Finally finished off my Coles Crane tonight, 14 months after starting it.
It didn't really need a lot of work to finish, a coat of varnish, some couplings and rigging. The 3 links were supplied with the kit although I lost one hook, easily replaced as it was supplied with Exactoscale hooks, which are excellent. The hooks and links were treated with Birchwood Casey 'Super Blue' before fitting. Rigging, with black cotton (supplied) is fiddly. The cotton is held in place under the rear of the body
Still slowly progressing through the paint shop is my Judith Edge Steelman Royale. The black areas of the frame have been sprayed and the whole frame gloss varnished. The bufferbeams have been wasp-stiped, using Fox transfers, and another coat of varnish applied. The loco will be have a gloss finish as these locos were kept extremely clean. A pic;
I still have to start on the bodywork.
My JPG Models dumper truck is finished;
Before weathering I sprayed the model with matt v
This build is now finally, as far as I'm concerned, finished. Its had a light coat of etch primer, final painting will be done by the owner, who will also fit the buffer heads (I always fit them last). I'm quite pleased with the way its turned out, I just hope the owner is as well! I had to make the cab steps and axlebox gaurds from brass strip as they were missing. A couple of pics;
And one from underneath;
As you can see I've tried to sqeeze a lot of lead into a small space! This one i
One of these arrived in the post today. I'd seen it on Eileen's Emporium's site and thought 'that could be usefull'.
I've rarely seen these mentioned on here.
Here's the etch, note the different baseplates for different gauges;
Cut out and folded up;
And soldered together;
And in use;
Usual disclaimer.
I hope someone finds this interesting/usefull.
Paul.
I'm back on track with this one now. I've decided to use a Mashima 10/20 motor coupled to a High Level Slimliner Compact+ gearbox, my previous 48DS's used 10/15 motors. The change of motor was due to a conversation with Chris Gibbons (High Level) whilst ordering the motor and 'box who advised me to use the bigger motor if possible, at the time I was going to stick with a 10/15 + flywheel (I ordered a 10/15, this is now in the spares box). Whilst building up the gearbox I got out my spare 10/20 a
The etchings were cleaned up using a file (gently!), 3 sided scraper and, most importantly, a fibreglass burnishing brush. Once everything was cleaned I could start thinking about re-assembly. As before I started with the footplate, which revealed a bit of a problem;
(Note the Gibson sprung buffers, these come with square bases which need to be filed rectangular).
The lower part of the bufferbeams had been filed back too narrow for the re-constructed frames. So I cut pieces of scrap etch to
Taking a short break from the Husky I'm tackling this;
An A1 Models Ruston 48DS. It belongs to a fellow RMWebber who, after seeing my Ruston at the Derby members day, asked if I could build a new chassis for his and detail the body like my own effort. This one has some damage to the LH cab side;
It came with alternative cab sides which the owner had originally glued over the top. I decided to strip the cab down (the roof was coming off anyway so I could fit a securing nut inside);
The
The front sandboxes are attached to the valances and just need bending to shape. Another very impressive piece of design work. Here's a pic, one 'box bent to shape and one still flat;
A lot better than a whitemetal casting I'm sure you'll agree.
The lids sit above the footplate, these will be added after the bonnet is soldered in place.
The rear sandboxes are made from 3 parts, above the footplate there is a cast brass body with an etched lid and below the footplate there is a L shape
This part, the control desk in the cab, is so nice it deserves its own entry. Its made up from 4 etches and .5mm rod. Here's a pic of the etches;
The fork shaped pieces are control levers and fit into slots on the top of the desk. The part on its own at the top folds into a gauge panel. Both sets of levers have to be set at the same angle as they are linked on the prototype.
Here's a pic of the control panel assembled;
The .5mm rod is in the midle of the panel. I'll glue the p
The bufferbeams are laminated from 2 layers, the outer layer is half etched with rivet detail, different front and rear. The buffers themselves are lost wax castings and needed a little bit of fettling, I held the shank in a pin chuck for this;
Here's the bufferbeams soldered up with the drawgear surrounds in place;
A bit of filler is needed where I cut the buffer shanks a bit too short in a couple of places.
I'll attach these later on after I solder the boonet in place.
The
Today I fitted the brass overlays that are attached to the front and rear of the chassis. And here they are;
The next job that I tackled were the brakes. These are detachable, they slot into lugs on the sides of the frames and are screwed in place with 14BA screws. There are holes in the chassis for the lower inward facing .5mm rods to slot in. I assembled these on the fret, they comprise of a pull rod overlay which sits along the top of the assembly, half etched brake shoes (held in p
I've now made a start on the chassis. This is etched in nickel silver, which made the job of opening out the holes for the bearings hard work. The first job is to fabricate the transmission cover, this is made up from a n/s spacer and a brass body. Attached to these are detail etches which are located with lengths of .5mm brass rod, which is cut of almost flush on one part and bent up to form an oil pipe on the other part. A pic;
Most of this detail will be very hard to spot on the fini
I made up the rear bonnet today. The main body of it is folded up from a single etch with detail parts added. Here's a pic of it with the doors and door handles added;
The cut outs help when soldering it to the cab rear. And here it is soldered in place;
After attaching it there are a couple of riveted strips that sit along the base, which can be seen in the next pic. Soldering it in place was a bit of a pain, there are similar strips that sit along the base of the front bonnet
I made up the bonnet today. First the rivets were punched out, I use a gravity tool on a sheet of lead, then all the holes are drilled for the handles. The next job is to solder lengths of .4mm brass rod into grooves on the sides to form rainstrips. Then the bonnet is bent to shape and soldered to the front panel. I used 188 degree solder for most of this work. Here's a pic, bonnet rested on the footplate, before the end was cleaned up on a sheet of wet and dry;
The next job is to fit
I soldered the cab overlays onto the cab frame today. These are half etched to give the detail for the window frames, rivets, door etc. Fitting them was easier than I thought, I tinned the edges and then held them in place one at a time and tacked an edge, checked then ran the iron all the way round until firmly fixed. The front and rear were done first and the sides last. The only problem that I had was with the LH side which was tacked slightly off square and decided to be a pig to undo...
He
I started this one at the Derby Members Day. I didn't get too far, people kept talking to me! (It was nice to finally put names to faces).
Its a High Level 4mm scale kit for a Robert Stephenson & Hawthorns 'Husky' diesel loco, introduced in 1956. Ten were built before production ceased in 1966.
The kit comprises of an etched nickel silver chassis, an etched brass body and a bag of lost wax castings. Power is from a Mashima 1220. The kit is complete with a dedicated 108:1 gearbox. Instructi
Now the dry(ish) weather has arrived I've had the airbrush out in the back garden. So here's what I've been up to;
A1 Models Ruston 48DS.
This one is finished in Revel Aqua-Color 15 yellow, sprayed over white car primer which in turn is sprayed over Phoenix Precision aerosol etch primer. It's varnished with PP matt ready thinned airbrushing varnish.
And here it is with the buffers (Gibson) fitted and sitting on its chassis;
Just needs glazing and weathering now.
Judith Ed
Whilst putting the Fowler Resilient together I also built this dumper truck, I like to build two white metal kits at the same time to get the most from the epoxy glue as I always manage to mix together more than I need.
The kit contains 18 white metal castings and some basic written instructions. However theres no drawing or photo of the finished item so some head scratching was needed as to how some parts fit. For example the fuel tank and exhaust needed some thought. A look in a Langley Model
I've added the bonnet top and cab roof and started filling and sanding the body ready for painting. Some of the detail castings have been added, the sandboxes (but not the pipes yet) and axleboxes. The bonnet top details (filler caps, exhaust, air filter) will be added after painting as will the brake column in the cab. Some pics;
I've also added the couplings, the kit gives you a choice of sensible 009 Bemo type couplings or scale buffer blocks and link. I went for the scale optio
I've had this kit for over twelve years. Its for Resilient class diesel loco, built by John Fowler in the 40's and powered by either a 3 or 4 cylinder Fowler-Sanders diesel engine. Three 2' gauge locos worked at Alpha Cement at Cliffe-at-Hoo two of which still survive, one at Amberly Museum (the loco this kit was based on) and the other at Armley Mills in Leeds. Some were built to 3' gauge, one worked at Marland in North Devon and another at Dinmor on Anglesey. The Dinmor loco still survives and
As both locos are almost ready for the paint shop I'll share some thoughts on the build.
My aims with this project were;
To build a 3' gauge Ruston,
To see how far I could go with detailing the A1 Models kit,
To build my own slow running compensated chassis,
To build a 48DS with the correct wheelbase with the right amount of daylight under the frames.
(The EM loco wasn't originally planned, I decided partway through that it wouldn't take much extra effort to build a second loco).
I'm happ
Along the top of the bonnet theres a metal channel which the bottom edge of the bonnet doors slots into (the bonnet sides hinge upwards) to hold them in place when opened. I represented this on the models with a strip of .030" x .010" plastic with a slot cut down its length with an Olfa type cutter. A pic;
Thanks to Ruston for info on this.
Axleboxes were carved from 3 x 1.5mm plastic strip. On the OOn3 loco they could be fitted straight on but on the EM loco they had to be thinned due to th
Sandboxes have now been added to both locos.
For the standard gauge loco I used 3 x 1.5mm plastic strip with a rectangle of .030" plasticard glued to the top for the filler cap. Once the glue set hard the cap was shaped with a needle file to give the angled top before the sandbox was superglued to the footplate. Its easier to glue the top to the strip before its cut to length. It is 3mm high (not including the cap), dimensions taken from the Chasewater loco. A pic (white plastic doesn't photogr
For the radiater and fuel caps I used some handrail knobs soldered in place but not pushed all the way in so part of the shaft is still showing, as in the photo;
Then the top of the knob was cut off with Xuron cutters and filed down to form a cap;
The roof was first annealed over the gas hob. Then I clamped the edges to a 2mm drill in a Hold And Fold to form the outer bends. A similar sized drill was used on the opposite side to even out the clamp angle and stop the roof being 'spat out' b
More work has been done on the pair. The n.g. loco now has its bonnet fitted and I've fitted the reinforcement strips to the botom of the frame sides, these were cut from .008" x .040" brass strip (from Eileens Emporium) and sweated in place. On those the axlebox gaurds are soldered, first by tinning the back of the gaurd then sweating in place. I left a tag on the gaurds to give me something to hold with self gripping tweezers to make positioning easier. A couple of pics;
This made life a
