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High Level RSH 'Husky' - Wheels.

halfwit

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A long time ago I started a High Level Kits RSH 'Husky' (click on the tags above for the relevent entries). The project stalled through a lack of wheels, the kit is designed to use 10mm Sharman wheels which are no longer available. I've decided that its time that this one was finished, so today I've taken a brief break from building Rustons to sort out an alternative wheelset.

 

I'm using Gibson Lowmac discs, slightly oversize but I can live with that, which of course need holes drilling for crankpins. I first made up a lttle jig from 1/2" x 1/8" brass strip;

 

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The throw is approx 2.5mm, to suit the cast jackshaft cranks (which aren't physically connected to the connecting rods, being gear driven from the rear axle). So the brass was marked out, then two holes were drilled, 1.9mm and .7mm, using my bench drill. I left the length of brass uncut until I finished drilling, to give me something to hold as I worked. After drilling the jig was cut down to 5mm wide. A piece of 2mm diameter steel was then polished down so that it was a sliding fit in the wheels, then the 1.9mm hole could be opened with a 5 sided broach until the axle slotted in. A drop of Loctite means that its not going anywhere.

 

I could now use the jig to drill the wheels, using a .7mm drill held in a pin vice to drill the holes - the jig keeping the drill nice and square. The front (outer) face of the wheels are profiled, so to prevent the drill from wandering I drilled into the flat rear face.

Five holes were actually drilled in each wheel, Husky wheels have four holes cast in. The jig was rotated 90 degrees then 45 degrees either side of the crankpin hole for this. Scribing lines along the edge of the jig on the back of the wheel helped line things up - its not particulary accurate though and I did end up scrapping a couple of wheels. A 1.3mm drill finished things off.

 

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The rear of the crankpin hole was then countersunk using a 2mm drill ready for the Gibson crankpins.

Balance weights are cut from .020" styrene and will be epoxied in place. Drilling the extra four holes and making balance weights is not actually necessary - the kit comes with etched inserts for the wheels - but mine are long lost...

 

A jig like this could be made from an offcut of etch if no pillar drill was available, as long as extra care is taken to keep the drill square whilst drilling the crankpin holes.

 

Paul.

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halfwit

I used Alaldite Rapid, which is the only type of epoxy that I use, for fitting the balance weights in place Harry. I've never had a problem using that particular type of glue, as long as all of the parts to be glued are clean.

 

Paul.

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mantheakis

Thank you Paul.

 

I am 'customising' a resin/plastic model of a continental diesel - adding things like an etched exhaust grill, phosphor bronze handrails, white metal cast horns and tanks, etc.

 

My biggest concern is making these little things stay put - so that they do not fall off at the slightest knock.

 

I was going to use super-glue, but I am starting to think that epoxy might be better.

 

I used to associate epoxy with heavier, bigger tasks - but your post regarding the styrene balance weights made me think again.

 

Much obliged!

 

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halfwit

I do use superglue as well, both gel and normal depending on application. I did consider it for this task but I wanted to be able to adjust the position of the weights before the glue set.

 

I would imagine that superglue would work well for attaching metal parts to a resin body, I've used it to attach resin parts to brass models in the past.

 

Paul.

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