Stock for Brent 1947 GWR

Just a thought: you might want to do something about the visible "join" on 5813's cab roof where it meets the sides. It would be something to replicate the "wrapover" look.

I will see what I can do there, unfortunately the cab roof is the only way in to fit the back head post painting and to paint the inside.

 

However looking at the photos it does look like I have quickly placed the roof on, so hopefully with a bit of care a better fit can be got

 

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One area I should have mentioned is the blackening, which is horrible. The effect isn't great and the wheels are now covered in powdery rubbish that's taking a lot of effort to shift. Wish I hadn't bothered

Hi Rich - this all looks very encouraging and I'm particularly interested to see how you get on with the conversion of the 2-8-0.

 

Regarding the 14XX, I have a bit of 'a thing' about GW smokebox door arrangements, and I was wondering whether you had considered providing new hinges on the whitemetal smokebox door? (presumably Mainly Trains replacement part?). The hinges have always seemed on that component to be slightly too far apart, when compared with the real thing (and, in fact, other models such as your 22XX).

 

I know that Cove Models used to produce a lovely turned brass door for these locos, although you had to add your own 'furniture', which isn't that hard... ;-)

PS - I do sympathise on the blackening issues, my gut instinct is always to prime, paint and then take care not to chip it!!

I will have a look at sorting 5813s smoke box door, and will look out for the cove part when I do a 14xx

 

Got half the 38xx rods separated this morning, but have forgot to order the Gibson washers to reduce down the Hornby holes, in future I will definitely switch to painting wheels!

 

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One area I should have mentioned is the blackening, which is horrible. The effect isn't great and the wheels are now covered in powdery rubbish that's taking a lot of effort to shift. Wish I hadn't bothered

I've had similar problems myself in the past! If you rinse off the wheels with water once they've been blackened, then polish the surface with a cotton wool bud, this powder problem shouldn't occour.

 

Dave

How long after blackening go you recommend this?

You can do it pretty much straight away. I leave the black on for about 30 seconds before washing and buffing. That is with Birchwood Casey blackening fluid.

Flakey/powdery results are usuallly due to using too much blackening solution, not burnishing or rinsing, or the solution being too concentrated. Don't dip things in it. Clean them first with meths, IPA, etc., when dry, rub the blackener on with a cotton wool bud. Leave for 20 to 30 seconds then wipe off and burnish with a dry bud. Repeat and rinse until you have the desired effect. Like Rich, I prefer the Birchwood Casey fluids, but the Carr's ones work much the same.

 

Nick

 

ps avoid skin contact

Hi Fatadder, yes I agree with what's been said by richbrummitt and buffalo. Rinse off after 30 seconds or so, buff with a baby bud or a soft cotton mop in a handpiece. I wear latex gloves during all the process, to prevent skin absorbtion.

 

Dave