As the title says, a quick update on this weekend's progress. Chassis has been modified so it sits inside the Dapol body. I intend to keep as much of the original fuel tanks and weight as possible so more shaping etc is required to get the body sides fitting correctly.
Once the chassis frames are done I'll sort out some fixing lugs inside the body so that the original screw fixings can be used. After that I need to find some way of holding the body sides to the chassis as they tend to b
Ok, there wasn't really any doubt that I would have to shorten the body of the 2-8-2 was there?
so, after some careful marking out with my trusty Rotring compass/dividers, having worked out the cut width of the razor saw, two vertical cuts were made in the smokebox between the chimney and boiler join (note slight over cut with the saw marking the running plate )
The cuts were made here to preserve the rivet detail and superheater at the boiler join. Further cuts through the runnin
I've been fiddling with the motion support bracket over the last few nights. This little job has proved far more difficult than first expected due to the fact that it sits more over the #2 driver than a 9F and 9F's have smaller wheels!
I have had to solder in a section on top to re-inforce the bracket due to the large amount of material needed to be filed away from the vertical faces to clear the wheels.
So here it is, still with over long .7mm wires ready for all the fittings later
Well, after a bit of a panic when the eccentric rod bearing cover decided to hide in the carpet for 24 hours, the right hand side motion is done
Still got some detailing to do, slide/lubricator supports to fabricate and the counterbalance spring housing for the RHS. I think I will also make a representation of the lever that connects the LHS lifting arm to the the screw adjuster from the cab.
But it all works and run in okay.
Next job is to fit the Loksound decoder and speaker r
I thought I'd get a quick update in before the server goes down ...
Both bodies are now blue, the Lima one is well on the way to getting it's Fox transfers applied. I'll post pics once we are on the new server.
Airbrushed the Dapol body today and I'm pretty pleased. Think it might do with another quick waft. My proper airbrush arrived today, don't think I'll be able to use it until my birthday in June though
Might get this loco done for the Nottingham Show yet
Following a delivery of nuts and screws from EE's yesterday much progress ensued last night
We have rear pony soldered up and installed, axle bearings soldered in place, all frame spacers fixed, motion bracket test fitted and cylinder framing screwed in place.
Here's a photo of the loco sitting on the drawing, which pleasingly seems to have everything lining up so far
and here's a front 3/4 view
Keen observers will see that the drivers cannot be fitted at axle #2 pos
Didn't get much chance to do some modelling last night, but did get some paint on the Narrow Planet plates
Just got to seperate them from the etch without damage now
I did try to get the shed and number plates with white lettering by painting them white first then black and wiping off. Sadly this didn't happen for me.
Looking at the loco the build plates will need to go on before the deflectors.
The detailing is getting a bit silly now, I need to sit quietly in a darkened room, or just get on with the kitchen!
Trouble is, now I know how the sandboxes are arranged on a Brit and the with daylight visible between the boiler and frames on the 2-8-2, the absence of sandboxes and filler tubes would just bug me.
So, I got busy with some plasticard, EMA Plastic Weld and a scalpel.
There's still some cleaning up to do and the tops of the tubes need trimming to ensire that they
As promised, here's a few photos of the Crosti posing on Summat Colliery ready for delivery to it's new owner in time for Christmas. It is intended that Roomey of this parish will weather it in the new year.
more like driven batty
The Accentric links proved to be the most troublesome of the motion rods to lengthen. Due mainly to the fact that they are a single etch and not laminated from two etches.
Long and short of it is that I had to lengthen them by approx 5mm so some re-inforcement was needed. Good job I have some 5 thou' phosphor bronze sheet to hand. The three bits of the lengthened rod was soldered to the sheet then the whole thing cut out and trimmed up.
Two rods done, two ho
Got the right hand coupling rods soldered up last night, looking better than the left so might do some remedial work on the left set once the chassis is all set up and running....
So with a few bits of electical wire insulation on the crank pins to hold the rods in place power was appled to the motor
it runs, just. I did expect this, the crank pin holes were drilled 1mm which is barely enough to allow the pins to pass through. I will ream out these holes a little at a time working i
I was getting a little stale with all that soldering and fussing around with th chassis for the 2-8-2, so with some 20 thou' Evergreen sheet bought from Trains4U and armed with a pair of scissors, digital vernier, scriber and steel rule I copied the rear platform sheeting and cab doors from my Bachmann standard 5.
Most satisfying, the styrene sheet glued almost instantly with EMA Plastic Weld.
Driver and Fireman's seats next then handrails
I've just become a rivet cou
Thanks to Ramrig for the loan of a tender drive brit (so the frames I make will fit the Hornby body) I now have a "comic" for the 2-8-2 frames.
It's a hybrid of 3 different sources, the Hornby Brit chassis, the original cox drawing of the 2-8-2 and Comet's Brit frames for the better front end and cylinder mountings.
Plan is to tidy it up and glue a copy to some PCB material and cut out 3 sets, drilling the pilot holes for the axles in one go to provide a jig (the 3rd copy) for the c
Had to post this!
got the bodyshell back from de Selby today - he's fitted new flush running plate vertical faces complete with rivet details etc.
Absolutely stunning, I really need to make sure the rest of the loco is up to this standard now
Following a brief interlude with my thoughts on a 77xxx I returned to the Duke yeterday whilst recovering from a nasty bout of Bejing Belly (don't ask)
So deflectors are now modified to the single continuous handrail which involved unsoldering the small lower handrail and the handrail knob from the end of the top handrail. This was re-sited higher up in a new hole, two holes were filled with solder and then a new section of handrail soldered in with the join within the old knob.
After a very productive evening last night we have this fabrication
I've used Comet's LS35 LMS/BR steps etch as a basis, adding a strip of spare etch from the JE deflectors to join them together and two further thin strips of etch to make the support straps. I've basically made something that resembles the old Crownline design. Should be good and strong and resist the odd knock etc.
Here's the finished article epoxied to the body
So the much hinted at etched valve chest covers from Pete Harvey of PH Designs arrived on Saturday, I've folded one up as a test and rested it on top of the Golden Arrow resin version for comparison.
Looks like Pete got them spot on, there's even a half etched lip at the rear of the lower edge to allow the cover to sit on the top of the cylinder body to give a slight overhang as the prototype
Big thanks to Pete for offering to do these without me asking, a real credit to Pete and t
Well, both DP1s are sat ready for their blue top coats, chassis done and running. So my mind wandered to the finishing touches..
As I used to work for a gauge company I thought it would be nice to paint the fuel level gauges at least on my Dapol/Bachmann version, then I thought of a better way.
Thanks to sir haydn for supplying me with this picture
after a bit of processing to crop out detail and adjust the exposure to take account of the reduction in scale by 1/76 gives me thes
Not much done over the weekend, more kitchen hard labour and a trip to Alton Towers water park yesterday. We do however have the beginnings of the left hand side motion
Valve rod has been modified to have the forked end into the expansion link and seperate lifting link added within the fork. The valve rod is free to slide in the "forward" slot of the expansion link. in fact the whole lifting mechanism works as prototype at the moment
Return crank and eccentric rod next to see if
Am I glad I fitted the return crank/eccentric rod before anything else.
It doesn't connect to the expansion link too well at all, in fact by 2mm
Looking again at the drawing (a lot!) leads me to the conclusion that the motion bracket/weighshaft needs to move back. The weight drawing of course shows a Britannia type bracket and I'm using a 9F one and there are differences.
One advantage of all this rework is that the valve rod will not need shortening and clearances underneath the
OK, I've finally bit the bullet and started on the coupling rods.
The motion set I'm using as a base is a Comet Models LM43 9F set, however all the main rods - coupling, connecting and accentric are too short for the 2-8-2. As most of them are laminated I have to cut the front overlays and backing sections in stategic places and solder them up the right length with suitable filler pieces.
Below shows my mock up of the Comet drawing showing what I intend with the coupling rods
After a short spell with a hacksaw and 8BA tap we have the following arrangement
I've lost the whole section of chassis from underneath where the body fixing sticks out, so the drawbar pin and it's carrying plate plus the whole lump that supported the flangeless pony wheel has gone to make room for the swinging rear pony.
The exisiting pony fixing hole was drilled out 1.8mm and tapped 8BA to take a triang/Hornby bogie screw. A conventional 8BA cheesehead screwed into the tapped hole
More cab detailing. Handrails are fitted, which took a couple of goes to get them right. The knobs are really old stock that I bought at least 20 years ago and the last four. The Gibson ones I bought recently were far too long, hey ho!
I've also provided somewhere for the fireman to rest between shovelfulls out of 1mm plastcard. The driver's seat is part of the casting so won't arrive until the driver is fitted (a long time yet!)
Don't think much more will be done before Mickle
Take one bit of 1/8" diameter tube (bought at Trains4U last Sunday), drill a 0.6mm hole through the end, elongate this hole with the drill so that two 0.45mm brass wires will pass through. Bend said wires inside so that a 0.7mm wire will pass between them axially down the tube. Repeat at the other end and solder up. Afer cleaning up the ends of the 0.45mm wire you get this
cut excess 0.7mm wire off the long end and flatten with a pair of pilers. Solder to RHS weighshaft bracket (burning