Stock for Brent 1947 GWR

I'll be following this with interest.

Rich - have a look at the photo of the restored Radstock box here - http://www.gauge0guild.com/Gazette/Article17_9.html

 

I think that the window frames were white in GW days, they certainly were when boxes were repainted in chocolate & cream by the Western Region.

 

If you want finer-looking glazing than that provided by the windows in the kit, do remember that the real thing isn't flush glazed, and that the frames protrude in front of the glass by maybe 3/4 of an inch. They were definitely not flush glazed. An easier solution, and, dare I say it, a better result would be to use the etched GW signal box windows sold by Modelex (formerly Churchward Models). You'd need at least one pack of CM10, possibly a CM11 might also come in handy.

 

The windows in CM10 should reflect the standard GW size, and as such, should fit the new Ratio Type 7 box kit. I did find when I used the Ratio Midland box as the basis for Callow Lane, that the windows in their CM12 needed to be trimmed a bit to fit the openings in the Ratio kit, although there's nothing to stop you modifying the window aperture on the main structure a bit as well.

Re the windows, stupid error (which wouldn't have happened if ratio provided some painting instructions!)

Will repaint in white tonight...

Will also have to get some more paint shades to do the dark stone bits

 

As for glazing, my thinking was that the frame is thicker than the plastic glazing sheet. So if I stuck the sheet in the holes in the frame, it would still get that step between frame and glass.

Given 3/4 inch is about 0.25 mm in scale, I was hoping that aught to look right...

Will see how it looks, and keep the etch I'm mind if it fails.

By the way, the drill with the etched Modelex windows for me is as follows:

 

1) ensure each window sash is the correct size to fit in the signal box window aperture

2) spray front of each sash with Halfords white primer

3) cut glazing approximately to size, one piece for each window sash

4) when white primer is dry, lightly and carefully abrade rear of each window, to clean brass

5) lightly spray 'Display Mount' adhesive onto rear (brass) face of each sash. Do one sash at a time

6) carefully (with tweezers) place the sash painted-side up, on the piece of glazing

7) sandwich the glazed sash between a small piece of clean, white paper and place inside a book

8 ) weight that book down and leave the Display Mount glue to dry at least 12 - 24 hours (I am very cautious in this respect)

9) when you are happy that the Display Mount has fully dried, remove window sash from book and carefully trip glazing material round each edge with new scalpel blade (I use a No.10A)

10) any sections of the window sash that will be on view (eg. where it overlaps with the adjacent sash) - paint that edge white to match the main window colour

11) glue sash into position in the signal box. I always use thinly-applied epoxy for this, although you could, I suppose, use superglue.

 

I'd definitely avoid using any kind of MEK near the glazing, and I'd also avoid using superglue to fix the etching to the glazing, as it will almost invariably 'blob out' onto the glazed area, whereas I've never found a problem with Display Mount in this respect.

PPS - best GW pattern signal box levers are in my view, the etched ones by Smiths. Takes a little time to set up correctly, but they do look good when finished and painted. Check what the centres are between levers, this did vary in GW boxes, depending on the type of locking frame used - others more expert in this regard than I can advise if you need more info.

my thinking was that the frame is thicker than the plastic glazing sheet. So if I stuck the sheet in the holes in the frame, it would still get that step between frame and glass. Given 3/4 inch is about 0.25 mm in scale, I was hoping that aught to look right... Will see how it looks, and keep the etch I'm mind if it fails.

 

I see exactly where you are coming from here, and yes, you should be able to get a step in the glazing verses framing.

 

All I'd say, is that overall, you have to get the angle of the glazing pretty much spot-on for each of the 5 panes in each sash, and there are at least 7 sashes in a box like that... just seems to be that there's less work in using the etched variety, that's all, but good luck, either way!

PPS - best GW pattern signal box levers are in my view, the etched ones by Smiths. Takes a little time to set up correctly, but they do look good when finished and painted. Check what the centres are between levers, this did vary in GW boxes, depending on the type of locking frame used - others more expert in this regard than I can advise if you need more info.

 

I never knew Smiths did etched levers CK.I need to check those out.How many come in a pack for example.What did you use for the base with them.

Will get a post prepared over the weekend to ask about the layout of the signal box, first I need to come up with the master track plan showing the track that is off scene...

 

What is included in the Smiths bits? Does it have any castings for the other interior bits (or could you recommend a source)

 

Just had the white paint out, and those windows are now corrected.  Will have a crack at glazing them tomorrow.  Going to be very greatfull for the chopper I think!

The Smiths etch is just the levers, but they are so much finer than the whitemetal ones in the Wills or Springside detailing kits.

 

To be honest, if you use the etched levers (and Masokits also do some, but they're more suited to non-GW boxes, IIRC, whereas the Smiths ones are definitely GW in pattern), you can pretty well scratchbuild everything else for the box interior, including block shelf and instruments, Tyers No.9 token instruments (the 'usual' red ones you see on NR and many heritage railways today), furniture, cupboards, notice boards etc. If you'd rather source the furniture etc., then it would probably be the Wills or Springside interior detailing kits (whitemetal castings, I believe).

 

To keep the credibility up, Rich, I'd advise completing the overall signalling diagram (which you can do on the computer and reduce down and print off for the actual model), and then the levers can be arranged and painted in the correct configuration and colours.

Fatadder, this interior super-detailing is of the highest standard, which I fully endorse (as my tag line suggests!).

 

I wish you well with this project.

Started the glazing tonight with 2/3 of the large pains fitted

That still leaves another 60 to go, regretting this much........

Started the glazing tonight with 2/3 of the large pains fitted That still leaves another 60 to go, regretting this much........

How's this going, Rich?

Been meaning to post an update, brick work is now all painted, and I am quite pleased with the effect

Now waiting on dark stone paint before I can do the doors

 

The glazing is done for the big windows, but not yet had the patients to do the small ones.

Instead got stuck into balastimg