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Bachmann 47706


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Goodevening -

A quick post from me as ebay doesnt want to upload my pictures this evening :( so i've given up on that ....

 

As much as I love my vitrains 47s, I've decided to give a Bachmann version a try, as the livery on their latest release looked ideal for a quick identity change. As soon as I clapped eyes on the new 47/7 'shove' model in Scotrail livery , I thought of 47706 , in its flakey NSE branded Scotrail livery.

The original Bachmann numbers, printed names and Scotrail branding are easily removed with Modelstrip, left on for about an hour, then washed off . The NSE flashes are from Replica , who also do the transfers for the scottie dogs that were added to both sides . I've made a start on weathering , attacking the body with a fibreglass brush , then some washes of rail white, the black much on the roof is enamel put on with the smallest oldest paintbrush I could find - I used satin black , as the photos of 706 showed its roof grime was really thick , with its own texture - so its no wonder the washing plant didn't shift it all.

blogentry-6893-0-09097000-1350424212.jpg

 

Bachmanns TDM cables are a bit chunky!

 

and a bit later on with some more work on the cab roofs:

blogentry-6893-0-44945500-1350424373.jpg

blogentry-6893-0-45433500-1350424444.jpg

 

Before I go any further I need to prep the chassis for weathering - and remove all the ectoplasm (Bachmanns pink factory grease) from the bogies so they can be painted/weathered along with part of the body.

 

Thats all for tonight!

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Jon, it's looking great, especially the roof at each end. Puts me in mind of Pugsley (Martin)'s Heljan version back on RMweb3. You are right about the TDM cables, have you considered replacing them with something with a touch more finesse, to go with your excellent weathering job?

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Looking great Jon. I know what you mean about the ectoplasm - totally over the top! What are your plans for removing it?

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Morning - James - thanks . the Bachmann tdm cables are a bit of a smack in the face! I have a pack of Heljan ones, although they're not much of an improvement on bachmanns fittings , still chunky! Then there's the Hurst etched ones, - nice , when you can get them ?? I've used them before but have now run out...Its just dawned on me to so what Shawplan do - I've never noticed TDM bits in their range , but then again i've never looked for them.

To remove the Bachmann grease, I just use lots of cotton buds, and kitchen paper to mop it all up. The bogie sideframes get a good scrub In the sink and i scrape out as much excess grease as I can from the gear tower with a small screwdriver. Its a right pain!

 

This topic came up at scaleforum a few times when I was asked about converting the Hornby 50 to P4 - I strip the Hornby bogies right down to individual components - gears and all , and degrease everything. Once re assembled I never put any oil back on the moving parts (other than a smear of grease on the brass worms - all my 50s run 'dry' , and I think they run better for it - there's much less resistance in the gear train when you get rid of the sticky grease. It works for kato !

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Nice work Jon, '706 is on my to do list in my planned roll back to the 'Swallow Era' of 'Baby Laira'. I'll be watching your work here with very much interest! A thought with the TDM kit, what about Bachmann tops and bottoms with brass handrail wire for the cable? 0.2 or 0.3mm might do it?

On Farish locos, I've fully degreased the bogies with remote control car cleaner spray (HPI brand),in a tub in the kitchen sink. I've had problems in the past with non-degreased bogies resulting in the weathering going glossy over time. The R/C car degreaser also removes the paint, so you're back to bare plastic to start again.

HTH

 

jo

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Very nice work that Jon! Will you be replacing the glazing on this one? I'm keen to see how you get on with the underframe and bogies (a personal trial for me at the moment) and what you use to "P4" it. I know what you mean about the grease. I bought some new spare bogie frames and these even had a coating of grease despite not having wheels or mechanism attached. Run dry - sounds good, especially if the distances to be covered are small.

 

Jon

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Nice 8)

 

706 is a cracking subject for a 'going to town' weathering job, and yours is looking particularly good.

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