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What's on my workbench and other musings

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Now, where's the Satin Varnish ......

Loco body all lined out and I've picked out some of the pipework in very much the same way as Hornby do on their current Britannias - although I've used a light grey for the lagging rather than white. I think this looks more subtle.       Yes, this is the deflector that got superglue over it and needed rubbing back and respraying as revealed on one of my status updates Those Narrow Planet plates do look the dogs     And finally, a quick shot of the cab showing the cream roof a

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Tender Lines

Tender is now lined out, just needs plates and a waft of satin black, unless I decide to do the yellow axleboxes ....    

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"As Built"

I've had a few requests to see the 2-8-2 in unlined "as built" black, so in homage to Hornby's latest Britannia offering here's 91000 before lining out and naming       Keen eyes will observe the digitally removed cylinder lining and the fact that the return crank is not actually soldered to the crankpin

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More Black ....

Continuing the series of photos of blackness - here's the chassis so far. Cylinders are also painted but will be lined and varnished before the masking is removed.     now where's that pressfix .....

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Plates

Didn't get much chance to do some modelling last night, but did get some paint on the Narrow Planet plates     Just got to seperate them from the etch without damage now   I did try to get the shed and number plates with white lettering by painting them white first then black and wiping off. Sadly this didn't happen for me.   Looking at the loco the build plates will need to go on before the deflectors.

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Black!

Tender is now black and waiting it's red buffer beam and lining out       Actually, the loco body is done too, as are the bogies and deflectors. Time to start stripping down the chassis methinks   EDIT:   Deflectors are now on   B)

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A Grey Day

Grey primer that is - it's a lovely sunny day really   Various chassis parts have been stripped down and given a coat of Hycote grey primer ready for some satin black     The loco and tender bodies have also been treated to a coat or two, but are hardening off in a darkened room

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Final Photos Before Painting

As promised here's the 2-8-2 in all her unpainted glory so you can see what has been added to the basic Hornby green mouldings                 Now, where's that grey primer .......

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Enough is Enough

Sad to say but the final bit of detailing for the 2-8-2 has defeated me.   The 2-8-2 will not have lubricator/slide support brackets. The lubricators will be glued to the bodyshell and so lubricator linkages will not be featured either.   I just don't have the time/patience/skills to fabricate these brackets from scratch, the tolerances involved getting it all to fit are too tight for my rough and ready try it and see approach.   The good news is that the painting can start as soon as I've

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Brakes

Those of you who saw my question in the Kitbuilding/Scratchbuilding section will know already that I wanted some plastic brake shoes etc as they are VERY close to the wheels and didn't want to risk short circuits upsetting the Loksound decoder. I've since secured an 8F chassis bottom from East Kent Models with a view to using the plastic brake shoes for the 2-8-2.   Well, first I drilled some 0.5mm holes in the top of the hangers to take some 0.45mm wires threaded through the frames then clipp

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Sandboxes and Filler Tubes

The detailing is getting a bit silly now, I need to sit quietly in a darkened room, or just get on with the kitchen!   Trouble is, now I know how the sandboxes are arranged on a Brit and the with daylight visible between the boiler and frames on the 2-8-2, the absence of sandboxes and filler tubes would just bug me.   So, I got busy with some plasticard, EMA Plastic Weld and a scalpel.     There's still some cleaning up to do and the tops of the tubes need trimming to ensire that they

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Steps to Finish Front End

After a very productive evening last night we have this fabrication     I've used Comet's LS35 LMS/BR steps etch as a basis, adding a strip of spare etch from the JE deflectors to join them together and two further thin strips of etch to make the support straps. I've basically made something that resembles the old Crownline design. Should be good and strong and resist the odd knock etc.   Here's the finished article epoxied to the body  

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Deflecting Attention

I'm getting better at these ex-JE deflectors, the ones I fitted to my Clan conversion kit ended up having a lot of superglue rather than solder. These for the 2-8-2 are 100% soldered and I'm real happy with them. You just can't beat the right solder and flux (thanks Eilleen's!)     I ignored the instructions and soldered the handrails with the deflectors flat, then formed the curve after. It works for me!   Also note lovely Comet buffers replacing the horrid puny Hornby ones.   Now, wh

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Sandbox Musings

With the approaching end to the current detailing phase on the 2-8-2 thoughts have again drifted to the chassis. I have found loads of photos of Britannia on t'internet and I really want to add sandboxes between the frames and filler tubes etc.   The initial thought was to do them as Britannia with three small box covers on the footplate each side (three instead of two as the 2-8-2 has more wheels innit). However I think I know why the 9Fs have only fillers on the RHS of the loco, because of t

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Buffers (no longer) Wanted

I've started detailing the front end and of course as soon as I started looking at a close-up photo of a Brit it's all too clear the the standard Hornby buffers do not, as they say, cut the mustard.   A pair of Comet ones would be lovely, but they come in a pack of four and are no-where near the minimum order charge.   I've put out a wanted ad in classifieds here so if anyone has a couple to spare please PM me   UPDATE: Geoff at Comet made me an offer I couldn't refuse so watch out for b

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More bits of Wire

Handrails and regulator linkage today to be specific. First time I've used Gibson handrail knobs, fiddly to thread on the 0.45mm wire but very nice on the loco   Here's a shot of the loco's face that has not been seen before, showing not only today's work but the vaccuum ejector (blower) too     Which has just reminded me that lamp irons need sorting ......

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Pipework and Valves Finished

well, for now at least.   All the main components are in place and plumbed up       Handrails and the regulator linkages next then it's probably deflectors.   The chassis needs revisiting as the lubricator supports are still missing and I'd like to add the sandbox filler tubes and possible a sandbox or two between the frames - all fixed to the boiler lower. I've plenty of exhaust steam pipe left to add a representation of it emerging from between the frames up to the running plate

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Pipework, valves and burnt fingers

Detailing has started on the bodyshell, the Comet Britannia/Clan/Duke detailing pack has been opened and the following added so far:   Smokebox dart Safety valves Clacks and feed pipes Vacuum ejector Steam manifold Carriage warming valve Injector steam valves   Here's a quick shot of the right side of the firebox showing the pipework so far.     A few more evenings to go with this one then it's the deflectors and footsteps. Once these are done then I think I will be in a position

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Cab Details #2

More cab detailing. Handrails are fitted, which took a couple of goes to get them right. The knobs are really old stock that I bought at least 20 years ago and the last four. The Gibson ones I bought recently were far too long, hey ho!     I've also provided somewhere for the fireman to rest between shovelfulls out of 1mm plastcard. The driver's seat is part of the casting so won't arrive until the driver is fitted (a long time yet!)     Don't think much more will be done before Mickle

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Cab Details

I was getting a little stale with all that soldering and fussing around with th chassis for the 2-8-2, so with some 20 thou' Evergreen sheet bought from Trains4U and armed with a pair of scissors, digital vernier, scriber and steel rule I copied the rear platform sheeting and cab doors from my Bachmann standard 5.     Most satisfying, the styrene sheet glued almost instantly with EMA Plastic Weld.   Driver and Fireman's seats next then handrails   EDIT:   I've just become a rivet cou

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Balance Spring

Take one bit of 1/8" diameter tube (bought at Trains4U last Sunday), drill a 0.6mm hole through the end, elongate this hole with the drill so that two 0.45mm brass wires will pass through. Bend said wires inside so that a 0.7mm wire will pass between them axially down the tube. Repeat at the other end and solder up. Afer cleaning up the ends of the 0.45mm wire you get this     cut excess 0.7mm wire off the long end and flatten with a pair of pilers. Solder to RHS weighshaft bracket (burning

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2-8-2 Visits Summat Colliery on Test

OK, I admit it, I played with the 2-8-2 for a lot of the day at Trains4U and it behaved itself quite well. Stuggled over the "hump" that appeared at one baseboard joint and proved that 14 wheel pickup isn't necessarily enough   Lots of questions from customers about what/why etc it has been modelled. Anyway here's a few pics         So now it's on with the bodyshell detailing. I bought some brass tube to fabricate the counterbalance spring for the RHS weighshaft bracket and some

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Trains4U Open Day Preview

For those of you who can't make it, and those of you who can, here's what will be making a guest appearance on Summat Colliery         I've got some more fiddling to do with the chassis and more weight to get in around the firebox/ashpan area but in appearance this is what you'll be getting on Sunday   UPDATE: CVs have been tweaked so we now have approx 4 chuffs per rev not 8 and the front smokebox shovelling plate fitted. We'll see what tonight brings .......

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A Sound Investment

To say the least, the cost of the 2-8-2 has just jumped up with the addition of a Loksound 3.5 with my own customised sound scheme     It all fits in the firebox area behind the motor, all I needed to do to get the standard speaker in was to cut one of the mounting lugs off, file a couple of flats on the outside of the case an fix the other lug to the frame with a 12ba Triang valve gear screw B)     I've not cut off the spare function wires yet as I've not decided on lights etc yet..

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Right Side Motion

Well, after a bit of a panic when the eccentric rod bearing cover decided to hide in the carpet for 24 hours, the right hand side motion is done     Still got some detailing to do, slide/lubricator supports to fabricate and the counterbalance spring housing for the RHS. I think I will also make a representation of the lever that connects the LHS lifting arm to the the screw adjuster from the cab.   But it all works and run in okay.   Next job is to fit the Loksound decoder and speaker r

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