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An Ivatt N1 for Heathley Kirkgate - Part 3

AJ427

Entry posted by AJ427

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blog-0419745001345204194.jpgA busy time at work so little time to model and post any updates.

 

 

 

 

 

Further filling and sanding of the 3d printed model has proved to me that a complete single part body is perhaps not the best way to go about it so I'm currently investigating a 'flat-pack' kit type of solution which I will reveal in the 3d printing and cad forum soon. The partially smoothed model is shown here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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However, I still needed to prove the model will work on the Hornby chassis. Looking at the chassis we can see that the motor is screwed to the chassis and the weight sits around it. Taking the weight off reveals a small spring contact beneath to the wiper strip. Power is transfered through the weight to the contact at the top. The weight needs cutting as shown by the masking tape.

 

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The front part of the weight will also foul the base of the smokebox so it's easiest just to cut right through with a hack saw as shown and discard the front.

 

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Next the locating lugs need to be removed from the back and the back corners chamfered. Some material needs to be filed away between the pony truck and driving wheel as shown - this is to allow space for the tank connecting pipes. Next the front coupling is removed and the front of the chassis needs to be cut off immediately forward of the guard irons.

 

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Finally I needed to remove some material from the back face of the cab as the Hornby motor protrudes into this area. On the finished kit I will leave this as is to accommodate anyone who wishes to replace the Hornby motor with something smaller. With all this done the body could be placed on the chassis. My chassis is DCC fitted so the additional wiring to the chip (in the smokebox) meant that the body was sitting a touch too high.

 

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However, the chassis with body combo ran well with no issues and really looks the part. Some more material will need to be filed from the top of the weight or alternatively it may be better to discard the weight altogether and replace it with some liquid lead or similar. If so the contact will need soldering directly to the motor connection. The working model is shown here attached to some Gresley subs.

 

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S.A.C Martin

I've a funny feeling that the newest version of the N2's chassis is slightly different but the work shown here is terrific. Certainly looks the part at the head of a rake of Gresleys. Now Hornby, can we have quad-arts please...!

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gr.king

Rather than struggle and frustrate yourself trying to use rubbing down paper of various sorts in the awkward corners of a full 3D print, try a small, sharp, flat edged scraper drawn lightly and repeatedly ALONG (rather than across) the printing ridges. It will take off all of the peaks, you can feel (and stop) when you reach something like boiler band, and you can get into all of the corners. It worked well for me on Bill Bedford's O4/5 superstructure. If I were you I'd stick to a body that's largely one-piece if you possibly can in order to maximise the advantages of the 3D print technology.

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45568

Hi Andrew,

Missed this entry when it first came out, and waiting to board a flight to Blighty in 10 hours time! I agree with Mr. King, keep it a one piece as much as possible for those 'seamless' joins, and ease of fitting to the N2 chassis, an obvious quick and easy!

Keep up the good work,

Cheers, Peter C.

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