A quick snap before he gets taken apart tomorrow for the start of spraying
Grey primer first, then satin black, over which the green will go on after masking
71000 is getting ready for his before primer photo shoot
I've drilled out the chimney and finally sorted the air bubble holes with some gel type cyano (Screwfix Mitre bond - who says doing the kitchen can't help with the modelling )
and I've bit the bullet and fashioned the cab partitions behind the driver and fireman out of plasticard, also a representation of the fireman's seat. The driver as usual comes with a cast in seat
So, just waiting for the buffers from Golden A
So the much hinted at etched valve chest covers from Pete Harvey of PH Designs arrived on Saturday, I've folded one up as a test and rested it on top of the Golden Arrow resin version for comparison.
Looks like Pete got them spot on, there's even a half etched lip at the rear of the lower edge to allow the cover to sit on the top of the cylinder body to give a slight overhang as the prototype
Big thanks to Pete for offering to do these without me asking, a real credit to Pete and t
Just a quick update today. The deflectors arrived last week and one is assembled. Mods need to be done as the Duke's footplate is further forward than a Brit. Other issue is that CTMB don't supply the handrail knobs, good job I have some in stock.
Better news today was a text from Pete Harvey, etched goodies on the way that will make my Duke unique, well until he does his too.
More to follow
After a short spell with a hacksaw and 8BA tap we have the following arrangement
I've lost the whole section of chassis from underneath where the body fixing sticks out, so the drawbar pin and it's carrying plate plus the whole lump that supported the flangeless pony wheel has gone to make room for the swinging rear pony.
The exisiting pony fixing hole was drilled out 1.8mm and tapped 8BA to take a triang/Hornby bogie screw. A conventional 8BA cheesehead screwed into the tapped hole
Well, ok, it's not quite finished, just need to add Brian at Shawplan's excellent etched windscreen wipers, but apart from that it's done.
Took a lot of fiddling round the edges, getting it to run round rad 2 curves, re-doing the chassis to loco fixings, shimming the fixings so that it sits level etc etc etc.
marker lights have been done by drilling them out 2mm then a slight countersink with a 3mm drill. Finally a blob of clearfix provides the lens.
Runs smooth with a Bachmann
One side done, ready for handrails and varnish
Bit of a disappointment that the Fox nose plates (the ones under the fake headlamp) are too long for the Dapol body, not sure who is at fault, but I've had to trim the "The" and "Ltd" off the ends to get them to fit
Hand rails are going to be made from Hornby steel handrail wire, I'm going to have to fabricate some form of jig/gauge to make sure they are all the same length (two sizes), b ut it's getting there
EDIT: Both si
Well havn't I been busy whilst the forum was down. The Lima/Crafstman DP1 is finished and ready to find a new home
To confirm the spec:
Lima Deltic Craftsman conversion kit (minus etched whiskers and side stripes)
Fox waterslide whiskers and sidestripes (the ones with the black edging)
SE Finecast flushglaze with cab door windows using Humbrol Clearfix
Paint: Humbrol Deltic Blue and grey primer protected with Krylon Matte Coat
Pretty pleased with this one, if I can
Thanks to Diesel Dayz for allowing the 2-8-2 a guest appearance on Duke Street at this weekend's Derby Show
raised a few eyebrows and even attracted the attention of Steve Flint B-)
Thought I'd check the tender to loco coupling as the extra 4mm length at the back was concerning me. Glad I did before going any further. For those who do not know, the current spec Brit chassis connects to the tender via a pin under the cab fixed to the chassis not the pony as in earlier variants.
Here's the result on the widest setting of the drawbar
and this one shows how it all connects
Fine if I don't expect the loco to go round curves!
The plan is to lose the c
I'm still doing prep work and planning with this build. Chris' instructions suggest you start with the chassis so I've stripped the brit chassis down to it's drive wheels and coupling rods. Here's a quick snap of the first trial fit of the body on the chassis - it fits!
As I'm not using the recommended chassis there will be a few deviations from the instructions. I will not be using the resin front motion support bracket (part 3) as the cast lubricator supports will do nicely. The Hornb
OK, Golden Arrow Duke of Gloucester build starts now. Opening the box we have:
I've cleaned the loco body of the small amount of flash, needs a final fettle with some fine files to finish. There are a couple of air bubble holes in the chimney and a w/m replacement might be in the offing.
Similarly I might use some ex-JE etched deflctors now I've got the hang of them with the Clan and 2-8-2.
Tender is Chris' new BR1J and a fine moulding it is too - should match up to the Hornby c
Thanks to Steve (ramrig) of this parish for these nice shots taken at Derby last weekend
Those of you coming to the Member's Day in July will be able to see it in the flesh so to speak
I always knew that the second hand Sagami motor that I had installed in the 2-8-2 was, well, a bit weak. It ran hot even just connected to the gearbox.
Now that I'm in the final assembly stage when it came to running in the assembled chassis following painting it was clear that it was just not up to the job.
Thanks to artisan100 - Geoff at Comet Models a Mashima 1628 together with a new matching steel worm gear was supplied in doble quick time. I took the liberty of also ordering a 14mm
OK, so I was in Mevagissey last week, so HAD to call at the World of Model Railways with #2 son for an hour or two.
Some Spingside BR Head and tail lamps just jumped off the rack at me
Group 4 for the interested -
Well, it is a mixed traffic engine B)
Gives you a good look at the other details added from the Brit detailing pack too
Quick photo of the 2-8-2 before fitting of the brakes and rigging.
Tender needs coal and a coupling, but that's about it really.
Went a bit mad with the Brit detailing pack I got off eBay, fitted the screw link coupling and backing plate (if that's the word?) plus the steam heat pipe as well as the cylinder drains that I bought it for. The rest will go to the Duke of Gloucester that is to come B)
Wonder if it still works?
UPDATE:
Couldn't resist taking this pic of the
These chaps got painted and made all dirty with black pastel tonight, all ready to crew the good ship Mikado
I've deliberately made the driver cleaner than the fireman and he sports a red neckerchief, the dandy
These are whitemetal (probably pewter) copies of the Hornby offerings that I bought off eBay ages ago. Will add a little more weight to aid traction
Loco body all lined out and I've picked out some of the pipework in very much the same way as Hornby do on their current Britannias - although I've used a light grey for the lagging rather than white. I think this looks more subtle.
Yes, this is the deflector that got superglue over it and needed rubbing back and respraying as revealed on one of my status updates Those Narrow Planet plates do look the dogs
And finally, a quick shot of the cab showing the cream roof a
I've had a few requests to see the 2-8-2 in unlined "as built" black, so in homage to Hornby's latest Britannia offering here's 91000 before lining out and naming
Keen eyes will observe the digitally removed cylinder lining and the fact that the return crank is not actually soldered to the crankpin
Continuing the series of photos of blackness - here's the chassis so far. Cylinders are also painted but will be lined and varnished before the masking is removed.
now where's that pressfix .....
Didn't get much chance to do some modelling last night, but did get some paint on the Narrow Planet plates
Just got to seperate them from the etch without damage now
I did try to get the shed and number plates with white lettering by painting them white first then black and wiping off. Sadly this didn't happen for me.
Looking at the loco the build plates will need to go on before the deflectors.
Tender is now black and waiting it's red buffer beam and lining out
Actually, the loco body is done too, as are the bogies and deflectors. Time to start stripping down the chassis methinks
EDIT:
Deflectors are now on
B)
As promised here's the 2-8-2 in all her unpainted glory so you can see what has been added to the basic Hornby green mouldings
Now, where's that grey primer .......
