Wenlock's Blog

You might find there's enough bits left over to build much of a second Dean Goods!

I think you could be right, I've got a spare cab, footplate, firebox and smoke box wrapper so far!

There's that MRJ Compedium no.3 article which showed how someone did build two out of one kit, in OO, with working inside motion......

I'm not brave enough to tackle inside motion in 7mill let alone 4 mill!

Lovely neat work, Dave. Looks like a work of art already. I assume it will have roundtopped firebox?

Hi Mikkel, oh yes! Round topped firebox, polished dome and Indian Red frames. Is there any other livery lol! I'm modelling number 2467 as running circa 1905, I think you'll probably approve!

Dave

Can't wait! :-)

 

I see that the dome is matt as supplied. So you will polish it yourself I suppose. It seems difficult to get them ready-polished these days, in 4mm at least.

Yes the dome and other fittings will need to be polished. I use abrasive impregnated rubber wheels, bristle brushes and cotton mops to polish mine. You can get them through dental suppliers, or somewhere like Eileen's Emporium. Once they've been polished, I airbrush on some clear gloss varnish to stop the brass tarnishing.

 

Glad you're enjoying the build.

 

Dave

Excellent textbook stuff, Dave. I like the method of using the etched hole for the centre axle for the longitudinal setting of the outer axle hornblocks, but, in placing and setting those outer hornblocks, what screw setting do you use on them to ensure their vertical position aligns with that centre axle etched hole? Or, in other words, for wheels of a particular diameter (unknown at this constructional stage of proceedings) how much leeway above and below the kits's 'axle datum' do you allow for when eventually adjusting the buffer ride height?

Concerning the thinness of the rods, here's a good shot (and fortunately in this case an outside-framed Dean Goods) showing how thin they were, but note the boss thickness, back and front, on the crankpins: 
http://warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrls2086b.htm

For the vertical height of rods, pre-1920 Dean Goods rods are shallower than later fitted ones, and the fishbelly is less pronounced in the earlier ones. Compare 2386 c 1914 and 2347 with the preserved 2516.

Hi Miss P, the Slaters hornblocks have a screw that allows around 4mm of adjustment from full closed down to fully open. I set the screws to their halfway point on each of the hornblocks before I fix them in position. Before I cut the frames to allow for the hornblocks, I mark the horizontal centreline of the axles on the frame sides either side of the area to be cut out. I can then use these line as guides when glueing the hornblocks in position. Once the chassis is finished I set the outer hornblock screws to adjust the ride height and then undo the centre hornblock screws a couple of turns more to ensure they can rise above that datum. I hope the makes sense, I certainly found it harder to write than do!

 

Thanks for the great pictures of the loco's, they really do show how thin these rods were.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

I hope the makes sense, I certainly found it harder to write than do!

 

Not only makes sense, Dave, it made very sensible sense as well.

Well that was lucky, it's never happened before! lol

Thanks for the info on polished domes, Dave.

 

Miss P, that first photo from Leamington Spa is superb, thanks for sharing it.

I've just been drooling over that fabulous picture from Leamington Spa as well, loads of fabulous detail well worth studying.

Dave