard 9MT Tank Engine
Black outline is the stock 9F, red the 4MT Tank. Green is the extended tanks and bunker (well it is a 9F) which also moves the rear pony to a more suitable place. The blue line is where the bottom of the tank front needs to be raised to clear the weighshaft a
Over the last few days I have been putting together this for my "Missing" Standard 8F:
Basically the chinese built 5 pole tender drive was incompatible with Peco code 75 turnouts, the 3 way especially. I tried removing the centre wobbly wheels and set the b2bs to 14.4mm (which then needed the wheels shimming to maintain gear mesh!) but then I looked at the way the Crosti 9F just ran at shows without fuss and I remembered the old drive that originally came with the 9F.
It's basically
Quick photo of the 2-8-2 before fitting of the brakes and rigging.
Tender needs coal and a coupling, but that's about it really.
Went a bit mad with the Brit detailing pack I got off eBay, fitted the screw link coupling and backing plate (if that's the word?) plus the steam heat pipe as well as the cylinder drains that I bought it for. The rest will go to the Duke of Gloucester that is to come B)
Wonder if it still works?
UPDATE:
Couldn't resist taking this pic of the
I've been fiddling with the motion support bracket over the last few nights. This little job has proved far more difficult than first expected due to the fact that it sits more over the #2 driver than a 9F and 9F's have smaller wheels!
I have had to solder in a section on top to re-inforce the bracket due to the large amount of material needed to be filed away from the vertical faces to clear the wheels.
So here it is, still with over long .7mm wires ready for all the fittings later
Not much done over the weekend, more kitchen hard labour and a trip to Alton Towers water park yesterday. We do however have the beginnings of the left hand side motion
Valve rod has been modified to have the forked end into the expansion link and seperate lifting link added within the fork. The valve rod is free to slide in the "forward" slot of the expansion link. in fact the whole lifting mechanism works as prototype at the moment
Return crank and eccentric rod next to see if
Whilst I am waiting for the bodyshell to come back I spent a pleasant evening with some wet or dry finishing off the coupling and connecting rods.
You can see the additional section added to the con-rod at the crank end to lengthen it to 47mm. This is 1mm longer than the drawing - I made up a test rod from scrap etch to the correct length which proved a tad too short for the Comet slidebars
Just the accentric link to lengthen and then I can start assembling the motion. It will be
I always knew that the second hand Sagami motor that I had installed in the 2-8-2 was, well, a bit weak. It ran hot even just connected to the gearbox.
Now that I'm in the final assembly stage when it came to running in the assembled chassis following painting it was clear that it was just not up to the job.
Thanks to artisan100 - Geoff at Comet Models a Mashima 1628 together with a new matching steel worm gear was supplied in doble quick time. I took the liberty of also ordering a 14mm
Thanks to Steve (ramrig) of this parish for these nice shots taken at Derby last weekend
Those of you coming to the Member's Day in July will be able to see it in the flesh so to speak
Continuing the series of photos of blackness - here's the chassis so far. Cylinders are also painted but will be lined and varnished before the masking is removed.
now where's that pressfix .....
Handrails and regulator linkage today to be specific. First time I've used Gibson handrail knobs, fiddly to thread on the 0.45mm wire but very nice on the loco
Here's a shot of the loco's face that has not been seen before, showing not only today's work but the vaccuum ejector (blower) too
Which has just reminded me that lamp irons need sorting ......
Santa brought me a MR Sentinel, bless her and after clearing the deask recently I thought I'd get it ready for duty on Summat Colliery. I initially chipped it with a Hornby R8215 just to test it out and was pleased with how nicely it ran. However, in an exhibition environment I don't want a slow moving shunter to be prodded by the hand of god too often, so a StayAlive capacitor was in order.
Space being an issue I investigated the TCS DP2X-UK - no wires to worry about for a start. Looking a
Some may say that the recent server outage has lead to a jump in progress, but really I just found the time at home
So, armed with nothing more than a couple of bits of scrap etch soldered back to back, a file and an 0.85mm drill I started to fashion new union links for the 2-8-2.
note filed down fingers!
A quick go with the razor saw, unsoldering and final fettle gave me two nice new links
Took about an hour, as do most jobs with this build ...
Here's a photo of
What to do when your 13 year old takes a shine to an old Atlas loco at the Mansfield Model Railway show. Prize out the Kaydees and glue in some spare NEM pockets. He likes the big old style couplings so we have standardised on them. Plenty of spare small Bachmann style ones for me 🙂
Well, spring seems to be a popular time for my random scribblings.
The 2-8-2 is scheduled to appear in the next Model Rail - May issue out April 19th and yesterday Mike at Hornby Magazine confirmed the Duke of Gloucester will be appearing in the June edition (HM60) out 11th May
I have another 8F to do a sound fitting so I thought i'd show how I fit the excellent ABS-230 speaker in the tender
First remove the weight and prise off the plastic supports. using a razor saw cut down the rear weight fixing pillar flush. Drill some holes in front and behind the centre wheels. Cement in two small fillets of 1mm plastikard to seal the bottom of what will be the output chamber for the speaker - a couple of nicks in the corners will allow the pickup wires to pass through.
Some of you might have seen in my status updates that I've been fiddling with Summat Colliery's resident shunter "Harry" this week.
He's received a small Stay Alive capacitor pack to his ancient Lenz Standard (not Plus) decoder and I've now turned my attention to the outside.
I started adding some real coal to the bunker, and then went a bit mad sprinkling coal dust and a few large lumps to the footplate.
Needs a quick waft with some matt varnish but I'm pretty happy with the im
