Wenlock's Blog

Fantastic Dave; some nicely restrained touches with the weathering, and my favourite of all the rolling stock you've posted on here so far.

Superb, Dave, a really appealing prototype and excellent model making.

Very nice Dave, some great subtle weathering there to, the 'panelling' especially.

Very nice indeed, though my impression is that the buffer heads and stocks are a bit shiny? Excellent, slightly down-at-heal, but not excessively so - ready for shopping in other words - finish.

 

Adam

Thanks guys, I've been experimenting using washes of a slightly darker colour in the corners of the panelling, before dry brushing a lighter colour on the raised mouldings. I'm glad you like the end result! I'm suprised by the way the window pane, next to the droplight looks opaque in the 2nd photo, it's clear "honest govenor" in reality!

 

Dave

I'm glad you like the end result! I'm surprised by the way the window pane, next to the droplight looks opaque in the 2nd photo,

That's probably because it's plastic, different reflective qualities to glass, including the material within the 'sheet'.

Possibly next time, try glass microscope slip covers, they are 5 thou thick. PM/Email me if you want to try some in other stock or the buildings.

 

But, the model is looking very good, not brand new......

Very nice indeed, though my impression is that the buffer heads and stocks are a bit shiny? Adam

Hi Adam, I think your right about the buffer heads, I've chemically blackened the fronts, but forgotten about the backs! I think a little judicious rust paint is needed.

 

Dave

I'm glad you like the end result! I'm surprised by the way the window pane, next to the droplight looks opaque in the 2nd photo,

That's probably because it's plastic, different reflective qualities to glass, including the material within the 'sheet'.

Possibly next time, try glass microscope slip covers, they are 5 thou thick. PM/Email me if you want to try some in other stock or the buildings.

 

But, the model is looking very good, not brand new......

I've always liked the idea, of using slide glass for windows, but always been put off by its fragility. I'd be interested to hear if you've had any problems with breakages! Thanks for the offer of trying some, much appreciated.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

Dave, again super modelling sir!

Personally, I don't mind a bit of a "misty" look to the windows

I'm sure they got pretty grubby, what with the livestock being carried,

and I'm sure the gwr weren't concerned that the cattle couldn't see too well.....

 

Smashing stuff, I'm glad to see you're back up & running with your modelling,

and doing as much as you were in the 90's

 

.... But you didn't save me a chocolate

 

Marc

Hi Dave - I've been using glass microscope cover slips, which are (so sez the box) 0.13 - 0.17mm thick, in the windows of all the stock I build - even those commissions that have to be delivered by courier - for a number of years now and haven't had any problems with breakages. The glass is surprisingly flexible which may contribute to it being able to withstand more abuse than you'd expect. I've been using canopy glue to fix it from the start, and again this works very well, and after 20 minutes any excess can be scraped off with a sharpened cocktail stick. I think this gives a pretty good impression of the end result.

 

I use a diamond-tipped pencil to cut the shape required - even circular pieces for cab spectacles. A single stroke is made then flat-nosed pliers to snap along the line, though sometimes you have to nibble away at it carefully. Success rate these days is up to about 70% (it was much lower at the start), and on a lucky day (not often!) a circle of glass will pop straight out without any extra fiddling.

.... But you didn't save me a chocolate

 

Marc

Just thinking of your waistline! lol

Hi Dave - I've been using glass microscope cover slips, which are (so sez the box) 0.13 - 0.17mm thick, in the windows of all the stock I build - even those commissions that have to be delivered by courier - for a number of years now and haven't had any problems with breakages. The glass is surprisingly flexible which may contribute to it being able to withstand more abuse than you'd expect. I've been using canopy glue to fix it from the start, and again this works very well, and after 20 minutes any excess can be scraped off with a sharpened cocktail stick. I think this gives a pretty good impression of the end result.

 

I use a diamond-tipped pencil to cut the shape required - even circular pieces for cab spectacles. A single stroke is made then flat-nosed pliers to snap along the line, though sometimes you have to nibble away at it carefully. Success rate these days is up to about 70% (it was much lower at the start), and on a lucky day (not often!) a circle of glass will pop straight out without any extra fiddling.

Hi Adrian, thanks for your advice, I think I'm going to give this a go! I imagined that the glass would be completely rigid and very delicate. You mention the use of "canopy glue" for fixing, this is something I've not heard off. I presume it's something used by aeromodellers to stick cockpit canopies on. I'll have to investigate further!

 

The coach in the link looks great by the way, that glass has a real clarity to it.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

Google Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue and you'll come up with a lot of suppliers including Amazon and ebay.

 

I bought several boxes of slips of different sizes on the net a few years ago, but Pat Legg of CPL can supply both the scriber and glass 24 x 40 x 0.13~0.17mm from stock.

 

Like cutting tiles it can take a while to get the hang of it, but perseverance pays off.

Personally, I don't mind a bit of a "misty" look to the windows

I'm sure they got pretty grubby, what with the livestock being carried,

and I'm sure the gwr weren't concerned that the cattle couldn't see too well.....

 

The groom is an animal?

That's a fine model, Dave, and comparing it with the N8 drawing and photos in part 2 of John Lewis' GWRJ horsebox series, there's very little to add. Maybe a cap on the roof for the oil well next to the light and a couple of small chains on the locking pins for the drop-down flap?

 

When I first looked at it I thought you'd been over-generous with the full-stops. Pre-1904 liveries usually had "G.W.R" without a full-stop after the R. Indeed, Lewis describes this spread out form with number plus letters in this way in Great Western Way. However, looking at the photo of an N9 in the GWRJ article (which he also describes in GWW) it does look as if there could be a full-stop after the R. If so, then well done, it looks like you've discovered yet another pre-1904 livery variant. I don't recall seeing others like this so wonder which photos you used?

 

Nick

Nick - No. 741 had all the full stops. I've sent you a PM.

Thanks, Adrian. 741 was from the same lot as 748 so that's a good indication that Dave has got it right.

 

Nick

Ah now this is good stuff. Buckjumper has already said it, but it deserves to be repeated: The restrained weathering is superb.

That's a fine model, Dave, and comparing it with the N8 drawing and photos in part 2 of John Lewis' GWRJ horsebox series, there's very little to add. Maybe a cap on the roof for the oil well next to the light and a couple of small chains on the locking pins for the drop-down flap?

 

When I first looked at it I thought you'd been over-generous with the full-stops. Pre-1904 liveries usually had "G.W.R" without a full-stop after the R. Indeed, Lewis describes this spread out form with number plus letters in this way in Great Western Way. However, looking at the photo of an N9 in the GWRJ article (which he also describes in GWW) it does look as if there could be a full-stop after the R. If so, then well done, it looks like you've discovered yet another pre-1904 livery variant. I don't recall seeing others like this so wonder which photos you used?

 

Nick

Hi Nick, i wasnt online last night so missed your query! I'm guessing that Adrian has answered your question regarding the extra full stop in his PM, but just in case and for the benefit of anyone else interested, there's a really good clear picture of this livery style on page 168 of Jim Russell's "Pictorial Record of Great Western Coaches"

 

Dave

Yep, that was the one Dave. Actually I've just realised the same photo is reproduced (though quite badly) on the front the D&S pack too.

I think a full stop after the 'R' is not only correct, but standard for that era.

 

I'm wondering about the full stop after the number though, is that right?

 

Lovely weathering.

I think a full stop after the 'R' is not only correct, but standard for that era...

It does certainly appear to be, at least for these vehicles. Strange, though, that it doesn't appear to be mentioned, or is wrongly described in the 'standard works'.

 

I'm wondering about the full stop after the number though, is that right?

According to the photo in Russell, it is, and the 1904 photo of N9 No 838 in GWRJ appears to support this.

 

Nick

 

Lovely weathering.

Definitely!

Does the kit give anything for the alarm gear? (Although I'm thinking primarily about later-style gear, rather than the 'bit of string on the side of the roof' arrangement.)

Does the kit give anything for the alarm gear? (Although I'm thinking primarily about later-style gear, rather than the 'bit of string on the side of the roof' arrangement.)

Hi Miis P, The instructions that come with the kit state the following "In latter days this end carried the vacuum alarm gear, no parts provided with the kit, but this is relatively easy to produce"

 

Not much help really, but at least it clarifies the situation!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

Dave

And CPL can provide alarm gear too.